Printable Version | Subscribe | Add to Favourites
New Topic New Poll New Reply
Author: Subject: new home built A arms
derf

posted on 24/10/05 at 01:27 PM Reply With Quote
new home built A arms

The jig was good enough that the lower arm can be fliped over and fit in either way. The 2 uppers are exactly alike. I fishmouthed all the tubes with my handy dandy trusty angle grinder, lots of fitting and a little bit of trial and error. I did screw up my first try at a lower arm (not pictured).

When I get a chance I will post up the dimensions fo the jig. These are built around using s10 steering knuckles, and this design is adjustable for camber, and caster. Toe will be adjustable with the steering rack.

before welding in the jig
before welding in the jig


before and after in jig
before and after in jig


with and without hardware
with and without hardware


a closer view of the upper arm jig
a closer view of the upper arm jig


size difference between upper and lower
size difference between upper and lower


upper and lower together
upper and lower together


The brackets clamp around the heim joint
The brackets clamp around the heim joint


Yes, I am trying to use a hi-tech looking front suspension, still undecided as to if it should be a pull rod (like steve grabber) or a pushrod. I am actually leaning very heavily toward the pull rod type.

This will save on space, be adjustable, and just look bad ass (plus it works too)





The ball joints are again from the dirt track guys, but the label marked them as pinto (us version) ball joint.

They are similar to press in units, but they screw in. The collars on my A arms are threaded too and the ball joint just screws in. I need to cut my old suspension tabs off before I can mount these, then I am going to work on mounting the shocks (which I still havn't done).

Someone I work with (who is a homebuilt nay-sayer) explained to me how the way the heims are that I can also correct any inconsistency in the chassis. My chassis is off center by less than 1/16", but he says that it will be a real big deal.I don't think that 1/16" matters.

And a pic of what the old suspension looked like:

front suspension complete
front suspension complete

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
JoelP

posted on 24/10/05 at 07:40 PM Reply With Quote
looks very nice, overall a neat solution. I would be a little concerned over the fact that both lower legs weld onto the circle that houses the ball joint, but i suppose that the ball joint will strengthen this somewhat. Personally, i would weld in a small fillet to help this area resist braking forces






View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
derf

posted on 24/10/05 at 08:09 PM Reply With Quote
Yes I agree, that topic has been covered here.

After some input from a few local "experts" I am going to box in an inch back from the circle, and also using a U shaped 1" tube weld a support brace a bit further back.

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
Peteff

posted on 24/10/05 at 08:10 PM Reply With Quote
It would look stronger with a gusset in there like the bottom mount on a standard setup. I don't think the 1/16th is going to make any difference to your car derf, I had a Mini with one wheel 3/4" further back than the other and it drove fine for everyday use.





yours, Pete

I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member

New Topic New Poll New Reply


go to top






Website design and SEO by Studio Montage

All content © 2001-16 LocostBuilders. Reproduction prohibited
Opinions expressed in public posts are those of the author and do not necessarily represent
the views of other users or any member of the LocostBuilders team.
Running XMB 1.8 Partagium [© 2002 XMB Group] on Apache under CentOS Linux
Founded, built and operated by ChrisW.