Steve Lovelock
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| posted on 12/9/05 at 07:38 PM |
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LSD shafts and seals
Two questions here:
1, see attached picture of diff and shafts. I could not get the shafts out of the diff when I stripped the donor so I cut them out complete. I would
like to separate the shafts for installation though. I realise that I can unbolt them but that leaves the previously sealed uj exposed and it
doesn't seem right. Is there another way I can do it?
2, do I need to replace the oil seals on the diff or should I just clean it and stick it in the car?
 
Rescued attachment DSCF0114.JPG
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Wadders
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| posted on 12/9/05 at 08:11 PM |
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Hi Steve
if you take out the six retaining bolts, the drive shaft comes off and so does the lobro joint, this just leaves the output shafts sticking out of the
diff, personally i would replace the oils seals and the lobro joints.
To remove the output shafts you take the back plate off the diff and remove the clips from the ends of the output shafts, they will then pull out to
allow removal/replacement of the oil seals. Most folks reckon its best to use new bolts and retaining washers when replacing the drive shafts.
Hope this helps
Al.
Originally posted by Steve Lovelock
Two questions here:
1, see attached picture of diff and shafts. I could not get the shafts out of the diff when I stripped the donor so I cut them out complete. I would
like to separate the shafts for installation though. I realise that I can unbolt them but that leaves the previously sealed uj exposed and it
doesn't seem right. Is there another way I can do it?
2, do I need to replace the oil seals on the diff or should I just clean it and stick it in the car?
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wilkingj
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| posted on 12/9/05 at 08:18 PM |
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I agree... Replace the Torx heads with Hex heads and I used 12.9 grade bolts.. cost next to nothing, and easier to get out.
use a GOOD quality torx tool as they are a bu**er to get undone. I trashed three cheap torx drivers to get mine undone... ended up using my mates
snap-on one, and it made that grunt!.
1. The point of a journey is not to arrive.
2. Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.
Best Regards
Geoff
http://www.v8viento.co.uk
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andyace
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| posted on 12/9/05 at 08:19 PM |
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The oil seals can be a b*****d to get out, the Haynes manual says to simply prise them out with a screwdriver. Probably works well on a brand new diff
and seal.
The only way I could get them out (tried screwdriver and claw hammer) was to use an oil seal puller and a tap with a hammer.
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Peteff
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| posted on 12/9/05 at 08:49 PM |
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After you've tried a torx bit cut the bolt heads off with a grinder. When you split the shafts off the remainder of the bolt will come out with
mole grips. You can swap them for allen heads then so you can get them out next time.
 
Rescued attachment DSCF0114.JPG
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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Steve Lovelock
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| posted on 13/9/05 at 05:12 PM |
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Thanks for the advice.
I have removed the 6 torx screws already, they are just hand tight so I will replace them.
Where is a good place to get the seals (& gasket for back plate I assume?) and the lobro joints?
Cheers
Steve
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NS Dev
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| posted on 13/9/05 at 11:37 PM |
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seals - Ford dealer ?£
lobro joints - local motor factor £20 each
gasket - silicone sealant, nice and cheap and works fine.
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Winston Todge
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| posted on 25/9/05 at 11:26 AM |
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Just found this lot on ebay if anyone is trying to find cheap diff oil seals...
http://www.bearingkits.co.uk/product_info.php/products_id/132
Chris.
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Steve Lovelock
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| posted on 21/10/05 at 05:56 AM |
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Ok, bit of delay as I have been side tracked by other things but I removed the back plate last night but could not get the retaining pins out to free
the shafts. Are they just difficult to free or is there a knack to it?
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