James
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 posted on 28/11/02 at 05:50 PM |
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Mounting Sierra Diff
Time to look at mounting the Sierra diff. So two more questions! :
On the Sierra it's mounted with a rubber bush at the back and four additional bolts (2 long, 2 short) at the front/top.
MK appear to mount theirs just using the front/top but a picture in The Book uses the bushed bolts as well.
Can I get away with using just the four front/top bolts or do you think it needs the rear as well?
Also, how substantial would you make the diff mounts? Mk use what appears to be two brackets off 5mm plate. Is this over engineered?
Thanks,
James
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scutter
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| posted on 28/11/02 at 05:57 PM |
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James,
Looking in a wes*****d build manual i seemed to have aquired, they use two long through bolts at the front of the diff and rubber bushed stabiliser
bracket at the back, as for the mounts i'd follow MK they know what they are doing.
Dan
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Viper
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| posted on 28/11/02 at 06:01 PM |
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The avon uses just the two long bolts, the diff is solid enough.
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stephen_gusterson
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| posted on 28/11/02 at 07:52 PM |
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if i recall, the rear mount also has something to do with the suspension subframe mounting.
I used all of them on my car, but its possible the front four are fine.
atb
steve
there is a school of thought as to if its worth rubber mounting the diff. I didnt.
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Simon
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| posted on 29/11/02 at 12:47 PM |
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James,
I bought the Avon book to see (amongst other things) how they mounted theirs (having already mounted mine).
They appear to use four 1 1/5 sq. in. (ish) bits of steel welded to chassis.
I used 3mm plate cut to similar shape as Sierra subframe diff bkt and also put in a piece for the rear rubber mounted bush (which I don't think is
really necessary - on Sierra, subframe would rotate around "axle" if bracket wasn't there.
ATB
Simon
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Viper
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| posted on 29/11/02 at 01:59 PM |
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just the two bolts you can see in the pic
 
Rescued attachment Diff.JPG
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bob
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| posted on 29/11/02 at 04:13 PM |
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Hello tim
I'm interested to know where your handbrake cables run in the avon,i'm building the indy and mine are tight over the diff.
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Viper
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| posted on 29/11/02 at 04:19 PM |
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If i fit the hanbrake lever where tiger suggest (right under my left elbow) then they do run tight to the top of the diff, something i am not over the
moon about, must come up with a plan B
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bob
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| posted on 29/11/02 at 05:01 PM |
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There is a way round this for me,i've taken a grinder to the top of diff where bolt runs through.This makes the angle for cable a bit easier,i'll
try and get a camera and post a pic.
I've replaced the long bolt with 2 allen bolts fed from the inside of cavity in diff housing.
Hope this may be of help
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Viper
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| posted on 29/11/02 at 05:10 PM |
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Thanks Bob but routing the cables doesn't worry me, what does is banging my elbow with rapid lock to lock momments
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bob
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| posted on 29/11/02 at 05:15 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Viper
Thanks Bob but routing the cables doesn't worry me, what does is banging my elbow with rapid lock to lock momments
I had this thought too,i did manage to move brackets back 1&1/2 inch but if it bugs me i'll try the MGB type lever on passenger side of tunnel after
SVA.
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Viper
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| posted on 29/11/02 at 05:25 PM |
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i think thats about the only place to put it other than under your knees transversley
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Liam
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| posted on 29/11/02 at 06:03 PM |
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I'm using all the front mounts for my diff. Just the ones vipers using ought to be fine, but why the hell not use the front ones too - just another
couple of bits of plate to weld in.
I'm using some 5mm plate cos thats what I've got.
Liam
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Liam
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| posted on 29/11/02 at 06:04 PM |
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Oh, and mine's solid mounted too (as will be my front diff). Rubber mounting is for sloppy production cars.
[Edited on 29/11/02 by Liam]
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bob
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| posted on 29/11/02 at 06:19 PM |
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James
Sorry for hijacking the post with handbrake cable stuff,i reckon you will find it all relevent as its all in the same area.
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James
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| posted on 29/11/02 at 07:02 PM |
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Thanks
Thanks for the info people.
Have spent part of this afternoon making up a couple of 5mm plates (MK style) to support it but having seen the picture Viper put up realised I could
have done a much better (lighter! solution  ).
Bob,
No problems- it's all useful stuff for some part of the build.
Viper,
Thanks for the picture- that's how I should have done it! How did you get such a great looking diff? I've pressure washed mine which helped but
it's still got a lot of oxidisation on it- did you sand blast after Gunking or something? Could I use the same process for gearbox?
What paint did you use?
Thanks,
James
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Viper
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| posted on 29/11/02 at 07:12 PM |
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went to halfords and bought a detailing brush kit (wire brushes size of a tooth brush) lots of elbow grease with gunk to remove oily crud then
pressure washed it. To remove the corrosion i then the used same elbow grease with old battery acid (be bloody carefull, don't need to tell you why)
and marigolds then another power wash, then silver smoothright...
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stephen_gusterson
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| posted on 29/11/02 at 10:57 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Liam
Oh, and mine's solid mounted too (as will be my front diff). Rubber mounting is for sloppy production cars.
[Edited on 29/11/02 by Liam]
Its likely your jag has a rubber mounted diff.
XJS v12 tuned much about 400hp apparently rip the mounts out!
atb
steve
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Viper
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| posted on 29/11/02 at 11:03 PM |
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the diff in our Tuscan challenge car is solid mounted and that produces 460bhp ...
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James
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| posted on 2/12/02 at 05:47 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Viper
went to halfords and bought a detailing brush kit (wire brushes size of a tooth brush) lots of elbow grease with gunk to remove oily crud then
pressure washed it. To remove the corrosion i then the used same elbow grease with old battery acid (be bloody carefull, don't need to tell you why)
and marigolds then another power wash, then silver smoothright...
Well, I already have the little wire brushes- although found kitchen dish brush was great for applying gunk on bellhousing.
Battery acid is an interesting idea- pity I chucked away those old batteries! Is there anything a little more environmentally/skin friendly that'll
do the trick?
Cheers for the paint advice. I looked at that in Halfords but I'd need about £20 what with undercoat, topcoat and laquer! Seems a lot just to have a
'pretty' diff!
Thanks,
James
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Viper
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| posted on 2/12/02 at 07:02 PM |
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you don't need undercoat or laquer with smoothright. (hammerright smooth) thats the why i used it..
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Viper
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| posted on 2/12/02 at 07:03 PM |
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one spray can will do your bellhousing , diff and box
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James
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| posted on 4/12/02 at 03:39 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Viper
you don't need undercoat or laquer with smoothright. (hammerright smooth) thats the why i used it..
Er, is that what I wrote? Oh yeah- what a gimp! 
What I meant was I'd looked at Halfords silver bodywork paints and those need undercoat, topcoat and laquer = +/- £20!
I bought a can of smoothright last night on way home. Then spent ages cleaning diff with gunk/brush then pressure hose.**
Atleast it's clean now but corroded to death with a sort of white powdery substance. Tried wire brush on it briefly but not much good.
Might try acid tonight. Would Nitromors be any good?
Cheers,
James
**Then spent ages cleaning up the pint of diff oil I'd spilt on garage floor! 
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interestedparty
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| posted on 4/12/02 at 03:55 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by James
Might try acid tonight.
I wouldn't, not in the garage anway, a bad trip could see all those components turn into carnivorous animals
Try a good strong spliff instead
John
As some day it may happen that a victim must be found,
I've got a little list-- I've got a little list
Of society offenders who might well be underground,
And who never would be missed-- who never would be missed!
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James
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| posted on 4/12/02 at 05:00 PM |
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quote:
I wouldn't, not in the garage anway, a bad trip could see all those components turn into carnivorous animals
Try a good strong spliff instead
John
Nice one!
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