MikeR
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| posted on 26/2/05 at 04:17 PM |
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make your own uprights / other sources
Just been reading http://www.seven-nl.tk/ web sites and saw his section on the rear of his car. His uprights look rather nifty and it gave
me an idea.......
all he needs is a steering arm and something to support the hub and he's got a front upright.
So, how difficult would it be to make a front upright, is that all there is to do?
Why aren't people making there own?
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Wadders
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| posted on 26/2/05 at 04:40 PM |
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Check out rortys website, he fabs his own uprights, when you consider it, they are only bits of metal with a stub axle attached .
Al
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phelpsa
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| posted on 26/2/05 at 05:07 PM |
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The whole upright goes around decent geometry and the correct placing of the stub-axle, so as long as you have those right you can make everything
else as you like.
Adam
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Dick Axtell
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| posted on 26/2/05 at 05:20 PM |
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Pedals!!
His pedals are worth a look, too.
Wonder how much lighter his are, than, for example, Westie-type versions?
Mind you, all that laser-cutting suggests his project isn't exactly "lo-" cost!
Work-in-Progress: Changed to Zetec + T9. Still trying!!
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Mave
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| posted on 26/2/05 at 06:32 PM |
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He already has a steering arm on his rear uprights. This way he can easily adjust toe-in and toe-out.
I believe Westfield used to make front uprights from steel too. They also looked very simple to make. Now they switched to aluminium, but I guess the
price-to-weight ratio is a bit less favourable for those new uprights. (but they ARE nice)
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clbarclay
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| posted on 26/2/05 at 07:10 PM |
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The man I bought my cortina uprights off had take to building his own simple copy of the cortina uprights for use on stock cars, which is why he had
taken to selling cortina hubs.
His design used a T made from suitable tube, with spherical bearings being bolted straight down into the long peice of the T and the short piece of
the T being the centre of the hub.
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erwe
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| posted on 26/2/05 at 08:29 PM |
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My plan was to fabricate the front uprights, very simpel actually as long as you work with jigs. Just build in camber and voila! You can use a sierra
as a donor for bearings, brakes, etc.
I use MDF for one-off things like wishbones etc.
Pedals are 1,5 kg. as on the pic
http://locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=22060&page=2
As far as the lasercutting, total cost about 200 pounds for everything, brackets, brake adaptor plates, brake.
So actually not too expensive and you can never get that quality when DIY
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Rorty
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| posted on 1/3/05 at 04:57 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Wadders
Check out rortys website, he fabs his own uprights, when you consider it, they are only bits of metal with a stub axle attached .
Al
The geometry has to be spot on, but yes, they're just bits of RHS or sheet with a small stub axle welded into them. They're very light and
strong and offer complete design flexibility.
 
Rescued attachment upright_01.jpg
Cheers, Rorty.
"Faster than a speeding Pullet".
PLEASE DON'T U2U ME IF YOU WANT A QUICK RESPONSE. TRY EMAILING ME INSTEAD!
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britishtrident
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| posted on 1/3/05 at 08:17 AM |
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At the rear lot of fwd cars use a bolt on stub axle complete with bearing unit. It bolts to the upright via a flange.
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NS Dev
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| posted on 1/3/05 at 08:18 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by MikeR
Just been reading http://www.seven-nl.tk/ web sites and saw his section on the rear of his car. His uprights look rather nifty and it gave
me an idea.......
all he needs is a steering arm and something to support the hub and he's got a front upright.
So, how difficult would it be to make a front upright, is that all there is to do?
Why aren't people making there own?
a lot of the autograssers do exactly that! I adapted the cortina one as it was quicker to do but GB Engineering make uprights for the autograss lot at
a VERY reasonable price (£250 for the uprights, alloy hubs including studs, bearings and brake discs, all fully assembled and ready to go)
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indykid
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| posted on 1/3/05 at 09:29 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
At the rear lot of fwd cars use a bolt on stub axle complete with bearing unit. It bolts to the upright via a flange.
i was looking at the cavalier the other day and thinking just that.
these in particular may be a bit too bulky to be practical though
tom
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NS Dev
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| posted on 1/3/05 at 12:56 PM |
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You can just weld the stub on, this is how GB Engineering do it! They use Vauxhall viva pattern ones, I presume they turn them themselves but
apparently you can buy them from trailer manufacturers easily with the Viva pattern to take vauxhall hubs.
not too difficult to turn a stub axle from bar anyway really I suppose!
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clbarclay
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| posted on 1/3/05 at 01:05 PM |
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You don't just use any old piece of bar for stub axles, the material used is incredably hard.
Similar to half shafts from a live axle. try staitening a bent half shaft (the half shart was not being used for intended purpose at the time) it
doesn't matter how long a lenght of scafold pipe you use the pipe just bends.
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NS Dev
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| posted on 1/3/05 at 01:13 PM |
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I didn't mean "any old bar" for obvious reasons!
The "best" material for halfshafts is apparently EN27, with a heat treatment post machining.
As for stub axles, I would use EN16T which "should" be plenty strong enough and can be hardened if necessary (but probably not in this
application)
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Rorty
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| posted on 1/3/05 at 08:24 PM |
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The steel used for stub axles shouldn't be hard or they could snap off. It's quite soft and machines very well, though it's very
tough.
A common material for stub axles is 1040 which I think is the equivilent of EN8B/080A37 in the UK. They don't need any heat treatment.
The axles I make are usually 4340 and hardened to RC50. They are incredibly strong.
Cheers, Rorty.
"Faster than a speeding Pullet".
PLEASE DON'T U2U ME IF YOU WANT A QUICK RESPONSE. TRY EMAILING ME INSTEAD!
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NS Dev
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| posted on 2/3/05 at 08:42 AM |
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I did think that EN8 would probably be "good enough" for the job for front stub axles, and I guess EN16/EN16T would be fine also (quite a
bit higher tensile), but with no need for heat treatment in either case.
Certainly EN8 is a lot cheaper!
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quattromike
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| posted on 2/3/05 at 09:11 PM |
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I was thinking of making my own rear uprights to suit my sierra bearing housings from some 20mm aluminium plate i have sitting round but i'm not
sure if they will be strong enough, What do you think?
 
Rescued attachment UPRIGHT.jpg
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MikeR
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| posted on 2/3/05 at 10:47 PM |
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Why have you made the control arm like that?
Why don't you just make two mounting points at the bottom / top of the upright at each side?
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quattromike
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| posted on 3/3/05 at 10:13 PM |
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Well the reason is MikeR is because i'm gonna try and incorporate rear wheel steer that i've seen on a few motors and thought i'd
give it a go. don't know if it'll work though
Mike.
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MikeR
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| posted on 3/3/05 at 11:58 PM |
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just realised how abrupt my question comes across - sorry.
Do you mean rear wheel steer as in controlled via a steering rack or steer on roll ?
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clbarclay
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| posted on 4/3/05 at 08:51 PM |
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That doesn't look like rear wheel steering to me. It looks more like adjustable rear wheel toe in.
[Edited on 4/3/05 by clbarclay]
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quattromike
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| posted on 4/3/05 at 08:52 PM |
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yes well it won't be a steering rack it'll be sort off roll steer but i'm undecided on how to make it work without it steering all over
the place on bumps?i was kinda thinking along the lines of some sort of track rod from the antiroll bar. Or a rod from the top wishbone to the upright
like one i seen at the autosport show like this-
 
Rescued attachment P1010053u.jpg
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clbarclay
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| posted on 4/3/05 at 08:56 PM |
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Not sure why my last post is now above the Quattromick's pic of rear hub.
[Edited on 4/3/05 by clbarclay]
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britishtrident
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| posted on 5/3/05 at 08:32 AM |
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You can buy Triumph GT/Vitesse stub axles as seperate components they are held to the upright by a single very large nut, alloy hubs in various
PCDs and bells for vented discs are available to fit.
(NB the GT6/Vitesse parts are not the same as Herald/Spitfire)
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Rorty
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| posted on 8/4/05 at 03:13 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
You can buy Triumph GT/Vitesse stub axles as seperate components they are held to the upright by a single very large nut, alloy hubs in various
PCDs and bells for vented discs are available to fit.
(NB the GT6/Vitesse parts are not the same as Herald/Spitfire)
BT, are they splined or keyed?
Cheers, Rorty.
"Faster than a speeding Pullet".
PLEASE DON'T U2U ME IF YOU WANT A QUICK RESPONSE. TRY EMAILING ME INSTEAD!
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