johnemms
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| posted on 28/8/18 at 09:02 AM |
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Camber - Digital Bevel Box eBay
Okay.. I had a eureka moment the other day..
Probably obvious to some people but here goes..
Front tyres both same pressure.
Coilovers equal.
Front ride level.
Ground not level.
Place my Gemred digital bevel box on front crossmember.
 
Description
Press Zero - chassis is now my reference level.
 
Description
Place Gemred magnetic digital bevel box on left brake disk - adjust camber to 90 degrees.
 
Description
Place Gemred magnetic digital bevel box on right brake disk - adjust camber to 90 degrees.
 
Description
Now check with tape measure that both top of wheel rims are same distance from chassis centre.
I now have Zero camber in relation to my chassis irrespective of ground level.. 
When I place the box on my brake disks - I only have to adjust each till they read
left :91.5 - centre chassis rail: 0 right: 91.5 - camber set to 1.5 Neg..
Could be talking utter rubbish but makes sense to me.. (pics for illustration only) 
Own chassis & Build - First time pass!!
"7's" aren't really "cars", they are 'experiences"
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v8kid
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| posted on 28/8/18 at 11:10 AM |
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Cunning! But do you want to set camber relative to chassis or to ground?
After all the tyre contact patch is with the ground and the tyre does not know (or probably care) where the chassis is. The chassis may or may not be
parallel with the ground and that's where the uncertainty lies.
Why not put the front wheels on a large flat sheet of something stiff and zero your level on that?
Cheers
You'd be surprised how quickly the sales people at B&Q try and assist you after ignoring you for the past 15 minutes when you try and start a
chainsaw
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Angel Acevedo
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| posted on 28/8/18 at 02:00 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by v8kid
Cunning! But do you want to set camber relative to chassis or to ground?
After all the tyre contact patch is with the ground and the tyre does not know (or probably care) where the chassis is. The chassis may or may not be
parallel with the ground and that's where the uncertainty lies.
Why not put the front wheels on a large flat sheet of something stiff and zero your level on that?
Cheers
Seconded...
The reason to have the car on level ground (or blocks) is to have both wheels at the same position through their camber curve.
If they are not level, lets say 1 or 2 degrees, one is 2° in bump, the other 2° in droop.
Depending on your suspension configuration this may or may not be much, but worth considering.
HTH.
AA
Beware of what you wish.. for it may come true....
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johnemms
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| posted on 28/8/18 at 02:02 PM |
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I did jack up the one wheel to bring chassis level...
Set it up.. Then took out jack..
Put both wheels on the ground so both loaded..
Checked it with the above method - all good either way..
Easy to try 0, 1, 1.5+ camber now..
I bought a TrackAce Laser Toe Gauge on eBay ages ago ..so only 5 mins to set tracking on any car
I have a Gunson Trakrite Camber Gauge but its crap compared to using the digital gauge..
My driveway is quite level ..but not perfectly flat..
But thought I'd pass on my Locost solution
[Edited on 28/8/18 by johnemms]
Own chassis & Build - First time pass!!
"7's" aren't really "cars", they are 'experiences"
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Angel Acevedo
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| posted on 28/8/18 at 02:49 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by johnemms
I did jack up the one wheel to bring chassis level...
Set it up.. Then took out jack..
Put both wheels on the ground so both loaded..
Checked it with the above method - all good either way..
Easy to try 0, 1, 1.5+ camber now..
I bought a TrackAce Laser Toe Gauge on eBay ages ago ..so only 5 mins to set tracking on any car
I have a Gunson Trakrite Camber Gauge but its crap compared to using the digital gauge..
My driveway is quite level ..but not perfectly flat..
But thought I'd pass on my Locost solution
[Edited on 28/8/18 by johnemms]
Cheater...
Beware of what you wish.. for it may come true....
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