hughpinder
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| posted on 30/10/17 at 01:43 PM |
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how to unlock caterham super7 wheel lock
Hi everyone
I have just bought a bit of a project car. It has caterham super 7 16" alloys with locking cover plates, but I have no key for the cover plates.
They look like just 3 holes about 3 mm dia.
They look like this: 
Do you need a special key, or is it just a matter of making something up with 3 pins at the appropriate spacing and unscrewing?
Thanks all
Hugh
ETA: picture is a bit big! Unfortunately the holes dont show up very well on less large images I have tried.
[Edited on 30/10/17 by hughpinder]
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gremlin1234
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| posted on 30/10/17 at 01:55 PM |
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easier image
 
Description
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hughpinder
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| posted on 30/10/17 at 01:57 PM |
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Thanks mr gremlin
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obfripper
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| posted on 30/10/17 at 02:11 PM |
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Some good 90° circlip pliers inserted in opposing holes usually works with a bit of a wriggle.
Replace with an ordinary allen cap head bolt, or buy a locking bolt kit for a vauxhall(assuming the old bolt is m8).
Have a look at: https://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=210414
Dave
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nick205
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| posted on 30/10/17 at 02:36 PM |
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Do you want to keep/reuse the wheels?
I've removed locking wheels nuts in the pas by MIG welding a nut or short bolt to the offending part and using thread to unscrew the nut.
Did have some photos of it, but can't find them!
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nick205
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| posted on 30/10/17 at 02:38 PM |
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One other thought - is it worth calling Caterham to see if they have a suitable key you buy?
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russbost
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| posted on 30/10/17 at 02:48 PM |
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Renault use a very similar system, I just use a pair of long nose pliers in mine, if you need a bit of extra leverage, then just put the ends of
pliers or circlip pliers in 2 of the holes & use screwdriver for leverage between the arms
I no longer run Furore Products or Furore Cars Ltd, but would still highly recommend them for Acewell dashes, projector headlights, dominator
headlights, indicators, mirrors etc, best prices in the UK! Take a look at http://www.furoreproducts.co.uk/ or find more parts on Ebay, user names
furoreltd & furoreproducts, discounts available for LCB users.
Don't forget Stainless Steel Braided brake hoses, made to your exact requirements in any of around 16 colours.
http://shop.ebay.co.uk/furoreproducts/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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hughpinder
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| posted on 30/10/17 at 02:53 PM |
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Thanks all.
I scanned the caterham site and couldn't find anything, but they may respond to a phone call. If not I'll soon make up something suitable
with the welder, or replace with M8 cap heads
Regards
Hugh
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sdh2903
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| posted on 30/10/17 at 02:59 PM |
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This is the key my lads twingo uses.
wheel
key
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ian locostzx9rc2
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| posted on 30/10/17 at 03:03 PM |
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As said good pair of long nose or circlip pliers or hammer and chisel and replace them with a nice Allen bolt
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craigdiver
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| posted on 30/10/17 at 04:57 PM |
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If it doesn’t budge, rather than welding on to it you could drill a hole in the centre and use an easy-out.
If it ain't broken, fix it anyway (just because).
Building - BMW powered Haynes Roadster/442E hybrid.
Volvo C30 T5 Polestar
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 30/10/17 at 06:12 PM |
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If it doesn't budge then use a small pin punch and a hammer
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madteg
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| posted on 30/10/17 at 06:46 PM |
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Drill down the centre wit 10mm and then a 13mm, when the drill hits the chamfer the nut will snap off. remove thread with mole grips
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hughpinder
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| posted on 1/11/17 at 09:36 AM |
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Well thanks for the replies. I don't know when the wheels were last off, but its like the locks are welded in - have snapped some allen keys I
was using as the 'pins' . Have dosed with looooads of penetratign fluid and will let you know how it goes. I don't really want to
try and drill them out if I can avoid it.
Hugh
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craigdiver
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| posted on 1/11/17 at 09:44 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by hughpinder
Well thanks for the replies. I don't know when the wheels were last off, but its like the locks are welded in - have snapped some allen keys I
was using as the 'pins' . Have dosed with looooads of penetratign fluid and will let you know how it goes. I don't really want to
try and drill them out if I can avoid it.
Hugh
I think, as madteg suggested, drill the head off it then remove the wheel, you will still have a good bit of thread to grab after soaking it (and
leaving overnight) with your favourite penetrating release oil (WD40 etc.)
If it ain't broken, fix it anyway (just because).
Building - BMW powered Haynes Roadster/442E hybrid.
Volvo C30 T5 Polestar
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hughpinder
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| posted on 1/11/17 at 10:02 AM |
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I suspect you are right - I am quire surprised that they are not hardened so that they cannot be drilled!
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 1/11/17 at 06:12 PM |
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I regularly come across this problem and as I posted use a pin punch,works every time.
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hughpinder
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| posted on 2/11/17 at 09:01 AM |
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I will have a go again at the weekend - pin punch and drills are at the ready!
Thanks everyone
[Edited on 2/11/17 by hughpinder]
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loggyboy
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| posted on 2/11/17 at 09:21 AM |
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As mentioned, an old pair of needle nose that you dont mind bending a little (and plenty of lube)!
Mistral Motorsport
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bonzoronnie
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| posted on 2/11/17 at 09:56 AM |
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At the risk of teaching a hen to suck eggs.
It may help if you give them a couple of sharp taps on the head of them with a hammer & large punch.
This will often help to release the corrosion bond.
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