andy9391
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 posted on 23/12/04 at 02:38 PM |
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modifiying searra uprights
just a quick note im building a locost based on the collins chassis,using searra uprights and maxi lower ball joints to make the ball joints fit ive
bought some tapperd reamers from Axminster tool@s,www.axminster.co.uk part number RDO13066 cost £4.14 took me 30 mins to ream out both lower holes and
the ball joints fit spot on.i have also made my front bracket tube in line and then modifide my wishbones to suit,any comments would be greatly
recieved
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RPS
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| posted on 23/12/04 at 05:49 PM |
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I will be interested to hear what others think, but don't these tapers need to be machined accurately to be durable and safe? Can you get them
accurate enough with a hand held tool?
If you can, well done to you. It will save a lot of hassle and expense.
The website link looks useful.
Cheers,
RPS
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andy9391
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 posted on 23/12/04 at 07:57 PM |
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as long as you keep a uniform pressure on the reamer and check the fit with engineers blue to find any high spots you can get a good fit,also if you
rig the upright in a drill press you can get even pressure,you just need to mesure how much thread you have sticking out to get them equal
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NS Dev
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| posted on 23/12/04 at 10:47 PM |
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It'll be fine!! That sounds fine to me. There is no black magic to reaming a couple of tapers out slightly, they will fit a treat, and the steel
forging of the upright is ductile enough that any high spots will be pushed away as the tapers are torqued up anyway.
Don't worry!!!!
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NS Dev
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| posted on 23/12/04 at 10:49 PM |
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Just to upset a few folk as I have had a beer or two now..................I would'nt worry at all about the reaming, but I would worry about
using Sierra uprights!!!! They give sh1t geometry for the front suspension!!!
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DEAN C.
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| posted on 26/12/04 at 06:52 PM |
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I thought the geometry would be more affected by the positioning of the wishbone balljoints,have another beer you'll see straighter 
Once I've finished a project why do I start another?
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wilkingj
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| posted on 26/12/04 at 10:28 PM |
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I just had a look at those reamers... How do you know they are the correct taper gradient for the tpaer on the ball joint?
There is no data on the website to how many degress it is set at.
1. The point of a journey is not to arrive.
2. Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.
Best Regards
Geoff
http://www.v8viento.co.uk
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 27/12/04 at 07:03 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by wilkingj
I just had a look at those reamers... How do you know they are the correct taper gradient for the tpaer on the ball joint?
There is no data on the website to how many degress it is set at.
Was going to ask the same question. Those reamers were not designed for making accurate tapers, but are made for enlarging holes in thin sheet metal.
If they just happen to have exactly the right taper for the maxi balljoints then they are a very inexpensive solution (proper taper reamers are v.
expensive). However, it would be a big coincidence if they are.
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keith2lp
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| posted on 27/12/04 at 09:00 PM |
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Tapers
Hi
I searched for a tapered reamer to do my sierra uprights but I was unable to find one at the correct angle of the shelf but I could of had one ground
(expensive).
As I have access to a machine shop I made a cutter from tool steel and then set them up in a pillar drill. This worked fine and I have since done some
by hand that Luego had not cut deep enough.
If any one lives near southampton and needs them cutting I may be able to do them for you.
Keith
[Edited on 27/12/04 by keith2lp]
 
Rescued attachment car 007.jpg
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Rorty
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| posted on 28/12/04 at 03:20 AM |
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keith2lp, nice Locost work, well done.
UK supplier of taper reamers (they can supply just about any reamer).
Some interesting reamer information here and here.
American site, but
correct automotive taper reamers for Ford and GM (Vauxhall and Opel).
You want more reamers?
Cheers, Rorty.
"Faster than a speeding Pullet".
PLEASE DON'T U2U ME IF YOU WANT A QUICK RESPONSE. TRY EMAILING ME INSTEAD!
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NS Dev
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| posted on 29/12/04 at 12:33 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by DEAN C.
I thought the geometry would be more affected by the positioning of the wishbone balljoints,have another beer you'll see straighter
Exactly my point!!
Look where the top balljoint is in relation to the bottom one, the Sierra upright was designed for the macpherson strut, a system which effectively
has a top wishbone of infinite length. The Average locost wishbone could NOT be accused of having infinite length!!!!!!!!
I know every man and his dog are building cars around these uprights but the geometry with the cortina upright is much better (still not ideal I will
concede).
The sierra ones are used cos they are cheaper and more readily available. If I had not used Cortina uprights, I would have used manta/chevette/viva
etc etc ones, i.e. ones from a car with double wishbones like the Cortina, or fabricated some using Viva pattern stub axles, available from trailer
manufacturers very cheaply. The tapers on these fit those of Sherpa van tie-rods, instead of the transit tie-rod ends used with Cortina uprights.
Anyhoo................. I can whittle on all I like on here but that doesn't get my car built and I have a "dry/not dry sump"
conundrum to whittle about in my garage!!!
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DEAN C.
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| posted on 29/12/04 at 05:28 PM |
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I know what you mean,I had a dry ,not dry sump system ,both within the space of a couple of seconds on the hairpin at Elvington!
Just fitted my mark 2 shortened sump,if that doesn't work it will then get a proper dry sump set up,just hoping I dont have to go to that
expense though.
A slight pause in oil supply has cost me about £200 in bits 
Once I've finished a project why do I start another?
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andybod
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| posted on 14/1/05 at 09:29 AM |
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did this reamer from axminster tool,s work o.k trying to help tks in spain with some info on getting his hub,s reamed out does anyone have any further
info on ball joint taper required thank,s
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tks
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| posted on 17/1/05 at 09:32 PM |
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Yeah,
could some help me a bit?
i have really now idea wich reamer to buy,
and by Axminster i can't find the tool mentioned above
RDO 13066
some one could help me a bit pleaze?
Tks
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tks
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| posted on 17/1/05 at 09:38 PM |
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Ok,
i'm gonna buy the reamer
and this is what i'm going to do to make him ready for my drilling machine
i will buy a bolt M8 x 65 Any grade.. (non full threaded)
will drill a vertical hole in the reamer, tap it to M8,
cut the head of the bolt
turn in it in..while reaming it will only go further down soow thats not a problem....
finished maked a reamer..
many thanxs for the locost guy..
TKS
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Rorty
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| posted on 17/1/05 at 10:20 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by tks
i'm gonna buy the reamer
and this is what i'm going to do to make him ready for my drilling machine
i will buy a bolt M8 x 65 Any grade.. (non full threaded)
will drill a vertical hole in the reamer, tap it to M8,
cut the head of the bolt
turn in it in..while reaming it will only go further down soow thats not a problem....
finished maked a reamer..
many thanxs for the locost guy..
TKS
If I understand you correctly, you only want to insert the M8 bolt into the reamer so you have a hex head with which to turn it.
If that's the case, well, for a start, the shank of the reamer will be hardened, maybe not as much as the cutting edges, but still bloody hard.
Too hard to drill.
Anyway, it would be much easier to use a T-handle tap wrench (see below) or a T-handle Jacobs chuck. You'd have more control with a T-grip than
with a spanner or ratchet.
Cheers, Rorty.
"Faster than a speeding Pullet".
PLEASE DON'T U2U ME IF YOU WANT A QUICK RESPONSE. TRY EMAILING ME INSTEAD!
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SilverFox
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| posted on 20/12/05 at 12:39 AM |
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Taper - sorry again
Have I measured right, i.e. measured the maxi b/joint as best I could and got Large dia = 17.3 mm (.681", small = 15.5 (.612" over
length of approx 14.8 (.582".
My simple math suggests this a taper of 3/4" per foot. e.g. 17.3-15.5= 1.8 mm Divide by /2 = 0.9 mm to get change on one side and then length of
14.8/0.9 equals about 1:16 which equates to 3/4" per foot.
Rorty provided a measure once of 17.3 mm for the large end with 7.15 deg. I can only replicate Rorty's 17.3. Given that I always trust
Roty's data I must determine where I am wrong
This thread has some good stuff, but I can't reconcile the various numbers to terminolgy on both sides of the pond.
The Chadwick & Trefethen site noted by Rorty has a size 2, #85020 with 1 1/2" per foot and an angle that agrees with Rorty at 7.15.
So from all accounts it should be 1 1/2" taper - so where am I out to lunch grrrrrhh
Andy9391 references a number RDO13066 but I would need some other info inorder to cross reference,
I still need the reamer.
Cheers for any input.
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 20/12/05 at 02:41 AM |
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I may be wrong but I think that when the angle of a taper is specified, it is the total angle formed by the taper, i.e. double what you have
calculated.
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SilverFox
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| posted on 21/12/05 at 01:10 AM |
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Good point. So if I use the total, it would be say 15.5 divided by 1.8 = approx 8. This gives 1:8 or 1 1/2" per foot.
Will visit the tool store ans see what they have.
Thx
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scotmac
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| posted on 27/12/05 at 08:48 AM |
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Rather than the sierra or the cortina uprights, wouldn't it be better to use a pinto/mustang-II uprights? Racers/rodders have used them for
years, and they have good geometry: 7% KPI. and w/ their good offset, i believe we can a pretty good scrub axis. They are also readily available for
CHEAP, since soo many people have used them for soo long.
[Edited on 27/12/05 by scotmac]
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locoboy
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| posted on 27/12/05 at 06:24 PM |
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what do MK and the likes use to modify them on an exchange basis?
ATB
Locoboy
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locoboy
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| posted on 9/1/06 at 12:12 PM |
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Any one got any clues?
Im also after a definative answer on the taper size for a maxi ball joint so i can go to my local machine shop and het them to ream the upright out
for me.
Ta.
ATB
Locoboy
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Gav
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| posted on 9/1/06 at 01:22 PM |
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Why not visit you local machine shop with the maxi balljoint in hand so they can look at it?
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scotmac
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| posted on 10/1/06 at 03:07 AM |
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No comment on the pinto/mustang-II stuff??? Is it not very prevalent in the UK??? Sure is in the US.
Also, is it possible to use racing based wide-5 stuff...ie, like the Wilwood starlite 55 hubs? What uprights would u use w/ those hubs on a
locost???
[Edited on 10/1/06 by scotmac]
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seventhheaven
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| posted on 4/2/13 at 10:34 AM |
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Taper Angle
I've done the sums too. Rorty and the guys above are right (7.15). I've bought a stack of recommended hand reamers and measured them (some
were over a degree out!). Every one was wrong and only one fitted a drill chuck. Hand Reaming? Come on guys.... You're only kidding
yourselves.
Even when mounted in a good quality pillar drill, I still had to 'true' it with a Dial Test Indicator. That took 30 minutes as it's
not that easy doing it on flutes and I'm out of practice.
The correct angle is indeed 7.15 (1.5 inches per foot). I'm afraid you'll probably have to import your reamer, it's the cheapest way
(£60). Then you'll need a large drill press or mill to perform the reaming itself. There are no half measures here, IT'S A BALL JOINT!
Also double check your top hat / mushroom adaptors. The pair I bought were 0.15 out. He's since stopped selling them.
For more info, see my reply on this thread 'Taper
Angle'.
'Chadwick Reamers'. If you speak to them, they are available in several
qualities and I can definately say they performed perfectly for me. Unlike others they also fit large drill presses although if you speak to them
nicely, they might make one with a threaded end for a milling machine collet/chuck.
4wd 3.9 Rover V8 Locost 7 - Super 7th Heaven
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