AntonUK
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posted on 20/2/16 at 07:57 PM |
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More Brake Problems
At the point I thought I was nearly finished a rather annoying issue has arisen 2 days before my engine tune.
My brakes are sticking, not entirely but enough to be an issue. System is a twin master setup, in typical front/back arrangement via a bias bar on the
pedal.
When the pedal is used the brakes will bind, if you release some pressure via the bleed nipples (either side) both calipers release. Same issue front
and rear.
Calipers are rebuilt (professionally), masters were re-built by me (ive striped one down to check i did it right) flexie hoses are new. rear discs are
new, all pads new.
The masters are returning fully.
Any Ideas?
Description
Description
Description
Description
Build Photos Here
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adithorp
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posted on 20/2/16 at 08:07 PM |
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When the pedal is released is there slight free play in the master cylinder push rods? If not it will hold residual pressure as the pistons
can't return far enough to uncover the holes to the reservoirs. It's fairly common mistake to make. Ifg that is the cause, adjust the rods
and it should be OK
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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AntonUK
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posted on 20/2/16 at 08:17 PM |
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The rods are tight, but are hard up against the front washer/stop.
Can the rods return too far?
Build Photos Here
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Smoking Frog
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posted on 20/2/16 at 08:36 PM |
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Double check the master cylinders are fully returned, with a minute amount of play. Being the calliper pistons return when pressure is released
I'd say the problem is with master cylinder.
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theprisioner
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posted on 20/2/16 at 11:27 PM |
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Is that seal in last picture correct way round?
http://sylvabuild.blogspot.com/
http://austin7special.blogspot.co.uk/
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AntonUK
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posted on 21/2/16 at 12:09 AM |
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quote: Originally posted by theprisioner
Is that seal in last picture correct way round?
It matches the diagrams I have.
I have found that the retaining washer had a beveled inside which appears to be the wrong way round. May be the issue, but i doubt it. I shall try
again tomorrow.
Can someone confirm how much "play" there should be in the rod?
Build Photos Here
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Macbeast
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posted on 21/2/16 at 04:28 AM |
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Just enough to be detectable.
I'm addicted to brake fluid, but I can stop anytime.
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AlexXtreme
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posted on 21/2/16 at 09:23 AM |
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When I was looking at moving my brake pedals forwards I was told that I would need to cut down the master cylinder rods to get them to work
effectively and to make certain that I had enough play to get the brakes to release... this sounds like your issue but could be wrong!
Alex
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big-vee-twin
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posted on 21/2/16 at 10:52 AM |
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You need large penny washers between the pedal tube and the clevis to stop it binding and there should be a slight gap in there too, the pushrods need
to be square to the longitudinal axis of the cylinder and as previously said there needs to be play at the end of the rod travel.
All this Will ensure they come fully back.
Have a read at this linky
Duratec Engine is fitted, MS2 Extra V3 is assembled and tested, engine running, car now built. IVA passed 26/02/2016
http://www.triangleltd.com
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AntonUK
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posted on 21/2/16 at 01:56 PM |
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So I found the issue, although the rods were fully returning the retaining washer on the master cylinders was the wrong way round. Spent this morning
swapping them round and bingo working brakes.
Thanks all for your help as always
Build Photos Here
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