Shooter63
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| posted on 25/10/15 at 04:29 PM |
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1/2 inch bolts?
Does anybody know where I can get some of the above bolts. They have to be grade 8.8. I went to change the rear suspension on the car today and the
ones in there have decided that they like the metalastic bushes and won't let go.
Shooter
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Oddified
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| posted on 25/10/15 at 04:34 PM |
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1/2"... unf i'm guessing, not as easy to get hold of as they once were. Either a good local nuts/bolts place or ebay, just make sure
they're a reputable distributor.
Ian
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Ugg10
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| posted on 25/10/15 at 04:38 PM |
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Give Namrick in Hove a call.
---------------------------------------------------------------
1968 Ford Anglia 105e, 1.7 Zetec SE, Mk2 Escort Workd Cup front end, 5 link rear
Build Blog - http://Anglia1968.weebly.com
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gremlin1234
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| posted on 25/10/15 at 04:44 PM |
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grade 8.8 is a metric grade, you will need the equivalent imperial grade
try
http://www.imperialnutsandbolts.com/fasteners-and-fittings/hex-head-high-tensile-fasteners-grade-5-self-colour-/u-n-f-ht-bolts-and-set-screws-grade-5/
u-n-f-ht-set-screws-grade-5/cat_219.html
link
see also this guide.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/gds/Just-what-is-a-grade-5-or-grade-8-bolt-/10000000011216043/g.html
edit made link work
[Edited on 25/10/15 by gremlin1234]
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Minicooper
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| posted on 25/10/15 at 05:30 PM |
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I have half inch bolts with 8.8 stamped on them, so they are available somewhere, but where I haven't a clue
David
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joneh
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| posted on 25/10/15 at 05:46 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Ugg10
Give Namrick in Hove a call.
I gave Namrick a call last year for the same bolts. They gave me details for Arun Fastners in Arundle who had them on the shelf. Unf high tensile.
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mark chandler
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| posted on 25/10/15 at 06:59 PM |
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When I needed some I went to the nearest agricultural supplier, plenty of old tractors and farming implements still use imperial bolts.
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hizzi
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| posted on 25/10/15 at 09:56 PM |
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clarik engineering supplies, they have ebay shop and website of give rick a call, very helpfull , all my consumables nuts bolts etc come from them.
i bought the long bolts for my mx5 hubs from them for about £3 each
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40inches
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| posted on 25/10/15 at 10:56 PM |
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May be some here
http://stores.ebay.co.uk/astleycomponents/HT-Hex-Bolts-Setscrews-UNF-/_i.html?_fsub=2785715014&_sid=684907314&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322
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Theshed
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| posted on 26/10/15 at 11:07 AM |
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Why not buy a length of good (EN16 or EN19) 1/2" steel rod and put a thread on each end? You could choose between M12 or 1/2 UNF. If you get
stuck drop me a line and I will make some for you if you do the measuring.
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Oddified
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| posted on 26/10/15 at 04:13 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Theshed
Why not buy a length of good (EN16 or EN19) 1/2" steel rod and put a thread on each end? You could choose between M12 or 1/2 UNF. If you get
stuck drop me a line and I will make some for you if you do the measuring.
I wouldn't entertain that on my own car, especially using M12 rather than the 1/2" for numerous reasons.
Ian
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Theshed
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| posted on 26/10/15 at 05:32 PM |
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Err why is that? Not sure you have thought this through. If the bar is threaded both ends then the thread is a matter of choice. I tend to prefer UNF
as it is generally finer that standard metric threads.
The bar itself can be of whatever grade you choose. All bolts start as a bit of bar! If you are getting sniffy about a thread cut on a lathe as
opposed to a rolled thread then each to their own - I make my own head studs. Picture of a home made stud just to make the point!
 
Description
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Oddified
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| posted on 26/10/15 at 07:13 PM |
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Keep your hair on! lol 
I just prefer a smooth shank as long as possible through suspension/bushes and not a thread. As for replacing 1/2" with M12, fine if you want
the geometry to be different every time it's taken apart and re-assembled!.
No problem with screw cutting in the lathe over rolled threads, i do it all the time when i need to 
Ian
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Theshed
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| posted on 26/10/15 at 07:37 PM |
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Hair long gone
Actually I had assumed that these were long bolts. I was not suggesting putting 12mm bar in place of a 1/2" bolt but putting a 12mm thread or
UNF thread on each end(not the middle) of a 1/2" bar. No geometry issues at all.
It seems we misunderstood each other.
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Theshed
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| posted on 26/10/15 at 07:43 PM |
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Sorry I should have said that you can get 1/2" Aircraft spec bolts from LAS Aero (it will google) - search the hardware section - they have tips
on the part number for length etc - excellent mail order service
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Shooter63
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| posted on 26/10/15 at 08:48 PM |
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Thanks for all the pointers guys, one of the companies mentioned is only a few miles from me so I'll give them a bell.
Shooter
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alfas
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| posted on 28/10/15 at 09:01 AM |
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you are sure its 1/2 inch and not M12 fine pitch thread? 8.8 indicates metric
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CosKev3
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| posted on 28/10/15 at 09:30 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Oddified
I just prefer a smooth shank as long as possible through suspension/bushes and not a thread.
Ian
As above,perhaps read things properly before posting!!!
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mcerd1
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| posted on 28/10/15 at 09:52 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by alfas
you are sure its 1/2 inch and not M12 fine pitch thread? 8.8 indicates metric
Normally, but some bolt manufacturers will make UNF, UNC or even BSW bolts from 8.8 stock bar.
(the standard for BSW bolts is so old it doesn't even give a grade for the material just a strength and elongation - works out about a 4.7ish
on the ISO898 grades)
Also while there is nothing wrong with cut threads for most applications (I've got some on my car), it is still preferable to use rolled threads
for any highly stressed bolts or ones that are likely to suffer from fatigue.
The main benefits being the better corner radii (which can be machined on a cut thread with alot of extra work) and the cold formed threads after heat
treatment give lots of benefits to stress flow and fatigue strength. (ARP and the likes take this to extremes)
So if there is an option I'd pick the rolled thread every time 
[Edited on 28/10/2015 by mcerd1]
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