davidimurray
|
| posted on 22/1/12 at 05:19 PM |
|
|
Sierra Master Cylinders - confused
Now the car is whizzing around - I've had chance to try the brakes and following a careful technical evaluation I can confirm they are cr*p
Despite lots of bleeding the pedal does nothing for the first half of its travel. I'm guessing I need a new master cylinder. My original one had
a black plastic tag on it.
This is the master cylinder I have :-
 
Description
And this is what Brake parts direct list -
 
Description
Looking at the firstline catalogue they only list 1 master cylinder type.
I am guessing the first Girling master cylinder on the brake parts link is what I am after. Can anyone confirm that is the correct one?
Cheers
Dave
Gallery 1 http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.116893465324.130778.601005324
Gallery 2 http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.245243755324.181913.601005324&l=a9831a9319
Gallery 3 http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.440671625324.232627.601005324&l=3f0d42c523
Gallery 4 http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.490098255324.297598.601005324&l=efb083b7df
Gallery 5 http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150244028550325.366987.601005324&l=583fd5cd3a
Gallery 6 http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150550640070325.430417.601005324&type=3&l=fe779b358c
Duratec Engine Swap https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10152527759580325.1073741828.601005324&type=1&l=40aae5e72f " target="_blank"> https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10152527759580325.1073741828.601005324&type=1&l=40aae5e72f
|
|
|
|
|
macc man
|
| posted on 22/1/12 at 05:32 PM |
|
|
Have you made sure the rear brakes have no air still in them. You normally have to remove them and invert them to bleed them. Just a thought.
|
|
|
whitestu
|
| posted on 22/1/12 at 05:41 PM |
|
|
I wouldn't replace it with a Sierra MC as 22mm is a bit big as it is designed to be used with a servo.
I believe there is a Fiesta one that is 19mm that is a direct swap. I used a FIAT 19mm one.
Stu
|
|
|
rusty nuts
|
| posted on 22/1/12 at 05:42 PM |
|
|
What type of rear brakes do you have? If drums then make sure the handbrake cable adjuster is backed off , remove brake drum and manually adjust the
auto adjuster one click at a time, refit brake drum and check for binding, repeat until brakes just start to drag and release adjuster one click .
Repeat on second side and readjust handbrake . Bleed brakes
For disc type brakes as already suggested you may have to take off the calipers , Slacken the handbrake cable, place a block of wood between the
pads , turn the caliper until bleed nipple is at the top and then bleed. Sometimes it helps to manually adjust the piston by rotating it to reduce the
clearance between the pads and the disc.
If you are using rubber hoses you can clamp each one and try the brakes releasing each clamp in turn to see which brake is causing the problem
|
|
|
davidimurray
|
| posted on 22/1/12 at 05:50 PM |
|
|
The rears are drums and I've tried bleeding in various ways, including 2-man, easibleed etc. I must have put over a litre through each nipple
trying to bleed them. I have also tried bleeding at the m/c end and at the brake pressure switch
The pedal itself doesn't do anything for the first half of the travel, then it starts to kick in and just as the pedal hits the bulkhead the
front wheels will lock.
Gallery 1 http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.116893465324.130778.601005324
Gallery 2 http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.245243755324.181913.601005324&l=a9831a9319
Gallery 3 http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.440671625324.232627.601005324&l=3f0d42c523
Gallery 4 http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.490098255324.297598.601005324&l=efb083b7df
Gallery 5 http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150244028550325.366987.601005324&l=583fd5cd3a
Gallery 6 http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150550640070325.430417.601005324&type=3&l=fe779b358c
Duratec Engine Swap https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10152527759580325.1073741828.601005324&type=1&l=40aae5e72f " target="_blank"> https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10152527759580325.1073741828.601005324&type=1&l=40aae5e72f
|
|
|
ashg
|
| posted on 22/1/12 at 10:30 PM |
|
|
had the same on mine it was the master cylinder. dont buy from brakes int. i got a new mc off them and it was goosed from day 1. called them and
they weren't interested in replacing the duff one they sent me. their attitude was if i had fitted it then i had broke it.
Anything With Tits or Wheels Will cost you MONEY!!
Haynes Roadster (Finished)
Exocet (Finished & Sold)
New Project (Started)
|
|
|
laptoprob
|
| posted on 23/1/12 at 07:59 AM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by davidimurray
The rears are drums and I've tried bleeding in various ways, including 2-man, easibleed etc. I must have put over a litre through each nipple
trying to bleed them. I have also tried bleeding at the m/c end and at the brake pressure switch
The pedal itself doesn't do anything for the first half of the travel, then it starts to kick in and just as the pedal hits the bulkhead the
front wheels will lock.
SEE HERE
I use the Sierra one with drums at the rear.
The pedal is rock hard and only travels a short way but the feel is rubbish.
I`m guessing there is air in there or the drums may need adjusting.
Either way i`d swap it out anyway while your on the case for something with a smaller piston diameter.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ajlF4nWJtGA
|
|
|
.jpg)
