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Author: Subject: Handbrake cable routing
speedyxjs

posted on 28/3/10 at 04:49 PM Reply With Quote
Handbrake cable routing

Just wanted to check this is ok before going on the do the other side (taken me 3 hrs to do this side!)

Handbrake cable routing
Handbrake cable routing


The cable doesnt touch anything when tought and the wiring and fuel line wont be in the way obviously





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AdamR

posted on 28/3/10 at 04:59 PM Reply With Quote
Sorry to say, but I'm not convinced about routing the cable through the spring. There will be a lot of friction and before too long you'll wear through the spring and/or the cable. Unless there's something more clever going on that I can't make out that is!

Can't you use a cable with an outer sheath, like most OEM cables?

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AdamR

posted on 28/3/10 at 05:02 PM Reply With Quote
Also, with the cable taught, I think you'll be pulling on the brakes whenever the suspension droops and probably wont be able to generate any braking force when the suspension in in compression! That's why you need a cable outer - so that the cable has something to pull against whilst remaining loose and flexible. Definitely needs a rethink IMO.

[Edited on 28/3/10 by AdamR]

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speedyxjs

posted on 28/3/10 at 05:17 PM Reply With Quote
Well the cable is an allegro cable and i had to do alot of work to make it fit as the clevis was much bigger that the original cable.

Can anyone suggest another cable with a clevis that has an outer sheath?





How long can i resist the temptation to drop a V8 in?

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AdamR

posted on 28/3/10 at 05:24 PM Reply With Quote
Got any close-up pics of the clevis & caliper?
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speedyxjs

posted on 28/3/10 at 05:43 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by AdamR
Got any close-up pics of the clevis & caliper?


No but as the original handbrake cables are expensive, i have welded a steel strip to the handbrake mechanism to extend it out of the hub so anything that would fit an 8mm hole would work.





How long can i resist the temptation to drop a V8 in?

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AdamR

posted on 28/3/10 at 06:55 PM Reply With Quote
The key thing is that your cable outer goes all the way to the hub/caliper. The end of the outer normally pushes into a bracket with a suitably sized hole in it. The outer and it's brackets then oppose the force applied to the cable without the need to have the cable taught (which wont work as described above). Its just the same as the brake or gear cables on a bike.

Sorry, my powers of description are failing me a bit. This pic may/may not help, showing the end of the outer in it's bracket with the inner attached to the lever):



Good luck!


[Edited on 28/3/10 by AdamR]

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speedyxjs

posted on 28/3/10 at 07:08 PM Reply With Quote
Ok, thanks Adam.

Can i ask what cable you have used?





How long can i resist the temptation to drop a V8 in?

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AdamR

posted on 28/3/10 at 07:12 PM Reply With Quote
No probs. I've used a Sierra cable. There's some pics of my set-up on this other thread from today: http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=132860
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speedyxjs

posted on 28/3/10 at 07:19 PM Reply With Quote
Thanks. I have a ford escort cable in the garage i may try and weld the original clevis's to and see if i can make that work.





How long can i resist the temptation to drop a V8 in?

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speedyxjs

posted on 29/3/10 at 04:50 PM Reply With Quote
Iv just tried the Escort cable and its way too long. Il have a look on fleabay see what i can find (sierra cables seem quite expensive so thats last resort)





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