DIY Si
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 posted on 11/3/10 at 10:40 PM |
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How much play is acceptable in a steering rack
Evening all.
Due to having noticed a bit of play in the steering wheel of late, I thought I'd start having a look into it. On first appearance I thought it
was the sierra bearing on the triangular part of the column. Having brought a new proper bearing to upgrade this, it now turns out that the play is in
the rack itself.
When the input shaft is turned, it tries to move itself in and out of the rack before moving the rack sideways.
Can this be eliminated? Is it that much of an issue for the time being?
Or is it quicker t just fit a new quick rack and be done with it?
“Let your plans be dark and as impenetratable as night, and when you move, fall like a thunderbolt.”
Sun Tzu, The Art of War
My new blog: http://spritecave.blogspot.co.uk/
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mediabloke
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| posted on 11/3/10 at 10:49 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by DIY Si
Can this be eliminated? Is it that much of an issue for the time being?
Hello Si.
I'd be interested to know, too. Assuming the rack / pinion aren't worn, is it not just a case of tightening the plastic collar on the top
of the joint where the pinion meets the rack?
[scratches head and waits for more knowledgeable input]
Francis.
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austin man
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| posted on 11/3/10 at 10:50 PM |
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on the revers side of the input shaft there is a bung which is threaded into the boss in which it sits, by tightening (screwing this in ) it applies
pressure to a spring which in turn pushes a plastic /nylon bush against the rack this in turn takes out play. its worth a try it can be a pig to make
it move I ground an old socket down to use to slacken the bung as it is a special tool thatis required. Oh and they are brittle I smashed mine and had
to have another made out of nylon
Life is like a bowl of fruit, funny how all the weird looking ones are left alone
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NigeEss
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| posted on 11/3/10 at 10:57 PM |
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"13mm for rack and pinion steering.
Note: Where there are several joints between the steering wheel and the rack,
movement up to 48mm on a 380mm diameter wheel may be accepted."
See http://www.motuk.co.uk/manual_220.htm for more details.
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britishtrident
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| posted on 12/3/10 at 08:12 AM |
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Sounds like the pre-load on the damper needs increased, trick in adjusting is getting rid of most of the play in the centre but not making it too
tight as to make the steering bind at full lock. it could also be a worn bearing in the pinnion.
Keep in mind the splines on the UJ's are notorious for developing movement because the supplied clamping bolts are thread bound ---- replace
with fully threaded setscrew and use Loctite.
It also surprising how much play can develop between the steering wheel and the splines on the sterring column, again the cure is a dab of loctite
and a good tighten up.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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AndyGT
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| posted on 12/3/10 at 01:01 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
Keep in mind the splines on the UJ's are notorious for developing movement because the supplied clamping bolts are thread bound ---- replace
with fully threaded setscrew and use Loctite.
Could you not just use some washers in this case? This way the strength in the bolts are retained and ultimately: "it will only cost you
washers!!!" 
nothing is impossible
everything is possible
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Hellfire
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| posted on 12/3/10 at 04:12 PM |
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You need to tighten the pinion retaining nut to remove the excessive play.
Pictures, words and all that.....
 
Sierra Rack
Phil
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DIY Si
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| posted on 12/3/10 at 05:00 PM |
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Cheers one and all. I'll have a look when I can next get out to the garage and have an adjust of things.
“Let your plans be dark and as impenetratable as night, and when you move, fall like a thunderbolt.”
Sun Tzu, The Art of War
My new blog: http://spritecave.blogspot.co.uk/
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 13/3/10 at 11:03 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Hellfire
You need to tighten the pinion retaining nut to remove the excessive play.
I need to do this on my Striker; what actually locks the pinion nut in place?
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