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Author: Subject: Forming rigid brake lines
johnH20

posted on 12/5/09 at 05:26 PM Reply With Quote
Forming rigid brake lines

I am currently fitting out my car with brake lines. Forming the bends in the right place is proving problematical. At the moment I am making up a series of single bends in old brake pipe and pinning them together with welding rod to make a model which I can copy for the real thing. This works but is very tedious suggestions on a better method would be appreciated.
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pewe

posted on 12/5/09 at 05:39 PM Reply With Quote
I use opened out wire coat-hangers as it's easy to bend and strung it together with duct tape.
HTH.
Cheers, Pewe

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zetec

posted on 12/5/09 at 05:47 PM Reply With Quote
Have you got a proper bending tool? Makes life easier as you can guage better how much pipe is taken up with the bend.





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jps

posted on 21/9/22 at 11:00 AM Reply With Quote
Just bumping this up incase there is any other experience that can be shared - I've got a 'proper' pipe bending tool, which is helping with forming nice curves without any kinks. In terms of making the overall piece (all of which have multiple curves/direction changes in them) i'm currently using the 'wire coat hanger' approach for individual sections, but they're not so easy to come by these days!
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loggyboy

posted on 21/9/22 at 11:31 AM Reply With Quote
I used twin and earth as its solid core and holds it shape, also insulation stops scratching of chassis etc.
Once I had the basic shape I offered up the lines and bent by hand to finalise. But to be fair I didn't have many complicated shapes to bend around.

StrikerFrontLines
StrikerFrontLines


StrikerRearLines
StrikerRearLines


[Edited on 21-9-22 by loggyboy]





Mistral Motorsport

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jps

posted on 21/9/22 at 11:45 AM Reply With Quote
Probably i've made it a lot worse for myself by having the transmission tunnel panels on, and the engine/gearbox/diff all in place.

My approach is that this means i definitely will fit pipework around the items that have a fixed location - but to be fair it is making it hard to get the shapes in order to run 1 piece fuel and brake lines down the transmission tunnel from the engine bay all the way into the boot...

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loggyboy

posted on 21/9/22 at 11:55 AM Reply With Quote
Yes, I had my box/prop/Diff in loosely and was in and out a few times at that stage to ensure things didnt clash, but allow easier access.





Mistral Motorsport

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rusty nuts

posted on 21/9/22 at 06:10 PM Reply With Quote
I use a liner from a 3mt MIG torch to mock up the longer brake pipe runs to calculate the required lengths then cut the pipe accordingly, I use a small pipe bender if needed for larger bends and a pair of Pipeaid pliers for tighter bends
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Slimy38

posted on 22/9/22 at 07:27 AM Reply With Quote
I don't know whether I made things harder for myself because I used Kunifer instead of copper. That stuff needed a tool to get decent curves. It was only a cheap pipe bender from screwfix though.

Coat hangers were my tool of choice for planning the route, we've built up quite a collection over the years and they're great for route planning, going fishing in trunking and behind cavity walls etc.

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nick205

posted on 22/9/22 at 08:11 AM Reply With Quote
On my MK Indy I worked slowly by hand forming the hard brake and fuel lines by hand. Holding them in place with cable ties as I went and then going back with P clips and rivets. The lines weren't perfect, but they worked without fault (no leaks) and no rubbing or clashes. Yes it took time, but it was a satisfying job to do.

Where it changed from a hard to flexi pipe I made metal brakets using Ally strip rivetted to the chassis.

Front brake pipe routing
Front brake pipe routing


Rear upright brake pipe routin
Rear upright brake pipe routin


fuel tank + pick up connection
fuel tank + pick up connection


Rescued attachment 031219-07.jpg
Rescued attachment 031219-07.jpg


[Edited on 22/9/22 by nick205]

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nick205

posted on 22/9/22 at 08:23 AM Reply With Quote
Right angle drill chuck attachment

You might also find one of these really useful to get into tight spots for drilling holes in chassis rails.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/165254577654?epid=1060635467&hash=item2679f0bdf6:g:nvoAAOSwc4thyefg&amda ta=enc%3AAQAHAAAA8MHBF77tDdyz0NAXNr56uFIXvX29zM2b5vLxLKE88ec7LEZva2ym3jSFKVFAzymT0c%2F3Qc0BPi7m%2F1kX6obSnmZAjpfgjrbyR6QSa62Ns7q8hDoz2xNqtp10ylBh0M2tC qiyCbpogqNUCt2bX1tpDMFRIP%2FarrcTdG55TPhpLhPxvlPS0OQ1ZMtC9W%2BEzZrg4h6x5kf1qzS2BdoPrQIBx6UboBAfTE5Zcudyjod2f7ZYV4YFXi6GYlxpOx2kDxjn2XOUu6eagHFNiVmgSVZ mQgm3Qqrq%2BymOdTmQyoJBE1qE%2B56Kg%2Fs8RVTnePxL5eeB2g%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBMhKS1xOxg

radca-nick205
radca-nick205


[Edited on 22/9/22 by nick205]

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