nitram38
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| posted on 4/4/09 at 01:44 PM |
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I gave them the part numbers from the wilwood box but not the rears as that circuit was fine.
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ghostrain
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| posted on 4/4/09 at 01:52 PM |
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But you cannot consider the rear line in isolation,the master cylinders for front and rear have to be considered together.
For Wilwood USA to be able to specify any recommendation they need to know the same info we need.What pedal ratio are you using?
I noticed you had both inlet ports leak,that is very concerning...what type of union and thread of union were you trying to screw into the port?
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nitram38
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| posted on 4/4/09 at 04:46 PM |
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I have the standard wilwood pedalset supplied by rally design so you should know the ratio!  
They obviously made assumptions about my rear caliper size.
Like I said, I am an amateur who has to take advice and try and make the best of what is available. I've learned the hard way........... by
trying.
I've sold the MC's on for not much of a loss. It's just the constant going over things. My standard rover rear calipers worked
straight away and no leaks or issues. It has just been the front circuit.
The leaks were caused by tapered aluminium adapters ( supplied with a braided hose set from Russ Bost) that I thought were seated. I didn't want
to over tighten them in case I split the thread in the caliper.
So maybe it was me being too careful. A bit of ptfe tape has stopped the leak.
I thought getting rid of the standard rover calipers was going to improve things (like weight) but the hassle of bleeding/leaks and cylinder sizes
has made me want to buy another brand of caliper in future.
Here is a pic of the pedals:
 
Description
[Edited on 4/4/2009 by nitram38]
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ghostrain
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| posted on 4/4/09 at 06:03 PM |
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You will keep going over things unless you advise the correct info,it's an expensive way to end up with the right result...I have driven many
vehicles built by amateurs who thought their brakes were performing well and surprised at the improvement when the hydraulics are set up
correctly...it is such a simple matter to measure with a vernier the od of all the pistons and with a ruler the pedal ratio of the pedal box...your
photo appears to show the Wilwood reverse mount box,which is available in 6.25:1 and 5.1:1,assuming 1.38 piston Powerlites you would normally use a
0.70 with the 6.25 and 0.625 with the 5.1.If you use a 0.75 that will give less power/less stroke and a firmer pedal.
The inlet ports use a 1/8 NPT thread,taper thread form.
I'm guessing on the rears but normally a 0.75 m/cyl is the norm if you have used rear calipers from a front engined donor.
On these very light vehicles unless in race conditions it is often difficult to get enough heat into the front pads...my current favourites are Mintex
M1144,which have plenty of low heat bite.
The pedal box would normally be adjusted with a long pushrod on the front,especially if using the lower pedal ratio/0.625 master cylinder
combination,to allow the maximum travel on the front m/cyl avoiding lock up in the balance bar.
Within the limits of the info you have provided thats as close as I can recommend.
By the way the Powerlite and Midilite calipers were designed in the UK so we tend to have more experience with them than the Yanks.
Hope that helps you and others with a similar set-up.
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nitram38
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| posted on 4/4/09 at 06:15 PM |
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The MC's are 0.75 Front, 0.75 rear.
0.625 was too small on the fronts.
The front cylinder pushrod is set as the longest and the rear shortest and the front pushrod pushes in until the bias bar is about straight before
the brakes become firm.
I now have a firm pedal, which I like. It just remains to be seen what the sva brake rollers make of it.
The mintex pads seem like a good option, so I might change them from the wilwood ones I was supplied with, if they don't perform.
Cheers Martin
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