Dangle_kt
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posted on 18/11/07 at 03:51 PM |
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Thanks for your comment - is there a particular problem with rear axle brake config or is it just different to how yours is done?
I am all for making things better, but some rationale to the comments will help me decide if/when to do the changes and also be an assistance in
finding a suitable location.
Thanks in advance.
Also - are you saying the adjustments to the tunnel need to be made despite the fact the drivers side is already 3cm - 4cm narrower? If you could
clarify, as it will clear the tunnel, I used an edge this morning to check and if the prop is narrower then it will be fine I think.
All advise gratefully received.
Dangle
quote: Originally posted by britishtrident
If you look at the drawing fig 4.19 on page 56 of the second edition of the book you will see what is wrong. If you follow the book rear of the tunnel
should not be symmetrical, Just a simple cut and weld required but it will have to be jigged up before cutting to prevent distortion.
The rear axle brake pipework is a real mess it all needs changed.
Ditch the two flex hoses running to each wheel, Re position the "T" somewhere more sensible, run a 3/16" kunnifer pipe from each
wheel cylinder to the "T"
The flex hose from the chassis has the wrong type of fitting for connecting to the "T" two ways round this without getting a new flex
hose either
(1) Shorten the thread and use a copper washer between the hose and the "T".
(2) Weld a bracket on the axle for the hose similar to the original Escort fitting and run a short 3/16" kunnifer pipe from the "T"
to the flex hose.
Take extra care when making or ordering brake fittings as it would appear a odd mixture of imperial and metric fittings have been used.
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Dangle_kt
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posted on 18/11/07 at 03:57 PM |
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well spotted!
I remembered after I had posted that the previous owner mentioned something to do with a spacer on one of the rear wheels, so I will have to meausre
from the brake backplate /trailing arms rather than the tyre/wheel.
quote: Originally posted by JoelP
you seem to have slightly more space between o/s wheel and chassis than there is on the n/s. Since the trailing arms also seem to lean a bit that way,
and the diff flange is quite far that way, you could lengthen your panard rod maybe 3mm to give a little more clearance. As said though, you do
normally have a slant into the drivers bum area to clear it.
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Peteff
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posted on 18/11/07 at 09:51 PM |
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Are the trailing arm brackets welded to the axle in the same place both sides, check from the backplate to the bracket. If you lengthen the Panhard
rod it would push the axle further to the drivers side in a standard chassis wouldn't it? You are trying to achieve the opposite and has the
spacer been put on there to equalise the distance between the chassis and the rim on both sides?
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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britishtrident
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posted on 19/11/07 at 09:00 AM |
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quote: Originally posted by blueshift
Also random note you may or may not know, the propshaft should not run completely straight, it needs a bit of angle (around 3 degrees if I remember
correctly) to stop the bearings wearing out. The flanges do need to be parallel though (unlike my road car at the moment I suspect.. )
With a live axle this isn't as critical as IRS.
In a live axle the propshaft joints move with the suspension.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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JoelP
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posted on 19/11/07 at 07:37 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by Peteff
If you lengthen the Panhard rod it would push the axle further to the drivers side in a standard chassis wouldn't it? You are trying to achieve
the opposite and has the spacer been put on there to equalise the distance between the chassis and the rim on both sides?
You could be right there pete, i assumed the rod was mounted o/s on the chassis and n/s on the axle, so lengthening would move it towards n/s. I may
well be backwards
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