Hammerhead
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| posted on 15/5/08 at 01:46 PM |
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How to remove hub bolts
I need to remove the hub bolts to replace with longer ones. The hubs are fitted to the car and I don't really want to bash the bolts out with a
hammer because I think it will mess with the geometry set up. So any suggestions?
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Mr Whippy
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| posted on 15/5/08 at 01:59 PM |
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ha ha! I misread that question completely, must be the coffee: D
Fame is when your old car is plastered all over the internet
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Hammerhead
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| posted on 15/5/08 at 02:00 PM |
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do I need to re-word?
I guess they are studs. like wot is in the picture 
 
hub
[Edited on 15/5/08 by Hammerhead]
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BenB
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| posted on 15/5/08 at 02:04 PM |
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If you're not keen on smacking it with a hammer the other option would be something like a pulley puller that would have a tongue which sits
behind the hub and a bolt which screwed down on to the top of the hub bolt. Torque up the bolt out pops the hub bolt etc etc...
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Bluemoon
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| posted on 15/5/08 at 02:05 PM |
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I read that as wheel studs?
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tks
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| posted on 15/5/08 at 02:05 PM |
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i would make some kind of small tool using a round tube and a U and a bolt and nut.
Welding it together should make you some kind of press.
in fact with one big U you could do it!
You will need to drill one side of the U sow the nut/bolt can pass on the other side the U needs the hole as big as the stud.
then when you place the U on the hub and turn on the screw it will lock it self.
Appling more force then will force the studoutwards...
Think some overnight soaking in WD40 will help!!
the U will need to be strong!!!
Tks
The above comments are always meant to be from the above persons perspective.
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BenB
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| posted on 15/5/08 at 02:06 PM |
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It'd actually be quite easy to make something suitable if you've got access to a welder.
Personally I'd smack it with a hammer 
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Fatgadget
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| posted on 15/5/08 at 02:09 PM |
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Snap-on breaker bar with a scaffold pipe extension!
Should the breaker bar break,just replace it under lifetime warranty!
Seriously..Impact wrench.
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Dragon-Performance-Eu
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| posted on 15/5/08 at 02:12 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Hammerhead
I don't really want to bash the bolts out with a hammer because I think it will mess with the geometry set up. So any suggestions?
Gasp, is it that fragile that a hit with a hammer will alter the suspension geometry ?
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blakep82
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| posted on 15/5/08 at 02:43 PM |
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ball joint seperator? not the fork type you bash with a hammer, but the other type, er, that you don't hit with a hammer...
________________________
IVA manual link http://www.businesslink.gov.uk/bdotg/action/detail?type=RESOURCES&itemId=1081997083
don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
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nick205
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| posted on 15/5/08 at 02:57 PM |
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However you get them out (and a hammer will be the qickest and easiest way) you will then need to fit the longer ones to the flange. So unless you
have access to a puller or pusher (hammer) suitable for getting the new ones fitted in situ then I'd just remove the hubs and do it on the
bench. The whole job will be much easier and you're more likelt to get the new longer studs in nice and square too.
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RazMan
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| posted on 15/5/08 at 03:02 PM |
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A few whacks with a big hammer shouldn't upset your geometry at all - go on, just grit your teeth a belt it!
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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BenB
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| posted on 15/5/08 at 03:07 PM |
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Getting the new studs in situ is nice and easy. Whole load of washers, a spare wheel nut and a air impact ratchet... Job's a good'un...
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Bluemoon
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| posted on 15/5/08 at 03:45 PM |
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I'd personally not use a hammer when attached to the bearing, you might cause other problems that turn up latter... you ought to really press
them out..
Dan
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britishtrident
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| posted on 15/5/08 at 04:18 PM |
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Put a nut on the end of the thread, then 2 kg hammer light/medium blows.
[Edited on 15/5/08 by britishtrident]
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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coozer
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| posted on 15/5/08 at 05:15 PM |
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Machine Mart have a nice little 1 ton arbor press for £35 inc.
Or use a vice and appropriate size sockets. Once they are moving they should come out easy and then you have a nce setup to press the new ones in
without buggering them
Steve
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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blakep82
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| posted on 15/5/08 at 05:19 PM |
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oooh and some boiling water over the flange 
(sounds painful...)
________________________
IVA manual link http://www.businesslink.gov.uk/bdotg/action/detail?type=RESOURCES&itemId=1081997083
don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
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clairetoo
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| posted on 15/5/08 at 05:19 PM |
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Surely its not that major a job to remove the hubs ? I`m guessing you will have to remove the discs to get the new longer studs in , and it`s a handy
time to bung in some fresh grease and check/adjust the bearings............
Its cuz I is blond , innit
Claire xx
Will weld for food......
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02GF74
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| posted on 15/5/08 at 05:33 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by BenB
Getting the new studs in situ is nice and easy. Whole load of washers, a spare wheel nut and a air impact ratchet... Job's a good'un...
assuming there is enough space behind the flange to get t hime into the holes....
ask yourself how miuch time/money it wold cost if you amage something by hammering?
I vote for reomving the flanges and using a press or hammer.
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britishtrident
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| posted on 15/5/08 at 05:38 PM |
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Guys keep it simple -- this isn't a major job no fancy tools are needed, no dismantling all thats needed is a few GENTLE hammer blows.
In days on by when all cars had drum brakes Mechanics would often knock the the wheels studs through with a hammer, this trick was used to aid when
getting a brake drum off if the wheel cylinder was seized on --- I can assure you no one ever had a wheel fall off because of it.
[Edited on 15/5/08 by britishtrident]
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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Duncan_P
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| posted on 15/5/08 at 05:59 PM |
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Gettings them out is the easy bit! I heated mine and then tapped them out with a hammer, they came out pretty easily (after failing to push them
out).
Getting the longer ones back in is a bit more of a pain, I ended up bodging something to pull them back in with some steel tube, washers and a couple
of nuts.
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Duncan_P
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| posted on 15/5/08 at 06:03 PM |
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I wouldn't advise trying this....
I managed to break my old (fairly decent) vice doing this 
quote:
Originally posted by coozer
use a vice and appropriate size sockets
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daviep
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| posted on 15/5/08 at 06:11 PM |
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Personally I would get an assistant (or do it myself) to hold a fore hammer against the back of the hub to prevent the shock being transfered to any
other components, then one good lick with a 4lb hammer, no tickling it.
Alternativley with the car on ground remove two opposite wheel nuts and knock the studs out, the force of the blow will be transferred only to the
stud and not to the suspension as the weight of the car is still sitting on it.
Davie
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mad4x4
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| posted on 15/5/08 at 06:41 PM |
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Take the hub off and bash with a Hammer - You will probably need to remove the hub to get enough room to put in the longer bolts anyway...
Scot's do it better in Kilts.
MK INDY's Don't Self Centre Regardless of MK Setting !
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snapper
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| posted on 15/5/08 at 06:58 PM |
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I have learned, BOY have i learned that when contemplating an easy way to do a job you will by default cause yourself more problems and time than if
you had bitten the bullet and done it properly
I eat to survive
I drink to forget
I breath to pi55 my ex wife off (and now my ex partner)
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