Before using the VBH technique, I want to know what is the usual method of removing the rear brake drum from an Escort Mk1 live axle.
Normally I would expect a countersunk bolt to lock the drum, or maybe a central nut.
If I put a small crow-bar between the drum and the backplate, and apply gentle force, I can see that the drum moves a bit in relation to the studs.
Escort rear brake drum front
Escort rear brake drum back 1
Escort rear brake drum back 2
quote:
Originally posted by maartenromijn
Before using the VBH technique, I want to know what is the usual method of removing the rear brake drum from an Escort Mk1 live axle.
Normally I would expect a countersunk bolt to lock the drum, or maybe a central nut.
If I put a small crow-bar between the drum and the backplate, and apply gentle force, I can see that the drum moves a bit in relation to the studs.
Escort rear brake drum front
Escort rear brake drum back 1
Escort rear brake drum back 2
yes big hammer is the usual route
So it has no locking bolt or other locking mechanism?
It's the wheel + nuts that hold it in place.
The drum should just slip off, but the brake shoes wear a groove, leaving a lip on the outer edge. make sure that the shoes are fully retracted as
best as you can (handbrake fully off, any adjusters are wound in, etc.) and then you'll have a fighting chance.
Don't hit it too hard with a steel hammer - it's made of iron, and can crack if you're unlucky. A few hefty whacks with a rubber
mallet should be safe though.
It's probably corroded on to the end of the driveshaft (in the centre as you look at it) they're a right B****** to get off, usually prying
it off while braying the thing with a BFH 
Warming it up with a blowlamp or sexy ahotalene helps. Dave Jenkins has said about the groove effect, sometimes tapping the outer edges of the drum at 9 and 3 OClock helps too
Thanks guys. Now I have something to do this happy hangover afternoon!
Thats a actually an Escort Mk2 setup --- self-adjusting brakes
Getting the drum off is just a medium hammer job assisted by a large screw driver or tyre lever.
(1) Start by giving the drum a couple of fairly hard knocks inwards towards the dif -- this helps breal the rust bond between the center spigot and
the drum.
(2) Then just start knocking the drum off prying with a screw driver/tyre lever at the opposite side. -- work round the drum alternative hitting
alternate side - 2 O'clock, 8 O'clock 12 O clock 6 O'clock. 10 O'clock 4 O'clock.
Once the drum starts to move it will stick and you may find repeating step one and starting again helps.
I would second BT but do not hit the braking surface of the brake drum (the outer cicumference) as it's likely to distort. Hitting the inner edge of the drum towards the outside of the car should be OK.
From my experience this problem is often compounded by the tendency for the drum to jam on the centrebore.
If this is the case, when you do finally remove it, a little filing around the centrebore hole will make it easier to remove next time. Bear in mind
though, that the drum locates and centralises around this hole, so try to file evenly around the hole.
Also once off carefully grind away the ridge where the shoes do not reach on the outside edge of the drum before refitting.
[Edited on 26/10/08 by mark chandler]
There's more to it then only FBH. Glad I asked before I tried 