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Locost camber and toe in measuring
aka Keith - 29/4/08 at 03:14 PM

What is the best tool/locost tool to measure camber and toe in/out.

Its for a BEC MK indy.

Mr Whippy - 29/4/08 at 03:21 PM

this, what? it works fine! clamp a bit of wood against the wheel and measure off it...

[Edited on 29/4/08 by Mr Whippy] Rescued attachment measure.jpg
Rescued attachment measure.jpg

aka Keith - 29/4/08 at 03:32 PM

Cheers Mr Whippy, but as a newbie to this game, could you help out a little more.

It has been far too many years since I was in school, and I have forgotten all my trig.

Mr Whippy - 29/4/08 at 03:42 PM

Ok

1) Get yourself a sprit level and make sure the chassis is sitting at the right height and level with the floor (on it wheels of course)

2) With the wheels dead ahead put the level vertically against the side of the front tyre and check that it is vertical, for now at least.

3) Caster you’re stuck with unless you have adjustable wishbones...

4) clamp a piece of wood horizontally across the outside of each front wheel. Measure the difference between the front and back measurements, no difference is zero toe in, I'd leave it at that till you can drive it about, and then adjust it to suit when you can see how it behaves.

[Edited on 29/4/08 by Mr Whippy]

aka Keith - 29/4/08 at 03:47 PM

Mr Whippy, the car is running, SVA'd etc, however I want to make small changes to the settings until it is just so.. but Iw want to make sure that both sides are adjusted to the same settings.

so I would like to check the camber and the toe in, without taking it preferably to a set up place...but if I need to (if it is recommended) I will.
Cheers
Craig

Mr Whippy - 29/4/08 at 03:53 PM

take it to kwik fit they'll most likey do it for free for the sheer novelty, loved my buggy and I never paid a penny

Hellfire - 29/4/08 at 03:55 PM

For the toe in/out; If the distance between the two lengths of angle iron at the front of the car is the same as the distance furthest away, then the tracking is parallel. Simple trig will then enable you to make any toe in/out adjustments.

Phil



[Edited on 29-4-08 by Hellfire]

aka Keith - 29/4/08 at 04:01 PM

Cheers Phil

Sorry simple Trig.....I have forgotten all the trig learnt at school..can you remind me?

[Edited on 29/4/08 by aka Keith]

James - 29/4/08 at 04:54 PM

SOHCAHTOA...

what more you need?

Mix - 29/4/08 at 05:19 PM

Forget angle iron, for the same price you can get a couple of battery lasers to project onto a wall / screen.

Mick

RazMan - 29/4/08 at 05:34 PM

Ahem!
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=75669

MikeRJ - 29/4/08 at 08:49 PM

quote:
Originally posted by Mix
Forget angle iron, for the same price you can get a couple of battery lasers to project onto a wall / screen.

Mick


A cheap laser pointer won't have a beam that is remotely parallel to the length of the body, how would you use them for checking geometry? Fine for taking relative measurements such as bump steer though.

procomp - 30/4/08 at 02:26 PM

Hi is it not normal to check your tracking at ride height rather than full droop. Especially given the amount of bumpsteer on an Indy.

Cheers Matt

aka Keith - 30/4/08 at 03:14 PM

quote:
Originally posted by procomp
Hi is it not normal to check your tracking at ride height rather than full droop. Especially given the amount of bumpsteer on an Indy.

Cheers Matt


I assume that was a question about the picture from Hellfire/Phil.. I was wondering the same, I thought you measured the seetings at ride height?

Phil, can you comment?

Mix - 30/4/08 at 03:40 PM

Hi Mike RJ

My lasers were about £4 each and have an adjuster to allow initial zeroing which I will accomplish by sighting down a straight edge clamped to the hub / disc.

Cheers Mick