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how do I alter my pedal box?
smart51 - 25/2/08 at 09:43 PM

I have a mini pedal box nor my new car. Sadly, the pedals are too far apart. Each pedal has 2 20° bends in the metal making them 135mm between centres. I want them to be 95mm apart.

I'm guessing that cutting and welding is not a good idea. What do you suggest?Image deleted by owner

redscamp - 25/2/08 at 09:58 PM

why is the brake light switch on the clutch pedal ?

stuart_g - 25/2/08 at 09:59 PM

move the left hand pedal to the right by taking out the horizontal piece. You can weld the part with the rubber bit on to the vertical pedal piece.

Here is a pic Rescued attachment pedal.jpg
Rescued attachment pedal.jpg

smart51 - 25/2/08 at 10:12 PM

quote:
Originally posted by redscamp
why is the brake light switch on the clutch pedal ?


It is scooter engined, so automatic. I only need 2 pedals. Ta da! The left pedal becomes the brake pedal.

Is a welded pedal safe / SVA friendly? I guess there's less load on a brake pedal than a suspension mount after all.

JohnN - 25/2/08 at 10:15 PM

Welding is as OK as your welding capability

redscamp - 25/2/08 at 10:34 PM

cut the pads off the ends (mini rubbers are no good)
mount drilled metal pedals offset
if done it by welding stainless to mild before!

MikeRJ - 26/2/08 at 09:33 AM

quote:
Originally posted by smart51
Is a welded pedal safe / SVA friendly? I guess there's less load on a brake pedal than a suspension mount after all.


Done properly it's fine. In this case it seems you just need to move the actual pedal to the end of the operating lever, so you won't be doing any welding on highly stressed/critical areas (e.g. like cutting and shutting a brake pedal or fitting a bias bar).

smart51 - 26/2/08 at 11:31 AM

Thanks Guys. What I've done is cut a 3mm slot across the 6mm thick metal, so I can straighten the bends on the left hand pedal. I then welded up the slot. The left hand pedal is now straight. I'm happy with the weld penetration and in any case I didn't cut all the way through the metal.