Please excuse if you can the sh*t^ drawing (no cad at work). Has anyone come across a design that has the upper wishbone offset like that? It's how it’s been done on the Honda Williams (possibly for the spring link arm to clear the drive shaft) and if I was to change it so it looked more normal would really affect the authenticity of the replica.

Is there any downside to that layout? Or does it just look odd..

Cheers.





[Edited on 17/12/07 by Mr Whippy]
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unless the upright is very stiff it looks like there could be some twisting movement changing the geometry by the steering loads. If done by Honda Williams then you know they have engineered it in for a reason.
I doubt you could make it work for you at home without the complete package of williams engineers.IMHO

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really affect the authenticity of the replica.

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Originally posted by D Beddows

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really affect the authenticity of the replica.

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what, you mean more than having a wheezy old Ford V6 from a Capri for an engine and an automatic gearbox.....

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one benefit of this set up (assuming it is as it looks) is that you can adjust toe without changing camber. Though im sure as simple a reason as this didnt motivate honda.

My first ideas for an explanation to it purpose was to do with the direction of resultant forces from accelerating, though an engineer would probably say I'm talking bo$£ocks

[Edited on 17/12/07 by Mr Whippy]
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It is similar to a Fisher Fury IRS which mounts the coil over on the bottom wishbone, but offset to one side to clear the driveshaft, though the top of the upright is a triangular shape rather than being rectangular.You can see pics on their website... www.fishersportscars.co.uk then go to the gallery site from there.

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Originally posted by bigbird
It is similar to a Fisher Fury IRS which mounts the coil over on the bottom wishbone, but offset to one side to clear the driveshaft, though the top of the upright is a triangular shape rather than being rectangular.You can see pics on their website... www.fishersportscars.co.uk then go to the gallery site from there.

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I think it could be more to do with anti-dive geometry

It will work --- however the bottom wishbone and toe control link should be separate pieces.

You get some odd twisting forces on rear upright which i turn will increase the loads on the upper wishbone and the ball joint.

However I also would be more worried about using that titanic anchor of an engine.

JoelP hit the nail on the head. It's so you can adjust toe independent of camber.
Bob

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Originally posted by britishtrident

However I also would be more worried about using that titanic anchor of an engine.

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everyone’s got it in for my lovely engine

It's not heavy it just big boned! Though if anyone’s got an alloy timing gear cover that would be nice

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jambojeef - 17/12/07 at 05:04 PM

Whippy,

In an effort to at least keep the engine from the same manufacturer - how about the v6 2.7 litre Honda Legend engine?

All Aluminium and I have it on good authority that its one fine engine....U2U Liam he is obscenely knowledgable in this particular field of automotive engineering.

Seriously - I cant think of a worse engine to put in an FW11B replica - apart from maybe a mower?

Just been looking at some old pics of the 11B and turboing the Honda v6 could give you the looks and packaging of the F1 engine plus respectable power and weight and if mated to, Im guessing, an Audi transaxle could make it at least the right layout.

Youve gotta at least give it some thought - hopefully as the final nail in the coffin - a mte of mine who is currently digging foundations for a garage found a cologne v6 buried in the garden!

Do you really want to use that engine as propulsion for an F1 replica from the turbo era?

Im sure you have your reasons for choosing it intially but this is gonna be a long project and I reckon a bit of extra fuss now could save a lot in the future?

[Edited on 17/12/07 by jambojeef]

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