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Steering column downlink extension
GO - 16/9/03 at 11:23 AM

I've seen that most people get some tube that fits snuggly over triangular section of sierra column and weld, but how does this sound...

Get said tube, overlap triangular section by 4 to 5 inches. Drill two holes right through tube and triangle a couple of inches apart and at 90 degrees to each other. High tensile bolts and nylocks to hold it together.

Should easily be able to hold the twisting forces of steering and may even aid the collapsibility of the column in an accident.


David Jenkins - 16/9/03 at 11:34 AM

Um... why not use the top of the Sierra's downlink as the top of your modified downlink?

This would be far easier, as it will then have the correct easily-off-and-on-able fitting, which also works as part of the collapse mechanism.

rgds,

David


ChrisW - 16/9/03 at 11:38 AM

quote:

I've seen that most people get some tube that fits snuggly over triangular section of sierra column and weld



I would argue that most people use the top joint from the Sierra downlink to attatch the new downlink to the triangular section...? I wouldn't want to attatch the downlink direct to the column without a universal joint in the way.

Chris


GO - 16/9/03 at 12:47 PM

Sorry, prob didnt make myself very clear!

The question was more with regards to using a couple (maybe more) high tensile bolts and nylocks all the way through the extension piece to hold the extension and triangular section together, than exactly there the extension goes.

So, do you think a few high tensile bolts would be up to the job, instead of welding?


stephen_gusterson - 16/9/03 at 01:15 PM

i made my steering shaft up by a combination of the original shaft AND a second from the breakers. It bolts together using existing bits with a simple mod....

atb

steve


GO - 16/9/03 at 01:27 PM

Cheers Steve,

So theres nothing inherently wrong with using bolts for this.

Do you have any pictures?

Thanks,

Graham


stephen_gusterson - 16/9/03 at 02:22 PM

Will see if I can sort a pic later tonight. The sierra /granada upper clamp to the triangular section uses a fixed pin and a single bolt to clamp the column to the downlink shaft. So I dont see bolts as a problem!


atb

steve


James - 16/9/03 at 04:25 PM

quote:
Originally posted by GO
Sorry, prob didnt make myself very clear!

The question was more with regards to using a couple (maybe more) high tensile bolts and nylocks all the way through the extension piece to hold the extension and triangular section together, than exactly there the extension goes.

So, do you think a few high tensile bolts would be up to the job, instead of welding?


You don't really want to touch the triangular piece other than to bolt the UJ to it.
The welding comes into it when you cut the round bar in half that connects the two UJs and you extend this round bar.

HTH,

James


Mark Allanson - 16/9/03 at 06:05 PM

I think this is what everyone means - if not let us know Rescued attachment Sierra Column3.jpg
Rescued attachment Sierra Column3.jpg


JoelP - 16/9/03 at 06:51 PM

Thats what i did to mine, with a 45 degree cut like someone posted to increase the weld area.

I think it wasn't 16swg tube i used, had two sorts knocking around and one was too tight a fit, so i think it was 18 guage in the end.

Anyone know for sure what tube fits over the chopped ends of the bottom bit?


GO - 22/9/03 at 04:37 PM

Steve,

Did you get a chance to take a pic of your modded steering shaft with the extra section from a second donor?

Interested to see what you've done.

Cheers.


canuck - 23/9/03 at 10:22 AM

I too am interested in seeing some pics of what others have done to extend their column. Pics clarify alot


Chris Leonard - 23/9/03 at 11:16 AM

try this if you want to extend your column.

www.enlargerstrap.com


timf - 23/9/03 at 11:27 AM

chris
is the above a product endorsement from a satisfied customer


vintagebuilder - 23/9/03 at 08:23 PM

Is this available on the NHS?


stephen_gusterson - 23/9/03 at 10:09 PM

Here is a pic of what I did to lengthen the shaft. From memory.........

I have 3 UJ in my steering with a bearing block at the lower end.
What you cant see in the pic is the lower 'rubber' uj at the rack, or the 'like the one at the top' joint I used as an intermediate joint.

However, the interesting bit is the join between the two shafts was made by dissassembling the rubber UJ from another shaft, and using it as a 'joiner'. The splined bit was slid over the shaft, clamped and generously welded. Two 8mm bolts hold the halves together.

As I say, my solution is a 3 parter, which may not adapt to a more std car, but it shows the theme.

You should at least as an alternative be able to use two shafts and make up a 'sleeve' to make a join over both halves if needed.

Hope this helps and doesnt confuse!

steve


[Edited on 23/9/03 by stephen_gusterson] Rescued attachment steer.jpg
Rescued attachment steer.jpg


canuck - 24/9/03 at 10:30 AM

Thanks Steve, I am starting to build a locost with my students as a shop project at my highschool where I teach automotive. Every thing about building the car seems reasonably straight forward, but in my 25 some years in the industry I have never taken a perfectly good steering column and cut stretched and welded it together. This should be a good learning experience. Thanks for the photo, it gives some food for thought


stephen_gusterson - 24/9/03 at 09:57 PM

If I had the right tube, I would have slipped a length over the shafts as a sleeve.

Rorty has suggested extending drive shafts this way, with 'rose welds'. I undersntad these to be holes in the sleeve into which you 'spot weld' thro to the shaft underneath. I would guess that this stops stress at the end of the sleeve as it emerges to the shaft.

My solution just used ready parts, and the bolted section would act as a bend point in a crash.

The lower rubber UJ joint looks a real lash up in the ford original - my extension solution is by no means the weak link!

atb

steve