Ive fitted the drive shafts and the carrier and hub. How do you tighten the 42mm nuts with out the diff spinning. (and popping off the hub bearing)


Also the steering column rubber moveable joint (were its fixed to the rack) fouls the chassis and wont turn?

can you put the brakes on to stop the spinning, its the normal way if it is actually on a car

quote:

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Originally posted by paulmw
Ive fitted the drive shafts and the carrier and hub. How do you tighten the 42mm nuts with out the diff spinning. (and popping off the hub bearing)


Also the steering column rubber moveable joint (were its fixed to the rack) fouls the chassis and wont turn?

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I did mine (bolt on shafts) in a bench vice. I clamped the wheel carrier in the vice with 2 of the wheel studs bearing against the vice upper face.

I ripped my own bench apart loosening them so used a heavy steel workbench at work to do it. I also used a 2m long scaffold pole over the socket bar to get leverage.

edit:

If its on your car already, put the hand brake on tight and chock the wheels. Put it in gear too if that will help.



[Edited on 28-6-2007 by smart51]

quote:

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Originally posted by paulmw
Ive fitted the drive shafts and the carrier and hub. How do you tighten the 42mm nuts with out the diff spinning. (and popping off the hub bearing)


Also the steering column rubber moveable joint (were its fixed to the rack) fouls the chassis and wont turn?

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Hopefully 2 pics
Rescued attachment PICT1558.JPG

Oops bit big
Rescued attachment PICT1559.JPG

I tightend mine with the help of a long bar between two of the wheel studs (diagonaly) so it the hub did not turn.

Is one of the rack holes elongated so that there is some adjustment left to right??

Mike

you could angle grind off the nut carefully then buy new nut - which is advisable anyway.. just watch the thread when cutting off

just tighten them lightly and mark them with some sort of indicator to you that will let you know they aren't done and then tighten them properly when all wheels are on and brakes can be applied.

Them not being tight won't affect the rest of your build Paul so don't worry about them.

Forgetting to tighten them later will affect your driving though, hence me saying to mark them in some way!

Cheers mate,
Steve.

There was enough sideways play in my rack mountings that I could shift it over to get it to clear, but i've also seen one being built at MK that had the rubber bit cut down and the metal flanges on the column ground down a bit.

you will find your a ford spare wheel has a big hole in it

so you can nip up drop the car on the floor and tighten up

Both problems now solved

1) Diff nuts - I bought a 41mm socket and a 1/2 inch to 3/4 adapter. Screwed in a piece of 8mm bar through the hub into the hub carrier and bingo. Also gave it a go with the impact wrench.

2) Steering rubber Angle - ground off a couple of mm

Bit of an old topic, but do ford still sell these drive shaft nuts ( for bolt on shafts )

Thanks Spence