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Does this brake line routing look OK?
Catpuss - 27/5/07 at 04:02 PM

Before I commit to P clips I thought I would check with others here on if this routing looks OK.

I'm happy with it except for the rear drums. The bleed nipple on the near side is forwards and on the off side its rear. Would I be correct in assuming that the nipple and brake line enterances are interchangable on the slave cylinders, and if so, are they better forwards or rear wards.

The other thing rear wise, should the short copper line be on the drum, does it P clip to the rear upright, and should it go through the cut circle in the upright?

Sorry about the photo quality the back display on the camera got cracked on the way to Stoneleigh

Master Slave and Switch
Master Slave and Switch

Master Slave and Light Switch

Front Near Side Line Routing
Front Near Side Line Routing

Front Near Side Lines

The Bum End of the car

Rear Near Side
Rear Near Side

Rear Near Side

Rear Tee Piece 2
Rear Tee Piece 2

Tee Exiting Tunnel


Offside Rear
Offside Rear

Offside Rear

Lines Through Tunnel
Lines Through Tunnel

The Fudged Tunnel

I've uploaded the pictures to my photo archive in the BreakLinesRouting1 directory


scottc - 27/5/07 at 04:27 PM

Were you really scared or really cold when taking those pics?


Catpuss - 27/5/07 at 04:29 PM

I hadn't told the missus that I broke her camera at Stoneleigh. I guess you can work it out from that

The problem with the sodding thing is now, that it takes up 2 seconds between click and the picture being taken. Soddin thing.


stevec - 27/5/07 at 06:50 PM

Cant really make out the brake pipe pics but I reckon you need more threads through the nyloc nuts on the rear uprights,Unless its just loosely assembled.
Steve.


flak monkey - 27/5/07 at 07:50 PM

MC plumbing and front lines look the same as my routing, can't comment on the rear because of your IRS.

Just make sure the lines are rubbing or touching on anything anywhere and you will be fine.

Rear drums you can fit the bleed nipple in either hole

David

PS dont put copper slip on thread which you are putting nylocs onto, they need to be assembled onto the bolt dry.

[Edited on 27/5/07 by flak monkey]


Catpuss - 27/5/07 at 09:52 PM

quote:
Originally posted by stevec
Cant really make out the brake pipe pics but I reckon you need more threads through the nyloc nuts on the rear uprights,Unless its just loosely assembled.
Steve.


Yep, Everything is really just mocked up at the moment. Nothing is down to proper tightness.

As I'm half way between leaving the drive shafts as is or getting re-con ones it best that I don't do everything up to final torque until confirmed.

I've had a look at MK Ninja's photo archive and there are some good photos there. Couple of adjustments to the layout of mine to match that and I can now route my main tunnel line along the bottom of the tunnel.

Just need to fab up the ally angle bits from the cut out of the belly pan then rivet them in place.

Flak, yep, once I'm ready for final tightness the threads are getting cleaned up with de-greaser. When I was putting them on, I was getting the stuff all over myself and had to pull em out once or twice so will do it all again at the end. Possibly with a spot of thread lock too to be sure.


rusty nuts - 28/5/07 at 07:07 AM

The brake pipe on the O/S/R seems to be fouling what looks like the rear upright?


Catpuss - 28/5/07 at 08:50 AM

Thanks yep. I've got to make up some brackets today.

At the moment its all mocked up with string

I'm going to use the big bit of ally cut out for the gearbox for materials. Looks like its more than up to the job for flat plate bits. Should bend OK where I need L shape bits.