A bit of a mouthfull for a subject line I know
but does anyone know where I can get a tapered pin that will fit in my (cortina upright) steering arm
that will allow me to use rosejoints mounted to the top of the arm rather than by balljoint below?
Hopefully that all makes some kind of sense 
but in case it doesn't maybe the pic below will help (raldes product)
Alternatively what type of steel would this require to be made out of (en16?) and would it require to be heat hardened?
Cheers
Alex
Rescued attachment RCW01.jpg
They are in the rallydesign catalogue, on the page with the gts stuff on it.
quote:
Originally posted by minordelay
They are in the rallydesign catalogue, on the page with the gts stuff on it.
hi i think mnr have these too
check there web site am sure the link is on here somewhere
quote:
Originally posted by 24vseven
hi i think mnr have these too
check there web site am sure the link is on here somewhere
Okay, since this seems to be a dead end (unless I want to spend £120) would it be acceptable to simply drill the taper out of the steering arm fit a
hi tensile bolt through it and then attach the rose joint directly to the top of the arm?
It would mean using M14 rose joints for the steering (a touch overkill?) but would be a suitably locost solution to the problem.
Would this pass sva okay?
Comments appreciated before I get fed up and start drilling anyway 
Cheers
Alex
http://www.secureperformanceorder.com/afcostore/getsubclasses.cfm?ClassID=86&CategoryID=8
this might be a bit heavy duty, I think the shank size is 5/8 and the taper probably won't fit but they could maybe be adapted and are certainly
cheap enough!
i used a bolt direct through a rose and the steering arm. Worked fine. M14 is a bit large, thats why raceleda etc use converters and smaller roses
13mm bolt fits through without drilling the taper, 14mm would no remove it all anyway.
[Edited on 19/1/07 by JoelP]
Somebody will probably slag this of, but it has worked. Fill the tapered hole with "JP Weld", let it set then drill out to size you require, (say 10mm). Use a HT bolt with large, (penny), washers each side of the arm, fit your Rose joint and job done. All the JP Weld is doing is filling in the taper. HTH Ray.
I would suggest drilling the taper out and then spacing down to a more convenient size if required. Ie, drill a 15mm hole and fit a 1mm thick tube to bring it down to 13mm, or to a 1/2" bolt, whichever is most useful. That or use chippy's idea. Either way, make sure you use large enough washers.
Thats more like it, thanks guys 
Interesting use of JPWeld (JB?) Chippy, I would have thought it would just breakup with the constant forces on it, but I suppose the big washers would
remove any concern over it causing a prob.
So either that or drill it out and sleeve it down to size, nice one, I was worried about drilling the arm, not sure why (maybe just one of those parts
i dont like to mess with) but if thats what everyone else does it'll do me too
Cheers
Alex
as a matter of interest, how would these get on with SVA man??
Hi Alex, reference your comment about the JB Weld, I used this to do a temporary repair on a boat prop, when damaged on a trip to the channel islands,
just as a get you home job, (big chunk out of one blade), That was over four years ago still using the same prop still going good. (bought a spare,
which is in the locker, unfitted). 
Locost boating!! Think that should give some indication of just what the stuff will stand up to, after all you
can even thread it after curing. Regards, Ray
quote:
Originally posted by Chippy
Hi Alex, reference your comment about the JB Weld, I used this to do a temporary repair on a boat prop, when damaged on a trip to the channel islands, just as a get you home job, (big chunk out of one blade), That was over four years ago still using the same prop still going good. (bought a spare, which is in the locker, unfitted).