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t.j. - 25/12/06 at 09:17 PM

Saterday i finished my bones,

I'm happy with the results.

Any tips how to weld the backets to the chassis?


Description
Description


Description
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[Edited on 25/12/06 by t.j.]

MattCraneCustoms - 25/12/06 at 09:38 PM

they look very nice, should be strong enough too, but would the diaganol extra tube make much difference? fancy making a second pair?!!??

Avoneer - 25/12/06 at 10:27 PM

A gentle curve on the plate's back edge on the front lowers may be a good idea and is the general consensus.

Apart from that, look very good and good welds.

Pat...

JoelP - 25/12/06 at 10:34 PM

quote:
Originally posted by MattCraneCustoms
but would the diaganol extra tube make much difference?


braking would put lozenging forces into the bones, that diagonal is essential IMHO.

I like the rear uprights, what gauge or thickness are the components?

[Edited on 25/12/06 by JoelP]

the_fbi - 25/12/06 at 11:47 PM

Unless you've got a week to read it, skip to Mark Allanson's 2nd post on this thread.

http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=12587

the_fbi - 25/12/06 at 11:48 PM

quote:
Originally posted by JoelP
I like the rear uprights, what gauge or thickness are the components?

Don't know if his previous thread helps with better pictures.
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=56894

JoelP - 25/12/06 at 11:53 PM

cheers for that, looks even better there.

Its a sure sign im getting over my internet addiction if ive started missing threads!

Mark Allanson - 26/12/06 at 01:02 PM

I think you have a real weak point where the arms of the wishbone stops and the balljoint starts, all the forces are passing through a 2 dimensional plate before the get to the strong bits. I agree with the curved plate to prevent focusing loads to one very specific part of the arm.

I would use the as yet unfinished shock brackets to made the bones safe - I always try to make one piece do 2 jobs if I can.

I hope this pickie makes it as clear as mud! Rescued attachment Low front wishbone.JPG
Rescued attachment Low front wishbone.JPG

JoelP - 26/12/06 at 02:36 PM

i believe t.j is using 2mm tubing in his bones, so he's not as at risk as someone who has used 16g etc. Still a good idea though i suppose.

t.j. - 26/12/06 at 05:22 PM

quote:
Originally posted by JoelP
i believe t.j is using 2mm tubing in his bones, so he's not as at risk as someone who has used 16g etc. Still a good idea though i suppose.


Sorry I used 3 mm seamless tube in the wishbones. If I hit something i'm sure the bracket and the chassis will have a problem.

@ Mark.
The plate i used is 10mm thick so the forces at the ball-joint can be handled.

The curve in the back. I like that idea but not untill I know where the bracket of my 13 " Spax will be pointed.

Then i'm planning to do like the GTS-bones.
So not so far towards the mountings. Only the modify the excisting not by placing extra strenght.

Thx for the advice.
Always learning................

t.j. - 26/12/06 at 05:28 PM

quote:
Originally posted by JoelP
quote:
Originally posted by MattCraneCustoms
but would the diaganol extra tube make much difference?


braking would put lozenging forces into the bones, that diagonal is essential IMHO.

I like the rear uprights, what gauge or thickness are the components?

I used 4 mm there. Only the big tube is 3 mm in lack of finding 4 mm.

The upright is basicly like rorty's only rorty shock-mounting is not "my style"

The lower is as wide as possible in a 14 inch wheel. (forces)
The upper will be holded by one M16 rose-joint. The lower 2 m12 like the Avon does.
So most can be adjusted, Thanks to the advice earlier around here!

Grtz Theo