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Wheel stud modification
Avoneer - 23/10/05 at 03:51 PM

Hi Guys,

Due to me using original Escort wheels with tapered seatings, anything but the original bolts won't work as all the shouders are too long and the wheel nut hit the end of the thread before locking down on the wheel.

All the aftermarket studs appear to be the same after checking with various suppliers.

Can I lathe the new ones down to 12mm thick (apart from the splined shoulder section) and further the threaded section to match the original one in the pic?

If so, does anyone have a laithe and 12mm x 1.5mm die to do it with a quick turnaround?

Thanks,

Pat...


Avoneer - 23/10/05 at 04:00 PM

Oooops, forgot the pic: Rescued attachment Bolt.JPG
Rescued attachment Bolt.JPG


beefy - 23/10/05 at 08:13 PM

have you tried wheel spacers?


paulf - 23/10/05 at 08:16 PM

I dont think it would be a good idea to try and extend the thread on the studs, the original thread is rolled to help the strength and the material is heat treated high tensile steel which would damage a threading die.it would also introduce a stress raiser at the point the thread is extended to,
You might be better to use some thin wheel spacers.
Paul.


Avoneer - 23/10/05 at 09:56 PM

Using spacers is looking like the obvious and only solution, but this would upset the offset and would involve a purchase of 4 bloody wheel spacers.

Hi Chris, how would using an open nut help? Its the stud that runs out of thread when screwing a nut on, not the stud hitting the inside of the nut - but I'll let you off for being such a nice guy - you have U2U on the seats.

Cheers,

Pat...


NS Dev - 23/10/05 at 10:09 PM

just to second the comment on the thread cutting, definitely NOT a good idea. as was said, the threads are rolled and cutting a thread further down would be dangerous in this application.


NS Dev - 23/10/05 at 10:29 PM

quote:
Originally posted by Avoneer
Hi Guys,

Due to me using original Escort wheels with tapered seatings, anything but the original bolts won't work as all the shouders are too long and the wheel nut hit the end of the thread before locking down on the wheel.

All the aftermarket studs appear to be the same after checking with various suppliers.

Can I lathe the new ones down to 12mm thick (apart from the splined shoulder section) and further the threaded section to match the original one in the pic?

If so, does anyone have a laithe and 12mm x 1.5mm die to do it with a quick turnaround?

Thanks,

Pat...


maybe a penny has dropped............do you mean the 4 spoke RS alloys??

If so then a lot of these had a very big taper known as the ford "Ghia" nut. If you use a normal 60 deg taper nut with these the nutalmost disappears down the taper!

You need the ghia type nuts which have a free spinning steel conical washer attached to them. Rally design among others sell them, and cars such as the XR4x4 sierra (with std wheels on it!) used them as well, but normal sierra alloys usually didn't.

You need these:




not these:




of course all that could be wrong, but I have had a simialr dilemma in the past!


Avoneer - 23/10/05 at 11:38 PM

Hi,

Trouble is, my nut looks like both added together and fits the wheels lovely.

Looks like spacers as I can't find anyone that supplies completely standard Mk2 Escort wheel studs.

Pat... Rescued attachment nut.JPG
Rescued attachment nut.JPG


Rorty - 24/10/05 at 04:18 AM

I'll third what has already been said about cutting new threads on those studs (though I doubt if you physically could!).
I'd definitely stay away from spacers unless you really need them to correct the scrub radius.
Look here to find the nuts that suit your studs and wheels and then order the part number from any retailer.


Avoneer - 24/10/05 at 11:13 AM

This is where I get confused, as these are the genuine original wheels nuts which are fine on the genunie original wheel studs with the genuine original wheels.

My problem is getting hold of the genuine original studs and looks like I'm having to resort to a full new set of studs and a whole new set of nuts.

Sorry, not trying to sound ungrateful for the advice so far.

Pat...


Avoneer - 24/10/05 at 11:15 AM

And I just can't see how new nuts would help - won't they just still screw in as far???

Pat...


Mix - 24/10/05 at 11:27 AM

If you look at NSDev's drawings you will see the upper nut has a clearance for the unthreaded portion.

Or have I lost the thread

Mick


rusty nuts - 24/10/05 at 11:36 AM

Just a thought , would sierra items be any good . I know you have tried after market items but may be worth a look?


Avoneer - 24/10/05 at 06:10 PM

Yep, got various studs and the only one that works is the standard Mk2 escort one.

So the "Ghia" nut parallel bit in front of the conical washer actual slides over a bit of the splined wider secion of the stud?

Pat...

[Edited on 24/10/05 by Avoneer]


Marcus - 24/10/05 at 06:54 PM

Pat,
I've upgraded to longer studs and may still have standard ones. I'll look in the garage this week if you like.

Marcus


Avoneer - 24/10/05 at 07:00 PM

Hi Marcus, if you can find 8, that would be great.

Cheers,

Pat...


Avoneer - 24/10/05 at 07:08 PM

This is the main prob:
The nut is screwed up on a Sierra stud (with big gap when fully tightened) and the standard Mk2 Escort Stud (with hardly any gap when fully tightened). Rescued attachment 1.JPG
Rescued attachment 1.JPG


Avoneer - 24/10/05 at 07:10 PM

But the cone on the nuts I have (Standard Mk2 Escort) is a perfect fit for the wheels. Rescued attachment 2.JPG
Rescued attachment 2.JPG


Avoneer - 24/10/05 at 07:13 PM

Unless the cone is a lot bigger on the "Ghia" nut resulting in the "Ghia" nut cone only half going into the cone seat on the wheel???

As I already have 8 wheel studs, If Marcus can't find any, is there a problem with using the Sierra studs on the back (live axle) with 3mm spacers?

Pat...


NS Dev - 24/10/05 at 11:43 PM

Never looked properly, but I can tomorrow evening if you want?


Avoneer - 25/10/05 at 06:41 AM

Thanks, but I stuck a post in the wanted section and got myself a set of old original ones!

Should have done that to start with!

Cheers,

Pat...