Hi all, can anyone tell me if they foresee any probs making my wishbones out of stainless ie is it to hard and likely to crack under stress over a
period of time the welding is no prob as im a llyods registered welder also would like to use poly bushes so what id is best to fit them
cheers
Ian
oh yeah nearly forgot whats the best way to polish them up after
No answers, prob everyone scared too stick there neck out, I'll risk it.......
I made stainless wishbones, rear trailing arms and panhard rod, they all performed fine for me, i made my own bush's, its that long ago cant
remember size but i reamed tube out to suit.
When i welded them up i did purge them, i seem too remember a big discussion on that too, not sure its necessary to do this but i did anyway.
I could find and scan some pics if you wish i have no digi ones.
I polished them too a mirror finish on a mop with soap.
Rgds Jon.
bit the bullit and made my stainless suspension ,pleased how it came out and best of all it fits!!!!!! also made stainless roll bar and am now in the
throws of making stainless inlet manifold for bike carbs total cost so far for stainless bits £0.00
Rescued attachment PIC00095.jpg
Wow mega nice and shiny. what grade of s/s did u use? If it's a sucsess (spelling) then how many of us would like to have gear like this.
Me for one.
Oh and the price is right so how much for postage
[Edited on 30/9/05 by omega 24 v6]
quote:
Originally posted by jester241uk
total cost so far for stainless bits £0.00
grade of stainless is all 316 got it all from work (shipyard) went bust a couple of years ago but has since been bought and reopened and its all from
stock that has no paperwork so cant use it on ships, to do with insurance from Lloyds i believe but i can use it on my car tho
Unfortunatly i cant do anymore dont think boss would be too pleased didnt mind me having some but "dont take the piss" were his words
Ian
Look really good!
I'm slightly concerned about the strength of you lower wishbones though. The area where the BJ bolts too is just a bit of plate where it joins
the arm tubing.
You sure this is strong enough? There's a lot of strain there.
Cheers,
James
James , i dont think it will be a problem the plate is 6mm thick and i made the plate bigger then slotted the tubes so it sits inside them the tubes
are 5mm thick ,welded continuous all way round, so i think the part for the ball joint should be ok, thanks for your concern tho
cheers
Ian
you shouldn't use 316 it will crack unless you take it and get it anealed.
304 is what you should use for stressed parts
Rgds
Roger
quote:
Originally posted by rocket
you shouldn't use 316 it will crack unless you take it and get it anealed.
304 is what you should use for stressed parts
Rgds
Roger