Yesterday I checked the caster angle of my Fury risulting about 1,5 deg. Isn't it too little? Or it is correct?

Maxx

Only me but I ran at 5 degrees but for all round 3-5 should be ok

On a track, I'd probably see 1.5 degrees virtually vanish under heavy braking.

Seeing 3-5 degrees, or more, would make me happier.

None of this matters if the car is only going to supermarkets and shows.

Thats not a lot/enough; You'd really want 5-7deg. I believe early ones did suffer from this and it depends how old the chassis is and what uprights you have. Later ones are adjustable and some owners have managed to alter early ones to be adjustble.

The adjustment is simply that the rocker arm pivot mountings are further apart and you have spacers washers on the pivot shaft; By moving spacers infront/behind the rocker you increase/decrease the castor. Those that have modded earlier ones have managed it by trimming the rocker arm so it's narrower. There's a limit to how much you can take off though.

There's a description of modding the rocker here (it's on a Striker but very similar)...
https://jpsc.org.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=307

[Edited on 1/10/15 by adithorp]

This evening I will post some photos, but just now your information is very well appreciated.

I will also check for bump steering and how to reduce it. So if you have some suggestions also on this matter...

Many thanks in advance

Maxx

That uprights do you have? I checked my bump steer this summer and it was pretty (very) bad but managed to correct it using a similar (butbigger) spacer than described in JPSC the link.

It's a 2001 IRS lightweigth chassis with Escort modified uprights:




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Looks like you've got plenty of scope to shorten the central tube of the rocker arm by about 10mm at the rear side. Then use washers/spacers to adjust the castor.

Due to the number of issues present in the original chassis I'm fabbricating a new one, so I can introduce some changes if necessary.

Moving back the rocker arm, as suggested, will adjust the caster angle, but will introduce misalineament between the inside end of the rocker arm and the top of the shock. I suppose I have to move back of the same mm also the shock attack to the chassis. What about the engine boot and wheel arches?

Does it worth to modify all the width of the attacks of the suspension elementi to have the chance to adjust the caster angle if/when necessary with some washer?

What about the rear suspension? Modify it in the same way, or it hasn't known problem. I already beefed up the thickness of the lower tubes (45x25x2mm)?

My lower shock mount g is aligned with about the middle of the rocker adjust.ent so mis-alignment is minimal at either extream. I'm now using rose jointed shocks so not an issue. Difference in position is to small to effect bodywork clearance.
I haven't heard of anyone changing the rear. It's fully adjustable anyway... well, all the ones I've seen are.

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Originally posted by adithorp
My lower shock mount g is aligned with about the middle of the rocker adjust.ent so mis-alignment is minimal at either extream. I'm now using rose jointed shocks so not an issue. Difference in position is to small to effect bodywork clearance.
I haven't heard of anyone changing the rear. It's fully adjustable anyway... well, all the ones I've seen are.

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Originally posted by MadMaxx
It's a 2001 IRS lightweigth chassis with Escort modified uprights:




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You have the non-rs uprights which take the smaller bearings, they're usually described as 1300/1600/harrier disc hub wheel bearings.
The larger bearings go with the rs/capri uprights that have separate bolt on steering arms, some jp cars used these from the donor car, afaik the geometry is the same as the smaller model uprights.

Dave

That you very much

Maxx