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Bouncy wheel spin
unijacko67 - 28/10/13 at 11:16 PM

I can do a quick start, but if the wheels lose traction the wheels spin and seems to judder/bounce rather than just spinning out until gripping. This happens in the wet or dry. I have lsd, watt's linkage , equal parallel 4 link bars. I've tried a few damper settings and a couple of different spring rates. Is this just a common thing with the large hp low weight cars or can it be sorted. It's obviously loads worse in the wet. I've just built the car as a total one off so still trying to get the rear springs and damping just right handling wise. Any ideas.

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[Edited on 28/10/13 by unijacko67]


owelly - 28/10/13 at 11:30 PM

I had horriffic axle tramp during launches and dropping the tyre pressures sort of cured it. I say sort of, because then my rear tyres were running a bit softvand getting too hot!


arrow-engineering - 28/10/13 at 11:42 PM

move your bottom link bars up one hole, do the test drive, come back, if still not happy do one more hole up, if still not happy look in the internet about instant centres and squat/anti squat. its very possible from looking at your set up that the power from your car is causing the back end to lift under accel, when you actually want it to sit down and grip.

[Edited on 28/10/13 by arrow-engineering]


unijacko67 - 28/10/13 at 11:50 PM

Thanks, I will try that and report back. I know it can alter how the car handles, but wasn't sure it could alter the way the power goes down. Cheers. I think my tyres where a bit hard also Owelly as I had 30 psi in them dry (ao48's) and dropped it to 24 psi in the wet. Cheers


CNHSS1 - 29/10/13 at 03:11 AM

Id agree, its an anti squat issue. On the hillimbers, a lot of the GTE & Coupe Scimitars really go to tiwn with the trsiling arm angles for anti squat, makes a huge difference!

I too agree you are possibly getting pro-squat. Get a copy of Allan Stanniforths Race and Rall car source book and all will be revealed.

Another issue could be the lsd. I suspect its either plated or atb/torsen? If plated (salisbury type) it could be ramp angles or preload settings although usually there are pointers from other areas (corner entry/exit oddities and noises) but in a new build theres so much going on to be tweaked its difficult to pin down.
ATB diffs such as quaifes, cycle the grip left to right across the axle as they move the torque across from the grippiest tyre until it slips and so on. On sticky slicks, my old atb equipped car would leave 'pulsed' black lines off the start and feel for all the world like axle tramp, but it wasnt.

Id run a video camera under the car and do some hard launches as you can learn a lot from seeing whats going on.

HTH

CNH


snapper - 29/10/13 at 07:02 AM

Would suggest even 24 psi is high for such a light car in the dry
18 to 22 is a better range


owelly - 29/10/13 at 07:36 AM

I run 16psi in the fronts and 20 in the rears. Also be aware that it's possible to over locate the rear axle with anti-squat. Good for launches but bad for cornering!


unijacko67 - 29/10/13 at 08:18 AM

Great info thanks, looks like bottom link bar up a notch and test, tyre pressure also not good. the diff is plated, but I originally thought the ramp angles would need machining as steep for my car weight.

Quote 'pulsed' black lines off the start and feel for all the world like axle tramp. This is exactly what it does, the black lines are even left to right in the dry, about 12" line then miss a bit less then 12" line again. How do I know if I'm over locating the axle?

Will test it tonight, thanks men.


owelly - 29/10/13 at 08:45 AM

Jack up the car using one end of the axle and see if the other end lifts too! You may need to remove the springs or disconnect the coilovers. Unless of course you're using the axle as an anti-roll torsion bar.


froggy - 29/10/13 at 09:17 AM

I run 25in the back if mine with a lot of weight over them .my 4 bar set up uses very long arms running downhill towards the de dion at 5 degrees . I don't have any traction problems but its mid engined


Oddified - 29/10/13 at 12:00 PM

I run 18 - 20psi in the rear with federal rsr's, works very well. If i use them for a bit of rwyb i drop them to 12psi.

Link angles, damper settings and springs are all important but over the years i've found that high pressures and hard ish regular road tyres = loads of axle bounce irrespective of other settings.

Ian


britishtrident - 29/10/13 at 12:32 PM

Tyre pressure is the most likely cure, however looking at the picture the mounting point for the lower link looks like it needs some triangulation to stiffen it.


If you add ant-squat I would raise the forward ends of both upper and lower links rather than just the lower link.


snapper - 29/10/13 at 01:11 PM

From what you've said it sounds like LSD setup is the issue off its pulsing left/right


unijacko67 - 29/10/13 at 02:30 PM

quote:
Originally posted by snapper
From what you've said it sounds like LSD setup is the issue off its pulsing left/right [/quot
Its not pulsing left to right, cheers


unijacko67 - 29/10/13 at 10:00 PM

Tested it tonight by moving the front up on the bottom bar, 1 hole helped and two holes stopped it bouncing totally when I light up the rears. same conditions and pressures as last night so that was the cure for that, I just hope that doesn't have a knock on effect on anything else as the front was pretty good. I think I need less tyre pressure also so can sort that.

Darren Bingley who designed the suspension geometry had said to lift the bars as I've done tonight, but I thought he meant for the handling rather than getting the power down and as I've been struggling with rear springs and shocks I didn't want to alter too much at once, but happy with the results up to now. I've not tested it other than over enthusiastic launches and a bit of wheel spin lock to lock up the main road through the gears but feels much more planted with no bounce. I will check the axle isn't over located tomorrow evening Owelly.

Just out of interest as my axle position is pretty critical as not much slip in the prop I intended to move the bar's up 1 hole and one side at a time, altering the length of the link bar if nessasary to keep the axle in the original position, but found the first hole up only about 1mm tighter and the third hole exactly the same as the lower hole so not sure if that means anything just thought it might be worth a mention.

Thanks again for all the pointers.

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Fred W B - 30/10/13 at 11:12 AM

You could try asking Sebastion Vettel over at Red Bull.

Cheers

Fred W B

P.S. Don't bother asking Mark Webber


unijacko67 - 30/10/13 at 06:04 PM

I didn't really want to pester Seb seeing as he's just clinched the title again, that's why I've asked you chaps.

Looks like there's only one way to find out.