Sierra Brakes from Haynes Manl
[Edited on 7/7/13 by Peteff]
Hi
After trying to adjust the rear shoes and handbrake, I find myself in a whole world of problems. Standard sierra rear shoes and drums. I backed off
the handbrake cable adjuster, removed drums, and now I cant get the drum back on. I cant seem to figure out this adjuster thing that I have to adjust,
looks just like a load of bars and springs. Has anyone got any pictures of the shoe set up or a link to a manual?
Getting a little stressed out with it so stopped for a while, but I'm left with the car in the air, no rear drums or brakes and one stressed out
me......
Any help gratefully appreciated.
Ta
http://images.google.com/search?site=&tbm=isch&source=hp&biw=1280&bih=899&q=sierra+drum+brakes&oq=sierra+drum+brakes&gs_l=
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252Fimages%252Fbl242lib.htm%3B400%3B379
Is this any good to you
Jacko
[Edited on 7/7/13 by jacko]
Just use a small screw driver between the two parts of the self-adjuster ratchet to take the pressure off and let it slip back a bit , centre up the shoes as best you can put the drums back on and pump the pedal a few times to let the self-adjusters work
Somebody put a thread up with pictures here which shows the adjuster. Stick a
screwdriver in between the cam and pin on part M and force it back then give the shoes a tap to centre them.
Sierra Brakes from Haynes Manl
[Edited on 7/7/13 by Peteff]
OK Getting a bit pi$$ed off with this now.
Backed off handbrake cable, backed off adjuster, re-fitted drum, pumped pedal (which seemed to do nothing other than pump pedal) adjusted handbrake
cable back up to 3 clicks fully on (seven clicks in total) can still move rear drum with a bar on the studs
What the bleeding hell am I doing wrong. how can it be so bloody complicated.
Walked away for now as likely to do something stupid.
Any more help or some willing soul to pop round some time would be great. IVA will be paid for this week so one a time scale now.
Ta
A
edited to add, could the adjuster be "back to front" i.e the wrong way round?
[Edited on 7/7/13 by AndyW]
If it's any help, to make sure you have your brakes built correctly, I have photos of the haynes assemblies in my photo archive (both 8" and 9" drums)
quote:
Originally posted by indykid
If it's any help, to make sure you have your brakes built correctly, I have photos of the haynes assemblies in my photo archive (both 8" and 9" drums)
Any luck Andy,
When I had trouble with adjusting the rear drums, I was advised by a old Ford mechanic that they frequently had trouble when servicing Sierras with them not adjusting up automatically as they should do. The secret was to back the adjusters of as little as possible but just enough to get the drum back on. Worked for me and got rid of the long pedal I was having problems with.
Hi
You problem lies with the adjuster being too tight or seized , slaken off handbrake
Dismantle brakes remove adjuster plate, using plenty
wd40 free off snail & wheel, masking sure they rotate freely & the spring is not broken
(dry off obviously ) before refitting shoes ensure the backplate is clean then add a light
smear of hmp grease to 4 points of the backplate where the shoes contact.
refit all including drums,use nuts or the car wheels to ensure drums are on correctly,
pump footbrake quite a few times.
Adjust handbrake, TEST, job done.
Unless the cylinders are leaking & the shoes contaminated, this will fix your problem.
guaranteed , done loads of them when I had the garage.
Good luck.
The pict Peteff posted is correct for 9" nearside , if yours is not the same then they must be 8" sierra which are different.
[Edited on 11/7/13 by renetom]
still not got this sorted, looked at the pic the peteff posted and mine seems back to front and has the adjuster the wrong way round.
My hand brake cable entres from the top so the shoe with the lever must be at the bottom, and my cylinders as you look at the wheel are at the 9
oclock position as per gbs factory set up,
still got sh*t brakes
still got a speedo that cant calibrate
still got no engine temp
VOSA chasing me for IVA money and Im getting further away
completely pi$$ed off now and giving up very soon
Did you check if the new shoes are the dame size as the old ones, there are 3 sizes, 8, 9 and 10 inches.
Hi
Sound to me as if the rear brakes have been assembled completely wrong, if this is the case then what else
has been done wrong, Steering etc etc .
No disrespect but I would seriously suggest you get a skilled person to give you assistance with the build.
Brakes a re seriously important & must be fitted correctly. your life & others are at stake.
I would help but you are too far away.
good luck
René
Dont send the money to VOSA until you are completely sorted , its a lot to loose.
[Edited on 13/7/13 by renetom]
quote:
Originally posted by renetom
Hi
Sound to me as if the rear brakes have been assembled completely wrong, if this is the case then what else
has been done wrong, Steering etc etc .
No disrespect but I would seriously suggest you get a skilled person to give you assistance with the build.
Brakes a re seriously important & must be fitted correctly. your life & others are at stake.
I would help but you are too far away.
good luck
René
Dont send the money to VOSA until you are completely sorted , its a lot to loose.
[Edited on 13/7/13 by renetom]
It sounds like you have fitted the rear brakes swapped left to right which goes at least some of the way explain why you had a long pedal.
I think you need to get some help at least on the brakes and steering.
Post some photos of your set up Andy.
quote:
Originally posted by rusty nuts
Post some photos of your set up Andy.
The adjuster mechanism is at 9 o clock on the first photo, difficult to tell from the photo but it may be the adjuster is not moving freely. I would dismantle the brake shoes one side at a time , free the adjuster cam , reassemble and adjust, that way you have a one side to refer to in case of problems Repeat for second side
I think I have sorted it, assembled and all seems well, going to test tomorrow morning. Thanks Mel,
Hi
From your lower picture & with the cylinder at the top.
(as it should be) you have the offside shoes on the nearside
& viky virky.
The handbrake lever should be behind the shoe as you view it.
I'am surprised the auto adjuster works at all.
But if you have it sorted, good luck with the test.
Not sure I agree, the shoe with the thickest lining is always the leading shoe on Fords with the thinnest lining being the trailing shoe. It
shouldn't matter in the slightest at what position the handbrake lever attaches as long as everything else is in the correct relative position.
My Luego has the cylinders at the bottom and the cables at the top but still work perfectly.
How did you get it sorted Andy
I agree with renetom, the adjuster and the handbrake lever should be mounted on the back of the shoes (between the shoe and back-plate) not on the
outside. You need to swap the shoe with the lever from side to side and re-assemble.
With the cylinder at it's current angle you'll also have to be careful when bleeding as it will tend to hold air in the top piston. Bleed
with the adjusters fully off (always should anyway) to try and reduce that.
the shoes had previously been assembled wrong by the looks and the adjuster faced the back plate when it should face out so you could not release it.
I swapped the top shoe from left to right and with some help from a nice guy on RHOCAR who had a picture form the factory I now have my set up like
this
Description
The pedal seems firmer than before and the handbrake come up three clicks (out of seven) and I tried to rotate the when with the handbrake on and
could not!
Hope its fixed, going to run the car out of the garage today and up and down the drive and try the pedal to see if its actually fixed it.
**One other thing, as my cylinders sit and 3 o'clock on the left and 9 o'clock on the right should the bleed nipple or brake hose be at the
highest point?**
Thanks for all the suggestions and advice, I will let you know later the outcome of the moving test
Not the same as Sierra, but it should work fine now.
Bleed nipple at highest point.
[Edited on 14/7/13 by renetom]
That looks better.
Bleed should be the highest. There will be a possibility of air sitting behind the top piston though. Bleed with the adjuster fully off to put the
pistons as far in as possible and reduce the space the air could be trapped in. If that still leaves any spongyness, bleed it with the drums off by
opening the nipple, pushing the pistons in with screwdrivers, shut bleed and then let the pistons slowly return, open bleed and repeat; That should
expel the trapped air.
Everybody seems to have missed that the handbrake cable end has no springs !
The springs on the cable ends do two things:
(1) They stop the cable disconnecting from the lever.
(2) They push the lever off releasing the brake and by doing this work the self-adjuster.