After going out for the first proper drive of the car, it felt very lose, and not planted when driving in a straight line

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JhSQGvjZAbo&feature=youtu.be


Noticed I have movement/ play in the column itself

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10151659993862975&set=o.216873108313&type=2&theater


Anyone know if the insides are adjustable or serviceable?

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10151660018517975&set=o.216873108313&type=2&theater

Could be that the preload needs setting, does the preload adjuster have a nut top or the recessed type screw?

Black plastic recessed type screw... Looks around 25mm or there abouts

I have used a piece of 3mm steel as a big screwdriver in the past, from corner to corner across the hexagon,or a bolt with same size head and 2 nuts. See if it will screw in, may be tight, if it feels bottomed unscrew completely, there should be a spring and pad underneath, these push the gears into mesh.
If screwing these down doesn't get rid of the play, rack may be fubared.
A good drawing here

Cheers boss, we had no luck, we knocked up a 21mm allen key but it was tight tight, couldn't move it either way... as it had been peened into position in three places.

I'll probably end up getting a new pinion & rack to fit into it

Sorry about that. Just to add to your woes, it has probably been shortened by MK, so you will need to get a new rack shortened.
Have you tried to dremel the peening out?

To be fair all my efforts were with the rack in situ lol

I'll whip the rack off and have a good look at it on the bench ... Probably after Stoneleigh now lol

Have you tried tightening the pinion retaining nut?

Words and pictures......


Sierra Rack

Phil

quote:

---

Originally posted by Hellfire
Have you tried tightening the pinion retaining nut?

Words and pictures......


Sierra Rack

Phil

---

Surprise surprise its back in bits again...

Just nipped down the garage to have a look at the pinion adjustment nut



Whipped the rack off



Bit of a struggle, but managed to undo the pinion adjustment nut



Bearing inside holds the pinion centralised, as the slipper spring holds the tension down onto the rack



No real signs of wear on the teeth of the pinion itself





Nor the rack innards...




So built it all back up again, and its made sod all difference - still loads of play, but only when there is load on it, ie: the car down on the floor... when in the air, it has no play

I'm thinking the bearing may be shot and needs replacing, as the pinion moves in and out slightly when you go lock to lock, which I'm pretty sure shouldn't happen...

Did you get the preload adjuster free, while it was on the bench? It is possible that either the spring has broken, or was not fitted after the rack was shortened. And you do have a shortened rack by the way.

I knew I should have after I refitted it, but no I didn't get the slipper adjustment freed up annoyingly.

Stupid of me, but it was nearly midnight and I was knackered, shouldn't have started the job.

You're right, the spring could be wrong, snapped, coilbound or even not there!!!

Regarding my rack, I'm not sure, can you tell from the pics?

Definitely a shortened rack. Is the play definitely within the rack and pinion, or could it simply be worn balljoints on the track rods (or even track rod ends)?

Problem solved!

Here's the breakdown, kinda difficult to explain.

Removed the rack again, removed the pinion adjuster sleeve, and the circlip and the bearing.

Then removed the plastic 21mm slipper nut, spring and slipper itself.

Not much wear on the Quaife item itself, but all the movement was from in between the bearing and the circlip. I thought when you tighten the pinion adjustment sleeve up that it'd clamp the bearing nice and tight, it doesn't.

Two ways to cure would be to get a thicker circlip, which would eliminate the play, but it already fills the groove nicely.

So we replaced the bearing just because we could, then put a shim in between the bearing and the circlip which removed all lateral movement.

We followed the Haynes manual in setting it up, but with it being shortened and new innards we took the process principle, but adjusted it by feel.

We put the rack in the car, and put all the steering back on the could adjust the 21mm slipper plug in situ whilst wobbling the steering wheel so there was next to no movement.

Obviously the tighter you go the more wear on the pinion and rack you will create, it also leads to a heavy steering car. So feels smoother with it loose, and less gratey but then there is movement.

I've jeopardised the smoothness of the lock to lock transition for a right rack, everyone loves a tight rack, right?

[Edited on 2/5/13 by yellowcab]

Brilliant! glad you got it sorted

Cheers Inches...

I must add though, I've not driven it yet lol

So it may all still be Pete Tong! lol

Don't make it too tight! Self centering was much improved on my car after backing off the preload on the slipper as far as it could without introducing play. Steering feedback also needs a loose rack.

As always: racks need to be balanced ;-)

Wow what a difference - Sebastianianianian is right... I've now over tightened the slipper slightly, as it no longer self centres, and it makes it incredibly heavy to turn whilst stationary.

That said - I would sooner drive it like this all day long than have the play... but I will be backing it off as much as I can before introducing play as Seb said above

Cheers for all your help guys, feel so planted and solid to drive now

No reason whatsoever for these photos, other than the fact I bloody love driving the car in this weather


Description

Brakes work... oops!


Description

[Edited on 2/5/13 by yellowcab]