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if it's like this just pull the flange off ( this is the part that makes contact with the bearing surfaces ) it will be tight, then the centre (1st picture ) will pull straight out
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I've got some disk brake Sierra rear hubs which had been removed from the driveshafts etc when I got them.
I want to strip them down so I can properly clean everything, fit new seals etc but in the Sierra manual it talks about using a puller on the drive
flange with the puller's central bolt bearing on the end of the drive shaft.
As my hubs are already off the shafts I can't do this so what's the best way to get them off. I've not tried anything yet but tapping
the flange with a mallet seems a bit crude.
John.
Either multi leg puller, OR, as you have already said, undo nut (LARGE lever against alternate studs and large breaker bar on nut) then supporting
drive flange (either in vice or by hand) use suitably large taps from copper/hide mallet. Personally I have usually used the latter method and not had
a problem. HTH
JGG.
quote:
Originally posted by jollygreengiant
Either multi leg puller, OR, as you have already said, undo nut (LARGE lever against alternate studs and large breaker bar on nut) then supporting drive flange (either in vice or by hand) use suitably large taps from copper/hide mallet. Personally I have usually used the latter method and not had a problem. HTH
JGG.
quote:
Originally posted by phelpsa
He says that the driveshafts are already out. That means that its only the bearings and seals holding it in. They can be a PITA if you get them misaligned. You should be able to lift them out by hand. If the bearings and seals are being replaced and the outer bearing is stuck on the hub then just knock it out from the back through the seal and remove the bearing afterwards.
[Edited on 8-12-11 by phelpsa]
As above a complete PITA when stripped down that far, you need to find a way of locking the the hub and then removing the nut, then nut is torqued on
good style I usually use a big hammer and chisel untill it shocks free then remove as normal, remember one is R/H thread the other is L/H thread.
tony
quote:
Originally posted by Chippy
quote:
Originally posted by phelpsa
He says that the driveshafts are already out. That means that its only the bearings and seals holding it in. They can be a PITA if you get them misaligned. You should be able to lift them out by hand. If the bearings and seals are being replaced and the outer bearing is stuck on the hub then just knock it out from the back through the seal and remove the bearing afterwards.
[Edited on 8-12-11 by phelpsa]
As they are disc brake hubs then the shafts he is refering to are the bolt on ones, still leaving the hub nut and the outer drive shafts still in the hub. So what the "Jolly Grean Giant" said is pretty much on the money. Cheers Ray
Is he therefore trying to pull it from the inside ( were the 6 bolts holding the are driveshaft ) otherwise you should be able to get the jaws on the
carrier and push the stub out
tony
[Edited on 9/12/11 by mad-butcher]
Probably haven't explained it very well.
The drive shaft which includes the stub shaft is already off so all I have is the bearing carrier which has 4 fixing holes plus 2 where I believe the
caliper mounts plus the drive flange.
As I see it the drive flange is located in the bearing carrier by two bearings and if the assembly was still on a car you could remove the large nut
from the end of the splined drive shaft and put a puller around the outside diameter of the drive flange with the jacking bolt bearing on the end of
the drive shaft.
When you tighten the jacking screw I assume it would try to push the splined drive shaft out of the drive flange assembly but because the shaft
couldn't move inwards it would actually pull the flange off.
Because I don't have the shaft in place in the centre of the flange is just a splined bore.
At present I think I will have to bolt the bearing carrier to a plate so I have something for the jacking bolt of the puller to press against.
The bore of bearings is, I take it, a press fit on the spigot which I assume is on the back of the drive shaft and also a press fit in the housing
which is why it won't simply tap off or am I missing something?
John.
if it's stripped down this far it's only held by the rear oil seal
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if it's like this just pull the flange off ( this is the part that makes contact with the bearing surfaces ) it will be tight, then the centre
(1st picture ) will pull straight out
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Mad Butcher,
Thanks for the photos.
It's exactly like Picture 2 but without the stub shaft.
I may be being a bit stupid but I can't see how to pull the flange off unless I rig up something fixed to the carrier to replace the stub shaft
so the puller can bear on it. As you say it's obviously too tight to just tap off.
John.
Do you have a 2 leg puller?
With the hub sitting as it is in picture 1 use your 2 leg puller to push the shaft out the housing, so the legs of the puller will be on the housing
and the you'll need to put something such as a socket on top of the shaft for the puller to press against.
Davie
OK you're trying to get from this
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To this
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[Edited on 9/12/11 by mad-butcher]
Exactly!
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quote:
Originally posted by mad-butcher
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Thanks everyone.
Much easier to understand with the photos. Should have thought about using the centre bolt of the puller to push the shaft out myself!
John.