Hi all, new here and got a few questions

how many of you are running rosejoint wisbones etc?

I am primarily looking at this method as it makes connection to the main frame easier for me, and as my build will have all this fully exposed it will look nice.


BUT how long will these last in real life on the roads?

and what sizes are you running

I had priced up bushes, crushtubes, tube for the bush etc etc and the difference was negligable, if anything it was a bit cheaper to run with rosejoints

main frame/spine of the trike is designed and planned to be 1.5" 10g CDS tube, with 1.25" 12g CDS tube for the rear frame and the wishbones.

I like them strong LOL

Quality of the joints is everything --- cheap joints don't last

I purchased 1/2" cheap jobs from Mcgill, tightened up the front steering, noticeable difference I just need to do the rear now as it has made this feel loose.

Just used on the track so do not have a clue on longevity, Westfields have a smaller size than this.

I just spray with bike chain grease occasionally to cut down wear.

For me good choice, on the road really do not know probally a bit more bumpy!

Me
Rescued attachment wishbones.jpg

And steering arms
Rescued attachment steering.JPG

Not sure I would use them on the road (many do) I guess it depends on how many miles you will do, they should not last as long as the bushes (if you use stainless crush tubes). Like others above quality is a problem, and on road car they need to deal with road salt, dirt/grit ect..

Like you say using bushes requires them to be aligned and makes life a little more difficult, but nothing that a jig cant fix (and if you do this you can swap between spherical bearings and bushes by making new bones)..

Dan

Dan

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Originally posted by lsdweb
And steering arms

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quote:

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Originally posted by TimC

quote:

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Originally posted by lsdweb
And steering arms

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Some of us have been looking at these same old pics for 18 months Chap!

Yawn.

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I used the rubber boots on my Autograsser, very low milage compared to a kit on the road but much more movement & higher shock loads & never had a problem, the boots kept them clean inside.
However, if one of your reasons for using rosejoints is because they look good, well the boots dont really! Adds more expense & a bugger to fit too!

quote:

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Some of us have been looking at these same old pics for 18 months Chap

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Another advantage to rose joints is when you crash.... they will snap rather than ripping the brackets off the chassis etc, this make for a cheaper easier repair job...

Just need some meaty for my 4x4 rear arms and jobs a guddin...

Anyone know a good cheap supply for good quality parts?

[Edited on 8/4/10 by coozer]

ok cool thanks guys

I am at the laying things out and designing stage at the moment, but taking the opportunity to squirrel some money away and buy goodies without the wife noticing LOL

currently working out what sort of geometry for the rear wishbones, and angles for shafts and the like

as this is bike engined, the diff will be upside down.

I found this company and they seemed reasonable to me, but Im not 100% sure of the specs on the joints, hence joining this forum

these are what I have my eye on
http://www.mcgillmotorsports.co.uk/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=543

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Originally posted by tony-devon
as this is bike engined, the diff will be upside down.

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on shaft drive bike engines the shafts generally exit on the left of the motor, and the shaft will rotate the opposite direction to a car ie clockwise when you look at it from directly behind, if it exits on the right of the engine, you dont need to flip the diff over. to do with the fact that you have a 90 degree bevel box at the back wheel

sorry to bring this back up again, but looks like its time to sort out this matter for my project and make some decisions

LSDWEB could you tell me please what size them joints are on your setup

IM going to buy the rear uprights, but make the wishbones and frame myself, so until I got all the dimensions etc I cant begin to work things out

I will be starting with a max overall width, then working inboard from there.

for MSVA go over 1600 wide and its a right royal pain in the bum

aiming for 1550mm just to give some margin for tyres etc