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Bumps stops...
dhutch - 20/9/09 at 10:09 PM

The way the rear of the westfeild is currently the firs thing to bottom out is the diff input flange against the chassis rail which is clearly not clever, and maybe even why the diff now whines.

I now have new rear dampers (protech's) which a big diffrence to the likely hood of it bottoming out compaired to the old dampers which where basicaly empty, however its on my mind as something to sort.

There shocks have rubber doughnuts as bump stops but these dont come into plat soon enough. Merlin do c-shaped shims to go on the shaft, but is there any reason i cant just get a block of nylon and turn it down to about the same shape of the rubber doughnut and of the right thickness that i can add it onto the shaft to give me the right spacing?



Daniel

mark chandler - 20/9/09 at 10:21 PM

I dropped some landrover shock bushes on mine as the wheel just kissed the arch.

link

at 19p each they do not break the bank.

Regards Mark Rescued attachment shock.jpeg
Rescued attachment shock.jpeg

snapper - 20/9/09 at 10:22 PM

Live axle?
Shocks wont stop it bottoming out but stronger springs will.

Years ago the German low rider look meant that bump stops were more important than springs, but only to protect the rest of the car from being battered to death by the suspension.

You need more suspension travel or stronger springs.
Nothing worse than hitting the bump stops in a 7 cause by then it will only bounce or slide

ReMan - 21/9/09 at 03:47 AM

Yes, bump stops should not be considered part of the normal suspension operation. Purley there to avoid damage in emergencys/landings over hump back bridges

Staple balls - 21/9/09 at 04:06 AM

I'd've thought harder springs, or rising rate springs would be the way to do it. (though I'm probably wrong)

Bump stops should be there to stop metal on metal contact.

[Edited on 21/9/09 by Staple balls]

procomp - 21/9/09 at 06:50 AM

Hi

No need to alter spring rate or add extra bump stops. There is a problem either with the ride height or the size of the input flange if thats what is making contact. On the Westfield liveaxle setup only the smallest input flange is to be used. The other two larger sizes will give problems. What is the ride height with driver onboard under the chassis where the rear chassis brackets are ?.

Cheers Matt

britishtrident - 21/9/09 at 07:46 AM

With no springs fitted the bump stops should be big enough just stop the wheels fouling the arches or any part of car touching the ground. ---- and of course your propshaft making metal to metal contact with the chassis.

They should also stop the suspension travel before the coils of the springs run out of travel.

As Mark Chandler already suggested Landrover rubber bushes are a cheap easy effective answer although damper manufacturers will also sell you puka rubbers for the job.

dhutch - 21/9/09 at 09:24 AM

quote:
Originally posted by ReManYes, bump stops should not be considered part of the normal suspension operation. Purley there to avoid damage in emergencys/landings over hump back bridges
Yes clearly, thats what im aiming for.

quote:
Originally posted by britishtridentWith no springs fitted the bump stops should be big enough just stop the wheels fouling the arches or any part of car touching the ground. ---- and of course your propshaft making metal to metal contact with the chassis.
Yes exactly, which is what they dont quite do now.

The OP was written lateish last night so maybe its not as clear as it should be. When i bought the car it had very worn dampers which meant you had to be very careful on undulating roads and humped bridges and just in general. The car now has a pair of protechs, from procomp, on the rear which are with the spring rate suggested my matt is spot on and which works very well.

Since i fitted the new shocks ive not had any problems with the car trying to hit the bumpstops or bottom out. But as the geometry and shock length is still similar to what it is, if i removed the springs, i still find that the first thing to hit is the diff. By which time the chassis is on the floor and the wheels mm from the arches.

This is a live axled car, yes. (westfeild se with english)

I dont need much more becuase its almost at the rubber bush supplied with the protech's , but i just need another 10-15mm or so. Which as per the enquiry, i was wondering if i could make from a small block of nylon turned up on the lathe. Or even just drilled out of a 10mm sheet with a hole saw. Rather than buy expensive c-spacers or add more rubber bushes. (although i expect the landrover part is fairly hard sure rubber?)


Daniel