mad-butcher
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posted on 21/11/08 at 10:09 AM |
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SVA position on old style exhaust clamps
Failing welding the silencer to the front pipes the circular type clamp won't tighten up enough to stop silencer rotating, so I've got to
use one of the old style exhaust clamps, to try and cut down the sharp edge I'm in the process of welding a plate on as photo (sorry about the
quality) if I then radius the edges will he accept this. opinions please
Rescued attachment exhaust clamp.JPG
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pewe
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posted on 21/11/08 at 10:15 AM |
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Looks OK to me.
I used exhaust paste to round off any sharp edges and that passed without comment.
Presumably the nuts are in-board of the pipe?
Cheers, Pewe
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dinosaurjuice
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posted on 21/11/08 at 10:16 AM |
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as long as the radius' are more than required (3mm??) then youll be fine. not sure about the nuts and thread poking out... is it possible to
point this at the ground?
I used those type clamps on the exhaust of a trike i built, stopped all exhaust leaks and took a lot of flex out the system. shame there isnt a better
looking alternative though...
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ReMan
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posted on 21/11/08 at 10:39 AM |
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If the nice clamp you have won't tighten it enough I woukl try either slotting further or wrapping some really thin sheet round the pipe. use an
old tin can cut up or someting like.
If you have to use that horis clamp, wrap it in heatreplecting cloth for SVA
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robinj66
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posted on 21/11/08 at 11:28 AM |
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Once upon a time I would have said that common sense would prevail and the SVA man would let that go. however , on recent experience I would suggest
you use exhaust heatwrap to cover those nasty sharp edges
My clamps were a fail
[img][/img]
and had to be bandaged (presumably so that if i did cut any passer-by I would be able to administer first aid )
[img][/img]
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BenB
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posted on 21/11/08 at 11:54 AM |
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I used a jubilee clip (a bit poxy but it works) and just put the screw bit of it on in the "inside" aspect of the silencer so he
couldn't get his ball type thing in contact with it. Passed without comment (even at the first super strict SVA where they failed me on
everything they didn't bat an eyelid)....
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David Jenkins
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posted on 21/11/08 at 12:15 PM |
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I used a clamp similar to this:
Link to M&P
Mine was made by Mikalor, or a similar name - bit larger than the ones shown in the piccy.
It clamps well, and the knobbly bits can be tucked out of the way of the tester's sphere.
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JeffHs
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posted on 21/11/08 at 04:10 PM |
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Do you need to clamp it at all? I'm using a Robin Hood exhaust and silencer. I stuck the 2 together using exhaust silicone. The silencer is
fixed with a 3 bolt flange so it can't rotate and the joint gives no problems at all. It comes to bits easily too if you should need to
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