Badger_McLetcher
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| posted on 13/9/20 at 01:48 PM |
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IVA Time! Pre-IVA Pictures
After having loitered here for a good ten years or so, and having spent about 7 of those building the Haynes Roadster, I've finally got an IVA
test date.
To say I am apprehensive is an understatement! I'm pretty realistic about failing the first time, but would like to keep it as small a fail as
possible.
I'm hoping that the Locostbuilders collective can have a look over the pictures below and point out any glaring errors I've made - any
advice is gratefully received.
Also let me apologize for the quality of some of the images; I am patently no photographer!
Without further ado, let me introduce you to the Banshee:
I've just realised that the pictures don't show it very well but the exhausts end in 90 degree bends angled down towards the road, so the
gasses don't go near the wings.
One of my main areas of concern are the lambda sensors; I cocked up when welding the exhausts up, got the left and right exhausts mixed up and the
lean-in turned into a lean-out  . Also I'm not sure whether the covering in exhaust wrap will work to counter the sharp-edges issue?
I'm not sure what else I could do, barring building a cover for them.
Cheers,
Ben
If disfunction is a function, then I must be some kind of genius.
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Deckman001
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| posted on 13/9/20 at 03:08 PM |
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First one i looked for is the one I was told about, your side repeaters will fail where they are due to not being able to see them from 5 degrees from
the rear. The new place most people put them either on the front cycle wing side, rear arch front top side or some have put indicator including wing
mirrors as the scuttle side is not guaranteed i think.
Jason
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ianhurley20
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| posted on 13/9/20 at 03:20 PM |
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Agreed about the side repeaters - I covered the nuts on front ball joints and track rod ends with a 3 layers of butyl pond liner which was held on by
a cable tie although most cover them with electrical cable joint covers that are sold by CBS GBS etc. The sharp edges on my exhaust (and my manifold
and cat) I wrapped with 50mm heat wrap which the examiner was happy with.
Good luck with IVA
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adithorp
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| posted on 13/9/20 at 03:39 PM |
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Dash lower edge radius? The boot/door edge seal is an unusual way of padding it so not sure how that will be viewed. I seem to remember something
like, if it was padded instead of radiused, it should not be possible to feel anything through the padding by pressing on it.
Side repeaters will fail were they are as the rear arches will obscure them.
Are the cable tie bases secured by more than just sticky pad as that's been an issue others have had.
Nice to see a bit of a different take on a Seven... Thought I'd be concerned about not being seen.
[Edited on 13/9/20 by adithorp]
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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Badger_McLetcher
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| posted on 13/9/20 at 03:54 PM |
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Thanks for the replies guys, much appreciated!
Just to clarify, the side repeaters are mounted on top of the rear wheel arches, the big amber bits under the roll cage are just reflectors. Now
I'm wondering if the side repeaters are too small?
Ian - that's some good tips there, I think I'll follow your lead on the ball joint / track rod end front. Reassuring to hear that the
heat wrap approach is acceptable!
adithorp - With the dash lower radius, I passed a core of round rubber up through the central void to make it firmer and stop it wrinkling on the
sharp radii, so you can't feel the edge. Hopefully that'll pass 
The cable tie bases are all riveted to the structure as well - the exception being on the inside of the rear wheel arches where they are glued in
using excessive amounts of sikaflex as I didn't really want to rivet through the wing. If it's the difference between a pass or a fail
though that drill and rivet gun will be out faster than you can blink!
If disfunction is a function, then I must be some kind of genius.
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Badger_McLetcher
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| posted on 13/9/20 at 03:56 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by adithorp
Nice to see a bit of a different take on a Seven... Thought I'd be concerned about not being seen.
[Edited on 13/9/20 by adithorp]
Hehe well I'm a sucker for dark greens as it turns out! Kinda fits in with a rough WW2 fighter-y theme 
If disfunction is a function, then I must be some kind of genius.
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ianhurley20
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| posted on 13/9/20 at 03:59 PM |
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If you have the repeaters on the rear wheel arches they will probably be too far from the front of the vehicle. I followed someone who did an IVA
before mine and the examiner told me they would not be ok and showed me the page in the iva manual, can't remember the distance but he was
right, I moved them to the front wheel arches for the test
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gremlin1234
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| posted on 13/9/20 at 04:22 PM |
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I concur with the concerns of the indicators, and I am not sure you can have side reflectors in that position on a short vehicle.
the other thing that might be an issue is your fuel filler: the roof might put that (and maybe even the tank) within the passenger area.
but maybe it has its own sealed bulkhead on the inside of the bodywork?
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Badger_McLetcher
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| posted on 13/9/20 at 05:34 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by ianhurley20
If you have the repeaters on the rear wheel arches they will probably be too far from the front of the vehicle. I followed someone who did an IVA
before mine and the examiner told me they would not be ok and showed me the page in the iva manual, can't remember the distance but he was
right, I moved them to the front wheel arches for the test
That's a fair point; I just checked the manual and it's 2.6m from the front of the vehicle. I think I did take that into account (which
is why they're quite far forwards on the wing) but I'll remeasure to be sure - Ta!
quote:
Originally posted by gremlin1234
I concur with the concerns of the indicators, and I am not sure you can have side reflectors in that position on a short vehicle.
the other thing that might be an issue is your fuel filler: the roof might put that (and maybe even the tank) within the passenger area.
but maybe it has its own sealed bulkhead on the inside of the bodywork?
Just double checked on the side reflectors, it looks like they're optional for vehicles such as ours (i.e. <6m length). Conflictingly it
states that "at least one side-reflector fitted to the middle third of the vehicle" and then below that "the distance between the
rearmost side- reflector and the rear of the vehicle shall not exceed 1 m". These seem contradictory; I assume the latter one only applies if
there's more than one side reflector. It may just be easier to remove them and avoid the whole issue!
You know, I hadn't even considered that regarding the fuel tank! Luckily there is an aluminium structure which covers the hose, which is
sealed and bonded to the rear deck and has a bolted joint against the lower aluminium section; I'll fit a rubber seal in there and that will
hopefully sort that. Nice catch!
Thanks for your comments so far guys, it's given me a few things I need to check already that I hadn't thought of myself
If disfunction is a function, then I must be some kind of genius.
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adithorp
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| posted on 13/9/20 at 05:46 PM |
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Think you'll be ok with sikaflex bonding on the mounts. I have some ally strips bonded under the Fury bonnet that the headlight loom is tied to
and they passed (sva but same rule). It's the sticky backing they don't trust as secure.
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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Mr Whippy
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| posted on 13/9/20 at 06:17 PM |
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I can't see any edging on the front part of the cycle wings
On the rear light mounting it looks looks like the front edge is raised an a bit sharp.
Nice car
Once you've passed can I have your sierra steering wheel?
[Edited on 13/9/20 by Mr Whippy]
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CosKev3
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| posted on 13/9/20 at 08:05 PM |
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Are the front indicators ok there for vision angles?
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Slater
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| posted on 13/9/20 at 09:16 PM |
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Nice car! good to see something a bit different too.
Think you need a pair of machine gun barrels poking out from the bonnet bulge, WWII fighter plane stylee.
Do the front damper spring adjuster rings have any sharp edges? If so just use a length of convoluted cable sleeving with a tie wrap inside around
the circumference of the damper just below the adjuster, this will prevent the "sphere" contacting the sharp bits. Mark at MAC#1 called
this a cock ring!!!
Why do they call Port Harcourt "The Garden City"?...... Becauase they can't spell Stramash.
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Deckman001
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| posted on 13/9/20 at 10:27 PM |
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 Just a thought, generally,aren't the front wishbones meant to be a front and back of an area that doesn't get checked ?
Jason
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Mr Whippy
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| posted on 14/9/20 at 03:58 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Deckman001
Just a thought, generally,aren't the front wishbones meant to be a front and back of an area that doesn't get checked ?
Jason
Yes the area enclosed by the wishbones is exempt from the test
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gremlin1234
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| posted on 14/9/20 at 06:12 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Mr Whippy
quote:
Originally posted by Deckman001
Just a thought, generally,aren't the front wishbones meant to be a front and back of an area that doesn't get checked ?
Jason
Yes the area enclosed by the wishbones is exempt from the test
although they are 'exempt'/ 'not tested' it's better to err on the side of safety
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Badger_McLetcher
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| posted on 14/9/20 at 07:17 PM |
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Thanks for the replies, points and complements guys! Going through down the page, here's what I've got:
quote:
Originally posted by Mr Whippy
I can't see any edging on the front part of the cycle wings
On the rear light mounting it looks looks like the front edge is raised an a bit sharp.
Nice car
Once you've passed can I have your sierra steering wheel?
[Edited on 13/9/20 by Mr Whippy]
Another one for the work list, thanks You're right on the rear lights but I've already put edging around them, so hopefully
they'll be OK.
And yep, no worries - on the proviso it gets passed on to the next person who needs one when you're done with it
quote:
Originally posted by CosKev3
Are the front indicators ok there for vision angles?
They are with the wheels straight ahead, which I was given to understand is how it is tested. If they are tested with the wheels pointing in a
different direction it may get a bit more difficult!
quote:
Originally posted by Slater
Nice car! good to see something a bit different too.
Think you need a pair of machine gun barrels poking out from the bonnet bulge, WWII fighter plane stylee.
Do the front damper spring adjuster rings have any sharp edges? If so just use a length of convoluted cable sleeving with a tie wrap inside around
the circumference of the damper just below the adjuster, this will prevent the "sphere" contacting the sharp bits. Mark at MAC#1 called
this a cock ring!!!
Haha I did consider something like that, but thought I'd go for something a little more subtle like a Morgan 3 wheeler look 
That's not a bad call to be fair - anything I can do to pre-empt testing issues is worth trying IMO.
quote:
Originally posted by Deckman001
Just a thought, generally,aren't the front wishbones meant to be a front and back of an area that doesn't get checked ?
Jason
quote:
Originally posted by Mr Whippy
Yes the area enclosed by the wishbones is exempt from the test
quote:
Originally posted by gremlin1234
although they are 'exempt'/ 'not tested' it's better to err on the side of safety
I tend to agree with gremlin - it won't cost me anything to cover the bits up, and if it's something less the IVA inspector has to
consternate over it's probably worth doing
Once again, thank you for your responses guys! I feel slightly less nervous now that nothing humongous has instantly popped up, and thanks for all
the complements on the car - I was aiming for something a bit different (I'm cussed that way ) and appear to have achieved it
Cheers,
Ben
If disfunction is a function, then I must be some kind of genius.
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CorseChris
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| posted on 14/9/20 at 08:11 PM |
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Interesting car! And I mean that in a good way 
Rear lights again - make sure you can see at least half of the visible area of the rear light from a 45 degree angle to the side - not sure from the
pictures, but it may be they are too masked by the rear structure where they are. (had this issue on my current project, it was marginal so I put a
spacer in to move the light unit back a bit - yet to complete it and book an IVA)
Glass, front and rear - is it suitably marked for compliance with the required standards?
[Edited on 14/9/20 by CorseChris]
[Edited on 14/9/20 by CorseChris]
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BenBrooks
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| posted on 14/9/20 at 08:24 PM |
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You may have to put a bit of u trim on your roll cage front mounting brackets (on the round tubing). Tis what I had to do.
Have you got the receipt for your seatbelt bolts? Or have you checked they have markings on them to confirm their rating?
They look similar to the ones I had and they were not accepted by the tester. I had to swap them out for stronger rated bolts and provide
receipt/proof of this.
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Mr Whippy
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| posted on 14/9/20 at 08:45 PM |
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quote:
Once you've passed can I have your sierra steering wheel?
[Edited on 13/9/20 by Mr Whippy]
Another one for the work list, thanks You're right on the rear lights but I've already put edging around them, so hopefully they'll
be OK.
And yep, no worries - on the proviso it gets passed on to the next person who needs one when you're done with it [/Quote]
Yip absolutely, my car came with a nice steering wheel but there's no way it will pass the IVA but will be going right back on again afterwards
Let me know and I'll pay the postage thanks
[Edited on 14/9/20 by Mr Whippy]
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Deckman001
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| posted on 14/9/20 at 09:42 PM |
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Hi ya, one other thing I was told about when I asked people about my car, make sure the fog light doesn't come back on if the switch was left on
while the lights are turned off and back on the fog light shouldn't come straight back on, it needs to be reset by it's original switch
before it comes back on.
CBS have a relay switch that copes with that update since 2015.
Jason
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SteveWalker
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| posted on 14/9/20 at 10:37 PM |
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I think that that requirement was removed.
The IVA manual talks about having a tell-tale and:
"The rear fog lamp(s) must only illuminate when dipped beam, main beam or front fog lamps are lit (see alternatives in Notes 3 and 4).
Note 3: front fog lamps may be illuminated with the side lamps only.
Note 4: Either of the following scenarios will also be considered acceptable:
1) The rear fog lamp(s) may continue to operate until the position lamps are switched off, and the rear fog
lamp(s) must then remain off until deliberately switched on again or,
2) An audible warning, additional to the mandatory telltale light, must be activated if the ignition is switched off or the ignition key is withdrawn
and the driver's door is opened, whether the lamps in (RS4) are on or off, whilst the rear fog lamp switch is in the "on"
position."
As those notes are "alternatives", then the fog lights only working while dipped beam, main beam or front fog lamps are lit seems to be
the only requirement.
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Mr Whippy
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| posted on 15/9/20 at 06:04 AM |
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Ever get the impression the IVA was written by a bunch of grumpy old gits...?
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nickm
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| posted on 15/9/20 at 07:18 PM |
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Hi
I could be wrong but doesnt the fog light have to be within the distance of X on the drivers side ?
Might be worth checking
Good luck
Nick M
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SteveWalker
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| posted on 15/9/20 at 07:42 PM |
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No, a fog lamp can be anywhere from the middle of the car outwards, on the driver's side (but not too close to the brake light). If there are
two, then they must be symmetrical.
Many manufacturers choose the middle, so that they can get away with one light and the same position for left and right hand drive vehicles. I was
somewhat confused with my own tin-top as it has two lights, one either side and even has a bulb in both, but the nearside one didn't work. At
first I thought it was faulty, but there were no wires to the nearside!
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