My application has been sent to the test centre so I have got to phone on Monday and make an appointment. I think/hope I am nearly ready, but I would
appreciate comments on anything that looks like it needs fixing up before the test. Pics to follow.
btw, before anyone questions it, the rear lights are within regulations for height, distance from the edges and separation (not sure about angles of
vision but I can move them to have a vertical face if necessary).
[Edited on 24.09.2005 by Humbug]
Rescued attachment 2005-09-24 2 Locost front suspension.JPG
Dash
Rescued attachment 2005-09-24 5 Locost dash.jpg
Rear.
I tried to put some covering on the harness triangles but herringbone trim is a bugger to try to mitre and they are so close to the boot cover that it
is difficult to get it to stay on. I think I have seen pictures of other people's cars with no trim on the triangles for SVA so I might risk
it.
[Edited on 24.09.2005 by Humbug]
Rescued attachment 2005-09-24 7 Locost rear.jpg
Exhaust, manifold, silencer, etc.
Is the exhaust clamp OK? I have got a stainless one but it has raised sharpish edges so I put on a standard U clamp instead.
[Edited on 24.09.2005 by Humbug]
Rescued attachment 2005-09-24 11 Locost exhaust.jpg
Seats - I have removed the squabs and put in some camping roll foam instead. I think it's still a bit close for the height of the top harness
mount, but there's not much more I can take off!
Rescued attachment 2005-09-24 12 Locost seats.jpg
Pedal area - brake bar has pins though both sides. Bolt head is a stop for the clutch
Rescued attachment 2005-09-24 13 Locost pedals.jpg
Engine side of scuttle
Rescued attachment 2005-09-24 14 Locost engine bay.jpg
Engine
Rescued attachment 2005-09-24 15 Locost engine bay.jpg
Exhaust clip IMO fail.
Unsecured wires in engine bay.
Bonnet exhaust surround looks suspect...
Very original build - well done!
Hi
Car looks great 
You might have to put a P clip on the battery cables, that was one of my fail points. Are you planning to cover the exhaust flange? and you may need
to change the clamp you've used for the silencer
Also how have you pinned the balance bar? I was told to fit nuts either side and pin them, leaving just enough clearance for the bar to still rotate
as you press the pedal
Adrian
I believe there's some ambiguity of the use of stainless braided flexi-lines for the brakes (something to do with not being able to see if
it's split/damaged and likely to leak fluid). I also think you need to make sure that they can't be trapped (e.g. in the suspension coils),
stretched (e.g. when the wheel is on full lock), or rubbed (e.g. on the tyre!).
Otherwise, everything else looks fine!
if the rear view mirror is only held on with the suction cup, that's a fail.
tom
quote:
Originally posted by Hellfire
Exhaust clip IMO fail.
Unsecured wires in engine bay.
Bonnet exhaust surround looks suspect...
Very original build - well done!
Brake balance bar - I have pinned it through the centres of the round things (not sure of the technical term!) that the balance bar is screwed
through... and the bar itself, obviously. I drilled several holes in the bar so I can adjust it and fix it in different positions if needed.
Suction cup mirror - I hope it is OK as Mac#1 sold it to me as SVA compliant
Flexi brake hoses - I have heard of this problem before, or at least that they can't see any maker's markings. I found a thread on
here and downloaded a letter from Rally Design to the Locoster verifying that they supply Stuart Taylor with these hoses... hoping that will be
enough. I have checked on full lock and they seem to be OK
Exhaust flange - not sure how I would cover that with something that is not going to burn - any ideas?
Exhaust clamp - I have bolted in a strip of old alternator belt... hopefully it will not burn! see pic
Rescued attachment 2005-09-24 18 Locost exhaust clamp.jpg
Are your rear lights/reflectors less than 400mm from the outside edge of the wheel arch (if so it must be close)
quote:
Originally posted by omega 24 v6
Are your rear lights/reflectors less than 400mm from the outside edge of the wheel arch (if so it must be close)
Suction cup internal mirror IS NOT a fail, mine passed!!
Rich.
Brake balance bar - I have pinned it through the centres of the round things (not sure of the technical term!) that the balance bar is screwed
through... and the bar itself, obviously. I drilled several holes in the bar so I can adjust it and fix it in different positions if needed.
I'm not too sure about the integrity of the balancer bar.
By drilling where you have you have weakened the bar where it applies the load to the master cylinder push rods, several holes means you could have
weakened it a lot, (depending on where exactly the holes are).
It would have been much better to fit nuts and drill them to the bar. The holes are then at a location which will take no load during braking.
The right hand end of the bar also looks as if it could contact the pedal box under heavy braking. Will the pedal / master cylinder push rods move
full travel when bleeding the brakes?
Sorry to sound negative
Mick
[Edited on 25/9/05 by Mix]
quote:
Originally posted by Mix
Brake balance bar - I have pinned it through the centres of the round things (not sure of the technical term!) that the balance bar is screwed through... and the bar itself, obviously. I drilled several holes in the bar so I can adjust it and fix it in different positions if needed.
I'm not too sure about the integrity of the balancer bar.
By drilling where you have you have weakened the bar where it applies the load to the master cylinder push rods, several holes means you could have weakened it a lot, (depending on where exactly the holes are).
It would have been much better to fit nuts and drill them to the bar. The holes are then at a location which will take no load during braking.
The right hand end of the bar also looks as if it could contact the pedal box under heavy braking. Will the pedal / master cylinder push rods move full travel when bleeding the brakes?
Sorry to sound negative
Mick
[Edited on 25/9/05 by Mix]
quote:
Originally posted by ady8077
Hi
Car looks great
You might have to put a P clip on the battery cables, that was one of my fail points. Are you planning to cover the exhaust flange? and you may need to change the clamp you've used for the silencer
Also how have you pinned the balance bar? I was told to fit nuts either side and pin them, leaving just enough clearance for the bar to still rotate as you press the pedal
Adrian
Good luck with the test. I got two fails on the exhaust system (3 if you count 104db!). One was the springs that hold my manifold to the collectors.
They were not radiused to 2.5mm. I knew this before the test so covered them in fuel hose. I also had a sharp nut on the clamp, which I put a nut
cover over. SVA man didn't like the use of rubber on the exhaust system as it might catch fire and took both bits off. I've now wrapped my
exhaust system from the engine bay back to the silencer in exhaust wrap (which I hope will pass).
I like your alumininum shield, but if it doesn't work you could try the wrap.
Cheers Mike