Hi Guys

Over the next 10mins I will post some photos of the car as it stands now. With just a few small jobs still to do. So do us a favour and spot the sva failures that I may not have seen yet.

Thanks a lot Carl
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Nic looking car - well done

I would give a little more attention to the front suspension.

The spring adjusters, various brackets etc have radiuses whichare too small and need to be covered. Also the top ball joint adjuster lock nut.

Otherwise looks ok to me

Good luck with the test

Cheers

Mark

[Edited on 23/4/05 by mookaloid]

Yep,I agree with the earlier points made.Where you going to?Beverly.I found them very fair.I would leave the screen off.Saves taking it off there.Theymight grib the throttle cable"It may sag and lay on the manifold".I'd cover the under dash electrics with a bit of black plastic also.Out of sight out of mind....Blaay good looking build though.When you present a well turned out car looking like yours it helps.It puts them on your side.Good luck.

Yes I am going to Beverley on wednesday
Pedals are fitted with 3M grip tape and jobs still to do are

Indicators (Speed to fast)
Battery cut of switch
Nut covers and pad front supension
o rings around dials
Headlight alignment
steering lock (jublee clips on streening rack)

Carl

Has it got a reverse cos I cant see a reversing lamp ?

Look very nice, hope you pass.

Clive

Looks great,
Agree with comments about suspension wiring etc.
I would watch the radius of the suspension brackets, I failed on these but dont think it's too common.
Reverse light not required by the way.

Good luck

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Originally posted by Snuggs
Has it got a reverse cos I cant see a reversing lamp ?

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Carl,

Car looks really nice, very neat and tidy which others have told me goes along way towards passing SVA.

A couple of things I thought of (although I am certainly no expert!)

I think the exhaust looks like it points upwards, probably worth pointing it more downwards.

Is the brake bias bar locked in place?

Front suspension nut covers and padding you have already mentioned.

I love the look of the boot area with the elsticated basket, I have heard of people needing a cover in some cases, not sure what others think but you could just put a cover over the top of the boot for SVA.

Like I said the car looks excellent.

Good luck,
Rich.

i think i see the hole in the axle of the clutch pedal???

soo i think there it needs a piece of wire..

(dunno how name of the thing )

nice car anyway

TKS

There is a bracket welded to the silencer and I was told that the sound bounces off the floor and increaces the dbs is that that the case Northy as you are the sound meter man.

Carl

Hi Carl,

Car looking good.

Sound wise I doubt they'll be much in it. As the surface that they test it on is a nice hard surface the noise will bounce off the floor and head to the microphone if the outlet points down, or in your case just had straight to the microphone as the sound level meter is placed 1 meter above the ground @ 45 degrees to teh end of the exhaust.

What I will say though is that it'll make a real mess of the rear wing as it is. Mine used to be like that, and I've just had the outlet re-welded to point downwards.

Anything else you want to know?

Have you got covers for all the front suspension? I might have some bits but I don't think I'll get them to you in time now. Or rob them off Pat's car!

Your car looks rather smart to me!

How do you plan on civering the sharp edges of the spring platforms on the dampers? I've just checked my Dampers, and they have sharp edges here too, and I can think of a way to cover them up neatly and permanently.

Cheers
Andy

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SVA

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I've seen a piece of a steering rack gaiter used to cover the spring platform somewhere. It looks permanent as you need to take the damper off to fit it.

A pair of model car racing tyres is what you want!

I sent a pair to someone for his SVA test on here.

Need some Carl?

I used the steering rack gator to cover the bottom of the shock adjusters,worked a treat.
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if its any help your set up looks not too disimilar to mine and the noise issue wasnt a problem and the exhaust end is level on mine . apart from what has already been picked up the only thing i can see is your rear veiw mirror ,have you got sufficient visability in it? other than that great looking car and good luck with the sva .
scott

i was gonna mention the rear view mirror, cos i couldnt actually see it! but as its there, the fact that it will have poor visibility just means you need a near side mirror, which is present, so IMUO* it should be ok on that.

IMUO is in my uneducated opinion

Those mirrors look good on your car ;-)
How about spraying the roll hoops matt black as well?
Pat...

The car must be getting excited at the prospect of the SVA, as the bloody indicators are flashing at a rate of 150 flashes per minute. And I don't know why
(Max allowed for SVA is 130 per minute).

Carl

I will have to visit the old dears in the morning as I should have an old R/C car in the loft that I can take the tyres off as graham has suggested.

Carl

Carl,

You'll probably need higher wattage bulbs in the front motorbike indicators. I think mine came with 10W ones and I changed them to the usual 21W? ones?

Yes you are right Graham .I got some from a good supplier in Dewsbury as Halford etc didn't have any. I ended up changing the bulbs in the rear lights they were 5watt as well.

Carl

It's good to be right!
Just been talkin to Pat, he said you been at it all day

Do the car tires look ok?

Car looks good,might be worth putting spiral wrap on front brake flex.'s if they are stainless,can't quite tell on photos!
Good luck with the test!

The flexy pipes are plastic coated.

Carl

Ive just been looking at photo 11. The seat belt mounts are on the rear roll bar. How is the bar fastened to the chassis.
My father failed cos he used riv nuts in the chassis.
You can drill thro the chassis and use nut and bolts etc but you need to make provision for stopping the square section chassis tubing from crushing (at least this i sthe ruling at Gosforth).
2 other options are welding the roll bar on (but will burn the lovely paint finish) or welding fastening points direct to the chassis (take care with heights tho'. Mac#1 can supply the inserts to weld onto chassis.

Each roll bar is fixed with 8no 8.8 stainless steel dome head bolts. these go into 8 low carbon steel threaded inserts that are fully welded top and bottom to the chassis. The top weld was ground flush and the bottom weld is still visible from the underside of the car.

Thanks Carl

Car looks good m8... Only comment I have is that your brake flexi's look as if they will rub against your wing brackets on full lock. It will fail for that! Might be the phot though... J

There is a very good clip on the cooling system of the late Ford Escorts this holds the pipe clear of the uprights & wishbones
The clip also rotates as the lock is applied I will take a photo tonight

Carl

You can just see it in the last photo.

[Edited on 25/4/05 by carlgeldard]

WRT covering sharp edges, I simply wrapped the offending area with a bicycle inner tube and super glued the end down. This worked with the edges on the shock adjustment collar and the top ball joint locknut. It passed (on these) without comment.

There is no turning back now

Carl
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The brown eye (at the entrance to the chocolate wiz way) is twitching now isn't it Carl?

Good luck, you'll be fine. Report back asap, by text if you want.

good luck!!

a bit late now, the only thing I could add to previous comments is the top of the areo screen radias. I had to put trim on mine.

(don't think they'll notice it though)

mark