hey guys this is my first post on this site, so hello to you all! im currently building a (GBSC or Robin hood) Zero. which has the generald brand spankers 2.0 zetec, jenvey throttle bodies, Innovate LC1 wideband lambda and Emerald ECU. Im aiming to have the build finished by march and ready for its IVA test.
Whilst going over bits of the car i really am not happy with the GBSC Pedal box. which is essentially 3 rubbishly welded up pedalts fitted with rubber bushes with a bolt going through them all, the pedals feel really sloppy and just makes the build really amateur looking.
Ive been reserching fitting a universal floor mounted pedal box and i just wanted to show what i was thinking of doing to Comply with the IVA test before going and spending around £300! i think ive thought of most things and i should be able to comply but im sure some one will be able to point something out that ive missed! heres my plan!

the pedal will be this:
http://www.compbrake.co.uk/index.php?searchStr=0405&_a=viewCat&Submit=Go

however im not going to use the individual resovoirs due to float level switches required for IVA. so i have found this tandem reservoir which will supply two master cylinders and has a level switch built in, it also has the test button and digrams printed on which are needed for IVA

http://www.cbsonline.co.uk/2-chamber-fluid-reservoir-flres2-127-p.asp

this reservoir will attach to the cylinders with the following hose (which is certificated for IVA)

http://www.cbsonline.co.uk/brake-fluid-filler-hose-bfhose-3649-p.asp

the only other issue (i think) is the bias bar which accoring to the IVA manual must be lockwired. which can be easily done. failing that Car builders solutions also do a bias bar locking kit failing that again i can weld and replace the bias bar for the grand sum of £20 after the IVA test.

does this sound like a viable approch to fitting this kind of pedal box?

rally design do float switches to fit individual reservoirs..

good price too..

http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/index.php?cPath=562_1357&osCsid=antoubehr2piuncjjug2jgsa74

I bought the same pedal box for my haynes roadster but for a cable clutch, had to do a bit of cutting and shutting to get it to fit.
I'm using the master cylinders supplied but im fitting float sensors to comply with IVA, the sensors can be purchased from CBS. I'm not quite sure about the balance bar situation, ideally it needs to be left unlocked so it can be fine tuned on the brake test at IVA then locked. I've heard of some IVA test centres allowing this to be done with lock nuts and other who want it welded.

Cheers Dan

When you go for the IVA test they will test the brake balance at various different pedal pressures, something that isn't possible to test for at an MOT station, so basically you will have to go in with it set to your best guess.

If the balance bar needs to be adjusted they will probably let you do it there. The problem then comes with the locking. You don't have to weld balance bars any more but you do have to have it positively locked, nylocs won';t do. Really it needs to be drilled and pinned, but you are unlikely to be allowed to drill on the VOSA premises.

Probably the easiest and cheapest way to pass the IVA is to assume you will fail on the first try (most people do anyway), adjust the balance if necessary during that first test, then get it locked off before the retest.

[Edited on 21/12/10 by interestedparty]

Firstly, I am stunned by the timescale of your plan! You don't actually say when you started building? - Are you serious about finishing by march?

I have just IVA'd mine - its taken 2 years - and I probably have more spare time than most guys I know!

I used a pedal box from OBP (optimum balance products) who is a trader member of the forum. I used twin tanks and the level switches from rally design (see gavin's link) you need to watch the insulation on the wires as mine started to split through being knocked around whilst I was building - I cured it by a blob of clear silicone where the wires emerge from the unit.

You don't need a 'press to test light' if you use the same bulb as the handbrake.

Photo coming up showing how I mounted and wired the m/cyl/resrs... Also note the label rivetted to the pedal box access hatch IVA - requirment if you have a bias bar.


Description

Now the Bias bar: - It needs to be fixed in position - many more knowledgeable guys on here have said that to weld such a key part of your braking system is madness - it can weaken the structure of the metal. They brought in welding at the changeover from SVA to IVA. in April '09. It speaks volumes that in May '09 they updated the manual and REMOVED the requirement to weld!

Get some lockwire and a drill ready for the test day - David, the inspector who did my test told me that the bias bar setting is not as critical as most people think - he said as long as you have chosen your master cylinder sizes correctly - as long as it is in the middle it should be ok. I set mine centrally and it didn't need any adjustment.

Unfortunately, mine failed its IVA on several minior points, so it didn't really matter that I managed to snap my drill bits off in the process of drilling the holes - its a pig to get to!


Finally, on behalf of all the good guys - and gals! on here, a very warm welcome to the best kit car forum on the planet!

[Edited on 21/12/10 by stevegough]

i was going to have the braking system of the car set up at a local garage....however CBS also do a bias bar locking kit. to be honest im sure the car wont pass first time anyway! i have seen thse additional float sensors...how do they fit into the resovoirs and does any one have a wiring diagram? finally would i need stickers on each reservoir with a brake symbol and type of fluid to be useD?

(i will have been building 2 years in march by the way!)


[Edited on 21/12/10 by mcramsay]

quote:

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Originally posted by mcramsay
i was going to have the braking system of the car set up at a local garage....however CBS also do a bias bar locking kit. to be honest im sure the car wont pass first time anyway! i have seen thse additional float sensors...how do they fit into the resovoirs and does any one have a wiring diagram? finally would i need stickers on each reservoir with a brake symbol and type of fluid to be useD?

(i will have been building 2 years in march by the way!)


[Edited on 21/12/10 by mcramsay]

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cheers for that, looks like i will go ahead with that setup then, its a bit cheaper than the other way i had planned! finally before i order what sizes of master cylinder do you think i should go for as i believe i can chose between 0.625 0.7 0.75 cylinders

0.625 and 0.7 are the sizes I have used - the larger is for the rear.

Also you might like to see this recent thread:- http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/29/viewthread.php?tid=147153

Good luck.

quote:

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Originally posted by stevegough

Get some lockwire and a drill ready for the test day - David, the inspector who did my test told me that the bias bar setting is not as critical as most people think - he said as long as you have chosen your master cylinder sizes correctly - as long as it is in the middle it should be ok. I set mine centrally and it didn't need any adjustment.

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Chadderton, Manchester. I think it seems to depend on the individual tester?