Does anybody know if theres a minimum gap needed between the loom, fuel lines and brake lines down the tunnel. I understand that the electrics need to be on the opposite side to brakes and fuel, but i cant find this written down anywhere either in the old sva mannual or the v3 iva mannual. Id like mine to all be routed along the top of the tunnel, obviously with the biggest gap i can, would this be ok? Thanks.
AFAIR it's not specifically written in the SVA manual but there is flexibility for judging things "suitable for use" e.g. making a
chassis out of loo rolls isn't specifically prohibited but I doubt it would pass 
Most testers like to see a fair bit of space between the
electrics and fuel but it's not specified. Never did understand it anyway. To rupture a fuel line is unfortunate, for this to happen as the loom
busts open throwing sparks all over the place is extremely unlikely.
something like this
Rescued attachment tunnel.jpg
The main concern is that a wiring short will cause local sparking/heating which will burn the fuel or hydraulic pipes thus setting the fuel or hyd
fluid alight.
Had exactly this on a racing powerboat when the short burnt through the capillary pipe of the water temp gauge and set light to the alcohol in it. Not
funny when your are in a boat with 50 gallons of fuel on board.
quote:
Originally posted by BenB
AFAIR it's not specifically written in the SVA manual but there is flexibility for judging things "suitable for use" e.g. making a chassis out of loo rolls isn't specifically prohibited but I doubt it would pass
That was quick, thanks for the advice, i could only possibly get them about 40mm further apart, mounting them off the side panels, but i dont really like that as its getting closer to the prop. Just remembered though theres a fuel return line to cram in there too. With regard to the fire risk, i was planning to make the tunnel lid out of wood so it could be shaped and smoothed easily round the gear lever and handbrake. Would that be ok? ps i think ill use solid fuel lines and convoluted tubing like you suggest.
i have mine routed the same as in your diagram accept my fuel line in on the lower edge and i even told the insector that and he said they would be fine as long as they are securely fitted
Great, i can get back out into the garage then and carry on now. Thanks
quote:
Originally posted by andrew-theasby
That was quick, thanks for the advice, i could only possibly get them about 40mm further apart, mounting them off the side panels, but i dont really like that as its getting closer to the prop. Just remembered though theres a fuel return line to cram in there too. With regard to the fire risk, i was planning to make the tunnel lid out of wood so it could be shaped and smoothed easily round the gear lever and handbrake. Would that be ok? ps i think ill use solid fuel lines and convoluted tubing like you suggest.
Could you not run the loom across the top of the tunnel and the fuel and brake pipes along the bottom? If the loom were to get hot, heat rises and so wouldnt affect the pipes.
quote:
Originally posted by craig1410
Wood should be fine as long as you seal it with varnish or paint to prevent any vapours becoming trapped or oil soaking in. The type of fire to be afraid of is when your propshaft fails and rips open the hydraulic lines, fuel lines and opens up the electrics. You then have limited or no brakes and you have afterburners coming out the back of your tunnel caused by forced airflow through the nosecone mixing with the brake fluid and fuel in the tunnel. If you are lucky the propshaft will have knocked out the feed to the fuel pump...
Doctor Pepper, what's the worst that can happen...
Oh, and then the propshaft digs into the ground and pole-vaults the car upside down...
You'll be fine! (You didn't make your own propshaft did you?)
Cheers,
Craig.
[Edited on 13/4/2009 by craig1410]
Ive been thinking that all morning 