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SVA position on old style exhaust clamps
mad-butcher - 21/11/08 at 10:09 AM

Failing welding the silencer to the front pipes the circular type clamp won't tighten up enough to stop silencer rotating, so I've got to use one of the old style exhaust clamps, to try and cut down the sharp edge I'm in the process of welding a plate on as photo (sorry about the quality) if I then radius the edges will he accept this. opinions please Rescued attachment exhaust clamp.JPG
Rescued attachment exhaust clamp.JPG


pewe - 21/11/08 at 10:15 AM

Looks OK to me.
I used exhaust paste to round off any sharp edges and that passed without comment.
Presumably the nuts are in-board of the pipe?
Cheers, Pewe


dinosaurjuice - 21/11/08 at 10:16 AM

as long as the radius' are more than required (3mm??) then youll be fine. not sure about the nuts and thread poking out... is it possible to point this at the ground?

I used those type clamps on the exhaust of a trike i built, stopped all exhaust leaks and took a lot of flex out the system. shame there isnt a better looking alternative though...


ReMan - 21/11/08 at 10:39 AM

If the nice clamp you have won't tighten it enough I woukl try either slotting further or wrapping some really thin sheet round the pipe. use an old tin can cut up or someting like.
If you have to use that horis clamp, wrap it in heatreplecting cloth for SVA


robinj66 - 21/11/08 at 11:28 AM

Once upon a time I would have said that common sense would prevail and the SVA man would let that go. however , on recent experience I would suggest you use exhaust heatwrap to cover those nasty sharp edges

My clamps were a fail
[img][/img]

and had to be bandaged (presumably so that if i did cut any passer-by I would be able to administer first aid )

[img][/img]


BenB - 21/11/08 at 11:54 AM

I used a jubilee clip (a bit poxy but it works) and just put the screw bit of it on in the "inside" aspect of the silencer so he couldn't get his ball type thing in contact with it. Passed without comment (even at the first super strict SVA where they failed me on everything they didn't bat an eyelid)....


David Jenkins - 21/11/08 at 12:15 PM

I used a clamp similar to this:

Link to M&P

Mine was made by Mikalor, or a similar name - bit larger than the ones shown in the piccy.

It clamps well, and the knobbly bits can be tucked out of the way of the tester's sphere.


JeffHs - 21/11/08 at 04:10 PM

Do you need to clamp it at all? I'm using a Robin Hood exhaust and silencer. I stuck the 2 together using exhaust silicone. The silencer is fixed with a 3 bolt flange so it can't rotate and the joint gives no problems at all. It comes to bits easily too if you should need to