Carbon fibre2?
I am probably trying to drag up information from possibly 8 years ago. I bought my Viento as a part built car and I have been building it for 5 years
so I have no idea how old it is.
Tried to fit the clutch pedal to my clutch master cylinder. Both pedal box and clutch master cylinder I think were purchased from Luego. Having
connected it using a Clevis from CBS I have found my pedal has no travel. It just presses into the bulkhead. I have searched through some old posts
and found a couple of references to cutting the threaded bar that comes out of MC. My previous owner could have trimmed it to much and left it short.
The car came with the MC fitted but not connected so it might be the case.
Did anyone trim the bar on their Viento/Velocity clutch MC?
Might be a daft question but have you got fluid in the systems? All bled up properly!
No I haven't. I wanted to connect the pedal first. You think the rod might be stuck inside the cylinder and theres more travel than I think? Could be.
That would be why the pedal hits the bulkhead then. There's no resistance from the brake fluid.
Fill with fluid first however I found that I had to reduce the length of the rod otherwise the mc would not return far enough to uncover the hole that
allows the fluid to return back into the reservoir. I also had to fettle the clevis to prevent it binding on the pedal.
Kenton
Filled it with Fluid last night and bled the system. Still not enough travel. To be honest I am struggling to wrap physics of the levers and push rods. Not sure how cutting some off the bar will help me but it's not as if I have any other choice. I can't add a bit to the bar and I don't want drill another hole in the pedal etc. Just wish I'd sorted this before the Scuttle went on. Its makes it very awkward to get into the footwell. I am going to have to get the angry grinder into the foot well!
I made the tops of the footwells removable. Glad I did, it would have been a pain otherwise.
Carbon fibre2?
Sorry but I've read through the thread and cant work out what problem your having, How did you bleed the system? When you say you don't have enough travel does the pedal move from fully up (nearest to you ) down to the bulkhead (or to an adjustable stop) this should be about 3 inches of movement. Your always welcome to come over and check mine for measurements
I think a few photos might give us a better idea of your problem . Shortening the push rod would make the problem worse if your pedal box is the same as my Luego supplied box
Better than photos! A Video.
I filled the system up with fluid. Removed the pedal and loosened the bleed nipple on the Slave Cylinder. I filled the clutch fluid reservoir with
fluid and then pumped the shaft by hand rather than the pedal. Fluid dribbled out of the bleed nipple and I tightened in up quick. On reconnecting
the pedal and screwing the clevis onto the shaft I am left with little travel. Screwing the clevis further onto the shaft seems to make the problem
worse and undoing the clevis leaves a worrying lack of thread to attach the clevis to the shaft.
[youtube]http://youtu.be/-xwuBNrck8U[/youtube]
looks to me that the back edge of the pedal is binding on the pushrod
clutch very little travel
agreed. Check it out, may need to take some material off the pedal, or redrill the hole. Or a different pushrod.....
Have you checked to see if the pedal movement that you have disengages the clutch. It will probably need someone to sit in the car and press the clutch with it in gear whilst you see if you can push the car. If if the suggestions above don't work it may be that the ratio of the master cylinder to the slave cylinder is not right.
The clevis is fouling on the pedal, top and bottom. Re drill the pivot hole close to the edge of the pedal.
I shall have to get my head right into the footwell! Would be reasonably easy to get into there and grind a bit off the rear of the pedal.
As already suggested the hole needs to be re drilled nearer the front edge of the pedal. No point in grinding the rear edge of the pedal , metal need
to come off the front . I suspect it would be a lot easier to re Drill?
[Edited on 6/3/15 by rusty nuts]
I think you can get longer reach clevis 'ssss
Exactly the issue I had. As I mentioned earlier I ground out a 45' angle on the clevis to prevent binding. I didnt want to drill another hole in
the pedal.
Kenton
Extended clevis would work LINK
quote:
Originally posted by 40inches
Extended clevis would work LINK
quote:
Originally posted by rusty nuts
quote:
Originally posted by 40inches
Extended clevis would work LINK
That would do the job if the pushrods has an 8mm thread, IIRC the pushrod on my master cylinders are 5/16" UNF ?
Got the grinder out and a bright halogen lamp and inserted myself in the footwell. Donned eye protection and started grinding. Got hot down there
quick. After taking 5mm off the back of the pedal and then rounding off the inside of the clevis the clutch pedal works really. Thanks for the above
suggestions.
Only problem now is the clutch pedal seems very light. I do have cars with quite heavy clutches so itmight be me. My daily driver is a old seat
ibiza with a cable pull clutch that is very heavy. I was kinda expecting a clunky old rover v8 clutch to be heavy, but it's at least as light as
my golf gti. I hope I haven't muffed up installing it as it means taking the engine out!
Clutch is not disengaging. Output shaft on gearbox is locked solid with the pedal pressed or not. I can hear a squidgy, bubblely sort of noise when pushing the pedal is if there is air in the system. I bled the system though and fluid came from the nipple. Is there some bleeding proceedure I do not know about?
When bleeding it's not just a case of fluid coming out of the bleed nipple, it's more a case of no air coming out , try bleeding again ,a pressure bleeder of some sort often helps . Another way of bleeding troublesome clutches is to connect a brake calliper bleed valve to the clutch slave cylinder bleed nipple using a suitable pipe and pumping the brake pedal thereby back bleeding the clutch (make sure you take off the clutch reservoir cap and prepare for spillage. Possibly extending the pedal movement may help as well
Sorted all this out now. Here's how.
1. Sorted the pedal issue by grinding 5mm off the back of the pedal in a slight arc. Prevents it fouling the clevis.
2. Bleeding the clutch was achieved by taking the slave cylinder off and holding it upright with the bleed nipple point upwards, then bleeding as
normal. Tried eeverything else to bleed it. Even back filling with a ezzibleed.
3. Getting the clevis pin on the pedal. Tried every way to do this, there is way to much force needed to do it easily. Eventually had to take the
master cylinder off, connect the pedal and rebolt to the bulkhead.
And to anyone doing this is the future, do it before you put the scuttle on. Guess how I know.
quote:
Originally posted by Irony
Sorted all this out now. Here's how.
3. Getting the clevis pin on the pedal. Tried every way to do this, there is way to much force needed to do it easily. Eventually had to take the master cylinder off, connect the pedal and rebolt to the bulkhead.