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Author: Subject: Rv8 mounted to Audi transaxle
mark chandler

posted on 25/7/07 at 12:42 PM Reply With Quote
Rv8 mounted to Audi transaxle

Hi all,

Finaly done it, cut the front off a Rv8 manual housing, welded it to the front of an Audi transaxle and modified the Audi flywheel to mate to an Rv8 auto ring gear and matching adaptors... phew.

I can now start to plan my bodywork, something like the brabham bt-30 is looking favorite.

I,ll post some pics of the bits and bobs later on in my achive when I have measured and photo'ed.

All nice and locost so far, just the gearbox @ £85 from the breakers.

Regards Mark Rescued attachment mated_RH_Rear_small.JPG
Rescued attachment mated_RH_Rear_small.JPG

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Agriv8

posted on 25/7/07 at 01:07 PM Reply With Quote
OOOooooo Twin plenumn, that looks very neat

Regards


Agriv8





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mark chandler

posted on 25/7/07 at 01:46 PM Reply With Quote
Its not the real deal, got two 3.5 tops and blended them together.

To be replaced with two lots of 954 blade throttle bodies in the fullness of time.

Does work well but you need MAP driven ECU (I used megasquirt) to get full advantage.

Regards Mark

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Agriv8

posted on 25/7/07 at 02:32 PM Reply With Quote
running MAp on my V8 on Vems ECU works ok

but the next step is somthing the call Alpha blending ( dont usderstand this yet but looks to work well with single plenum and erm LuMpy CaMMS )

Regards

Agriv8





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Management is like a tree of monkeys. - Those at the top look down and see a tree full of smiling faces. BUT Those at the bottom look up and see a tree full of a*seholes .............


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RazMan

posted on 25/7/07 at 04:11 PM Reply With Quote
That looks really good Mark

As a matter of interest, how long is the front of engine to driveshaft measurement? You've got me thinking





Cheers,
Raz

When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box

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DIY Si

posted on 25/7/07 at 04:34 PM Reply With Quote
I think you'll find the answer is no Raz! You've only juts gotten this one working!





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mark chandler

posted on 25/7/07 at 04:43 PM Reply With Quote
From the centre of the drive shaft to the front of the Rv8 A/C pulley is 37"

But this is a large pulley setup for three belts. You can lose 1" with ease, 2" by replacing the water pump with an Electric one, best endeavours without trying that hard will be 35".

A P6 front end is I believe shorter but I suspect the oil pump housings will all be knackered by now so a range rover front end is the best way to go.

Regard Mark


Here's my doodling for now.

[Edited on 25/7/07 by mark chandler] Rescued attachment bec_single.jpg
Rescued attachment bec_single.jpg

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mark chandler

posted on 25/7/07 at 04:52 PM Reply With Quote
The cam I am running in the block is a 228, got a lovely idle with megasquirt but very easy to stall. Turning on the eletric fans slowed it down and full lock on the power steering stopped it altogether....



Regards Mark

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DIY Si

posted on 25/7/07 at 04:53 PM Reply With Quote
What's the elliptical thing in the middle? Or is it just the yet to be decided middle bit?





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mark chandler

posted on 25/7/07 at 05:43 PM Reply With Quote
Hi Raz,

A couple more measurements for you:

Rear of G/box to Centre CV joint allow 20"
Centre CV to front of Audi Bell housing 9"
1" adaptor to Rv8
Front of Rv8 adaptor to block front 20"
Block front to end of water pump 8"

Si,

The elliptical thing is a 5 second head, body and fat legs !

The seating area is the same as one side of a locost, front bulkhead is in line with centre line of front axles

Total overall dimensions will be very close to my locost, although I will have more overhang on the front with crushable metalwork just in case ......

Regards Mark

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DIY Si

posted on 25/7/07 at 05:45 PM Reply With Quote
Ah, I see now! That should be a bit mental then!





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mark chandler

posted on 25/7/07 at 05:57 PM Reply With Quote
Personally I do not think it will out accelerate my BEC, 130 bhp for 400kg, new buggy 300 bhp 800kg.

Its the challenge of making something, the BEC will have to be sold next year to finance the wheels/tyres brakes etc, ie all the stuff to make it nice, I do like a good finish if possible.

This is the end goal though:



Regards Mark Rescued attachment end_goal_BT30.JPG
Rescued attachment end_goal_BT30.JPG

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DIY Si

posted on 25/7/07 at 06:03 PM Reply With Quote
Very nice. Looking to make it road legal or track only?





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RazMan

posted on 25/7/07 at 06:08 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by DIY Si
I think you'll find the answer is no Raz! You've only juts gotten this one working!


Very true Si, but I'm just thinking ahead - somewhere I can't afford to go just yet. I'm putting a couple of rolling chassis together at the moment (for someone else) and I'm looking at some options. Unfortunately the RV8 is about 150mm too long for me

Thanks for the info Mark





Cheers,
Raz

When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box

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DIY Si

posted on 25/7/07 at 06:09 PM Reply With Quote
You've chopped and changed the shell on yours, so why not the chassis as well next time?!





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iank

posted on 25/7/07 at 06:10 PM Reply With Quote
Looks very interesting, nice work getting the transaxle and engine mated up.

To be honest I'd be amazed if it weighs over 600kg when finished, probably closer to 500kg if you're careful. Rover V8 weighs very roughly the same as a pinto IIRC and most pinto 7's seem to come in at 650 ish. You should be able to lose 50-100kg easily over a road car taking everything into account.





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mark chandler

posted on 25/7/07 at 06:12 PM Reply With Quote
I,ll be after SVA and road legal, I have lots of fun in my BEC so will want to repeat this.

Infact since buiding my locost I have only ridden my bike once, these things are such good fun.

Regards Mark

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iank

posted on 25/7/07 at 06:22 PM Reply With Quote
Now that will be interesting coming up in the mirrors

Still should be much less than 800kg IMO





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mark chandler

posted on 25/7/07 at 08:21 PM Reply With Quote
The frame will be a bit heavier than my locost, 1 1/2" tube for main rails to start with, all tubes 16swg, although I could easily make using 1" tube I want more strength.

Body panels to be ali, starting to collect bits to make an english wheel, I have always fancied rolling a bit of ali.

Raz man, have a look at a V6 manual audi, nice stuby engine and no mating complications, infact the V8 may also be very short.

Regards Mark

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RazMan

posted on 25/7/07 at 09:53 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by mark chandler
Raz man, have a look at a V6 manual audi, nice stuby engine and no mating complications, infact the V8 may also be very short.



Yep, I've measured up a V6 and it will just squeeze in there. Not sure about the V8 but I'd like to have a try





Cheers,
Raz

When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box

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iank

posted on 25/7/07 at 10:28 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by mark chandler
The frame will be a bit heavier than my locost, 1 1/2" tube for main rails to start with, all tubes 16swg, although I could easily make using 1" tube I want more strength.

Body panels to be ali, starting to collect bits to make an english wheel, I have always fancied rolling a bit of ali.




Good choice, going to be very stiff, and maybe not as over engineered as it sounds, especially as it's narrower.

per meter
1.5inch 1.6mm tube = 1.4387kg
1.0inch 1.6mm tube = 0.9381kg
1.0inch 1.6mm rhs = 1.196kg

Ally panels sound a challenge, English wheels have the look of something that is made to look easier than it really is by guys with years of practice.





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mark chandler

posted on 26/7/07 at 08:04 AM Reply With Quote
English wheels do indeed have that I'm really basic so must be easy look to them but will end up being incrediably hard to use.

I,m hoping that most of my panels will be single plane curves so will make some MDF formers to slot around the chassis and just roll the sheet around these.

Next on my list is some cam tensioner pulleys so I can construct a small vice mounted english wheel and have a gentle roll and see how it goes on producing 1/10th panels. I just do not like fibreglass, gets in my hair, sticks to my fingers and smells bad !

Regards Mark

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NS Dev

posted on 5/8/07 at 09:35 PM Reply With Quote
chap in our autograss club had a rather tired looking but extremely effective and great fun car that was made to look vaguely brabham-esque if you squinted at it right!!

It used a VW transporter box with a 4.2 rover lump and one of those noisy things that eaton sell stuck on top

awesome car, biggest problem was the plugs breaking down under boost as I remember, well that and the holley 750 carb turning into a solid block of ice on damp race days at full throttle!!





Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion retro car restoration and tuning

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thomas4age

posted on 7/8/07 at 04:24 PM Reply With Quote
well that should be suck through then which is strange because most use that holley on blowthrough, which has 2 big advantages
1 no freezing of the venturi
2 a little chargecooling effect of the fuel vaporising under hot intake temp

more importand, how much torque did it make?
and what was done to the gearbox to keep up with that torque?

Grtz Thomas





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v8kid

posted on 9/8/07 at 08:13 PM Reply With Quote
Mark, you should be under 500kg my 2 seater road legal Riot with Rover lump and renault box weighs in at 509kg. If you want to shorten the front end of the rover block the old P6 pulley arrangement is a straight fit on to the RR front cover and saves a few inches. Also the water pump can be milled off and a stub pipe fitted with a remote electric water pump. My setup doing this is only 7" longer than a ford transverse setup.
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