lsdweb
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| posted on 14/11/05 at 09:20 PM |
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Thanks Welderman and David - great advice and photos (and avatar!)! I have to stop the wife seeing my viewing this topic as she'll think
I'm looking at porn! Little does she know I'm plotting more time in the garage!!
Regards
Wyn
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Dreckly
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| posted on 14/11/05 at 11:30 PM |
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Hi Welderman,
I can help with arches suitable to hide up to 13"x13" rear rims on a Mini. They should be more than wide enough for your application and
two styles to choose from.
Hi lsdweb,
I might also be able to help with your chassis problems, I manufacture the UltiMini.
If you want more info then please e-mail me at: info@ultimini.co.uk
Best regards,
Ken
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Triton
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| posted on 15/11/05 at 12:54 AM |
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Still think the engine would be better off in the front...it's a Mini after all.
My Daughter has taken over production of the damn fine Triton race seats and her contact email is emmatrs@live.co.uk.
www.tritonraceseats.com
www.hairyhedgehog.com
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kb58
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| posted on 15/11/05 at 04:48 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by lsdweb
I have to stop the wife seeing my viewing this topic as she'll think I'm looking at porn! Little does she know I'm plotting more
time in the garage!!
Wyn
Given that, she'd probably prefer the porn...
Mid-engine Locost - http://www.midlana.com
And the book - http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/midlana/paperback/product-21330662.html
Kimini - a tube-frame, carbon shell, Honda Prelude VTEC mid-engine Mini: http://www.kimini.com
And its book -
http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/kimini-how-to-design-and-build-a-mid-engine-sports-car-from-scratch/paperback/product-4858803.html
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lsdweb
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| posted on 15/11/05 at 12:41 PM |
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Thanks for the response. I was hoping to convert an existing car to avoid SVA, as I've been through this once and would wish to avoid it if at
all possible!
'All' I would be doing would be replacing the engine, gearbox and diff and changing some body panels - there are probably millions of
Minis that have had that done to them and retained their original identity!!
I guess your Ultimini would be considered as a new / kit build and would need to go through SVA?
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Dreckly
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| posted on 15/11/05 at 01:10 PM |
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quote:
I guess your Ultimini would be considered as a new / kit build and would need to go through SVA?
Yes Wyn, you are quite correct about the UltiMini.
Regards,
Ken.
"UltiMini" is the ultimate space framed Mini.
www.ultimini.co.uk
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Minicooper
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| posted on 15/11/05 at 01:16 PM |
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All our heavily modified mid engined mini should be SVA tested and be Q registered according to the DVLA website, if you take a look at the link below
in the Radically Altered Vehicle section, you will see the car would fail on the first and most important criteria
http://www.dvla.gov.uk/vehicles/regrebil.htm
You could legally have a FWD bike engined mini especially if the subframe was kept
Although I have a mate who has his ZCars R1 mini on the road with a MOT and the original registration, so it can be done
Cheers
David
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lsdweb
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| posted on 15/11/05 at 09:16 PM |
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I've now taken a look at my new engine and powerflex diff unit. A rough measurement shows that overall length from the centre of the diff output
to the front of the engine gives 28".
This is with the diff unit horizontal - this distance can be shortened by rotating the position of the diff unit in relation to the gearbox, which
would mean sitting the engine really low (that's got to be good) with the diff unit almost on top of the gearbox. There would be nothing to stop
me siting the diff outputs behind the centre line of the rear wheels and angling the shafts. This would make this a 'doable' option in a
Mini going by Minicooper (David's) comments.
I've attached a photo of the engine etc in the Darrian in which it currently lives.
 
Rescued attachment P1010009.JPG
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Minicooper
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| posted on 15/11/05 at 09:37 PM |
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Wyn,
Looks as though it should fit fine, you can angle the shafts back quite a bit, at the very least 2 inches if not more. Especially if you keep the
engine box central with relation to keeping the driveshafts equal.
Does the engine have a dry sump as well? There is a lot of expensive parts in that engine bay, the powertec box alone would have been the best part of
three grand
You will be the first with a proper reverse in a bike engine mini!!!!
Cheers
David
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lsdweb
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| posted on 15/11/05 at 09:43 PM |
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Thanks David
The engine and box are secondhand although the diff unit has only done 6 hours! It'll be one of the few Minis with 6 reverse gears! My
mate's just bought a Radical SR3 so is selling his Darrian rally car and, with all the problems surrounding rally specials, he has decided to
sell the bike engine stuff separately.
All I've got to do now is work out what car to put it in!!
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andygtt
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| posted on 15/11/05 at 10:05 PM |
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my mate is building a midi mini.... I think he calls himself F1mini..... he's doing a full tubular chassis with a turbocharged Bussa in the
back.
He choped the roof and made a carbon one and also chopped the floor.
It's gona be a mental peice of kit, I can't wait to race him again.
Andy
please redefine your limits.
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welderman
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| posted on 15/11/05 at 10:53 PM |
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Looks like the fun is starting sooner that you think Wyn
Thank's, Joe 
I don't stalk people
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/23/viewthread.php?tid=172301
Back on with the Fisher Fury R1
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Triton
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| posted on 16/11/05 at 12:12 AM |
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So what are all you lot doing about that heavy old subframe up front then?
My Daughter has taken over production of the damn fine Triton race seats and her contact email is emmatrs@live.co.uk.
www.tritonraceseats.com
www.hairyhedgehog.com
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welderman
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| posted on 16/11/05 at 08:07 AM |
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Still got the subframe in, a radiator, fuel tank, and thats it. Fiberglass two piece front end on order.
 
Rescued attachment !CID__wDOXMwSuFQ_.jpg
Thank's, Joe
I don't stalk people
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/23/viewthread.php?tid=172301
Back on with the Fisher Fury R1
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lsdweb
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| posted on 16/11/05 at 08:22 AM |
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I guess there are loads of ways of trimming off even more weight - losing the front subframe would be one - I believe Z cars have just produced a
tubular one, which, obviously, doesn't need to carry the weight of the engine. Then there's carbon fibre front, roof, doors, followed by
bankruptcy!
I guess if I go the Mini route I’ll stick with the basics for a starting point but, maybe, improve it over time. I’ve spent enough on the engine and
diff!
Regards
Wyn
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Fred W B
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| posted on 16/11/05 at 08:39 AM |
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Welderman - Is there a hole in the fuel tank for the air to get out of the rad?
Cheers
Fred WB
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Dreckly
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| posted on 16/11/05 at 10:34 AM |
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Valid point Fred
"UltiMini" is the ultimate space framed Mini.
www.ultimini.co.uk
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Dreckly
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| posted on 16/11/05 at 10:58 AM |
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Wyn,
There are two schools of thought on the matter of weight from the front subframe.
One is get rid and replace with a fully space-framed front end, which in T45 will be light & strong, fabricate new wishbones etc.
The other is to modify the subframe and integrate it with a semi space-framed front, so retaining the original style of suspension geometry. The
beauty of this approach is that the negative camber bottom arms & adjustable tie rods etc. are available from any good Mini accessory outlet and
you're not re-inventing the wheel. The other advantage of the 2nd route is that you do maintain weight at the front end to help compensate for
the manic understeer that can be generated by rear engined RWD installations. Please remember that weight transfer is a necessity for both cornering
and braking. Too light on the front and neither will happen effectively.
Here endeth the sermon. JM2PW
regards,
Ken.
"UltiMini" is the ultimate space framed Mini.
www.ultimini.co.uk
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lsdweb
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| posted on 16/11/05 at 01:01 PM |
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The words 'hole' and 'fuel tank' in the same sentence frighten me - Ken (Dreckly) will understand!
Ken - 'sermon' much appreciated - I like the simplicity of maintaining the existing geometry and the availability of parts.
Regards
Wyn
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welderman
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| posted on 16/11/05 at 05:01 PM |
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No there is no hole in the tank for the air to get out, but the rad is a heavy duty 4 core one so im hoping this will disperse (get rid of) the heat
quickly enough.
As wyn says this is just a learning curve, so the next one hopfullly will be better. 
Thank's, Joe
I don't stalk people
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/23/viewthread.php?tid=172301
Back on with the Fisher Fury R1
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Rorty
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| posted on 17/11/05 at 04:55 AM |
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There won't be a next one (at least with that engine) if you don't duct the heat away from that radiator.
Put a hair dryer on full blast and hold the nozzle against your arm. It will be a race to see which gives up first, the hair dryer, your jacket, or
your flesh.
You've got to get that heat away - and properly.
Cheers, Rorty.
"Faster than a speeding Pullet".
PLEASE DON'T U2U ME IF YOU WANT A QUICK RESPONSE. TRY EMAILING ME INSTEAD!
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welderman
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| posted on 17/11/05 at 12:49 PM |
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Hi there Rorty, the front set up is similar to the Zcars Mini. I have based my build around this, there are no ducts to let the hot air escape. But i
don't have any inner wings as on there cars so i HOPE this will work.
Thanks for your interest, the more comments that are posted helps not just me but all builders going down this route.
Joe
Thank's, Joe
I don't stalk people
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/23/viewthread.php?tid=172301
Back on with the Fisher Fury R1
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Fred W B
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| posted on 17/11/05 at 01:24 PM |
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I would strongly suggest that you try to get at least some sort of gap between the tank and the rad. It's the air going through the rad that
does the cooling, and I dont see that air will flow into the high pressure area that is going to form against the slab tank front once the car is
moving.
I realize that fan will move air through the rad somehow, but you don't want to run it all the time - it takes power, that comes from the
alternator, that is powered by the engine, so slowing you down
Cheers
Fred WB
[Edited on 17/11/05 by Fred W B]
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welderman
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| posted on 17/11/05 at 02:25 PM |
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Any suggestions apart from this.
 
Rescued attachment subarubonnet.jpg
Thank's, Joe
I don't stalk people
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/23/viewthread.php?tid=172301
Back on with the Fisher Fury R1
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welderman
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| posted on 17/11/05 at 07:14 PM |
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Thers is also a 50mm gap between rad and tank. Looking at my picture it looks as if it is touching.
Thank's, Joe
I don't stalk people
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/23/viewthread.php?tid=172301
Back on with the Fisher Fury R1
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