Gakes
|
posted on 20/1/09 at 06:19 AM |
|
|
Makes sense. The only problems I had with the booster was its shear size and connecting it to the intake bcoz now I'm running a dowdraught.
Description
|
|
|
cheapracer
|
posted on 21/1/09 at 05:44 AM |
|
|
No problem, look around in wreckers for isolated brake boosters or speak to your local brake parts shop, they aren't always located just in
front of the mastercylinder.
You really need to top your water at the highest point and have bleeds anywhere that large amounts of air can get trapped and I see you have this
problem.
[Edited on 21/1/09 by cheapracer]
It's coming....
|
|
Gakes
|
posted on 21/1/09 at 12:56 PM |
|
|
I've never seen any of those before,thanx for the advice. I've found a better place to mount the bottle. seems like it will work out.
Description
|
|
Gakes
|
posted on 9/2/09 at 03:39 PM |
|
|
xO's first drive
Had my first test drive in the xO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Went ok, still a couple of snaggs.
http://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=62435622560&oid=14494654031
Does anyone know why my car's not getting enough grip on the front wheels when i turn??
Description
|
|
cloudy
|
posted on 9/2/09 at 05:47 PM |
|
|
Toe in/ Ackerman change problems at a first guess...
James
www.warnercars.com
|
|
Gakes
|
posted on 9/2/09 at 07:26 PM |
|
|
was thinking it might be that, do u perhaps think I need more weight on the front?I've never weighed it yet
Description
|
|
cloudy
|
posted on 9/2/09 at 08:55 PM |
|
|
I don't think it's that - mine's fine and it's only about 55kg on each wheel....
Any suspension guru's about?
James
www.warnercars.com
|
|
Greg_OR
|
posted on 10/2/09 at 03:00 AM |
|
|
Have you checked rear diff? on the video it seems that front is pushed straight by 100% closed differential. Just lift one rear wheel and try to
rotate it.
Just a guess as I'm not susp guru anyway.
----------
BTW First post so... hi everybody, I hope to finish planning some day
|
|
cloudy
|
posted on 10/2/09 at 09:05 AM |
|
|
good call - it's possible
www.warnercars.com
|
|
cheapracer
|
posted on 16/2/09 at 08:20 AM |
|
|
Although vids can be decieving, from looking at your video frozen at 0.52 seconds and the push, I would suggest you have reverse ackerman steering.
Post a few pics of the front end for me with the wheels off (plan view would be good directly above 1 of the uprights) and we'll have a look.
It's coming....
|
|
cheapracer
|
posted on 16/2/09 at 08:24 AM |
|
|
quote: Will it be a problem if I mount it vertical, like this?
A mechanic told me that the cooling fluids wont flow properly through the radiator, instead, the fluids will take a shortcut and just flow across the
top tank.
Wot do u guys think?
Yes I'm late to the party.....
It's not an issue not even a little bit, get a new mechanic!
It's coming....
|
|
Gakes
|
posted on 16/2/09 at 03:32 PM |
|
|
I think i found the problem, instead of having reverse ackerman, I have too much of an ackerman angle probably. I should be within 4 to 6 degrees of
steering axis but I'm rolling on about 11degrees (looking from the side profile). I measured out all the angles and found out that when I
changed my suspension design from bushes to rod-ends, I miscalculated the hinge centres and now I'm out by a couple of mm's.
Its not too much of a loss as i want to extend my track by 40-50mm on each end
|
|
cheapracer
|
posted on 17/2/09 at 11:06 AM |
|
|
Nah, maybe it's an optical illusion but I swear at 51 and 52 seconds your inside tyre isn't turning anywhere near as much as the outside
is and that would explain your phenomenemenenen (can anyone actually spell that?).
It's coming....
|
|
cheapracer
|
posted on 17/2/09 at 11:10 AM |
|
|
..and middy locost builders please note, the VDub motor (Golf, Jetta) has the inlet manifold to the front and exhaust to the rear - handy arrangement.
It's coming....
|
|
Gakes
|
posted on 24/2/09 at 05:29 PM |
|
|
Thats for 16valve VW engines, 8valve VW engines have the inlet and outlet at the rear, but the inlet sits above the exhaust outlet. For this reason,
water is channeled from the radiator/heater pipes into the inlet to cool it down,bcoz its above the exhaust outlet.....just by the way
Description
|
|
cheapracer
|
posted on 25/2/09 at 12:08 PM |
|
|
quote: Originally posted by Gakes
Thats for 16valve VW engines, 8valve VW engines have the inlet and outlet at the rear, but the inlet sits above the exhaust outlet. For this reason,
water is channeled from the radiator/heater pipes into the inlet to cool it down,bcoz its above the exhaust outlet.....just by the way
......and by the way, all the 1.6 and 1.8 SOHC engines here all are inlet front and exhaust rear! So i guess it comes down to checking your local
source :-)
It's coming....
|
|
Gakes
|
posted on 6/3/09 at 09:34 AM |
|
|
Hi all,
Did some revision changes to my plans to make the build easier and cheaper.
So now I'm selling them at 350U$ dollars if anynone is interested. Visit
http://sites.google.com/site/xocars/ for info or ccontact me xosportscars@gmail.com
Follow threadForum thread
[Edited on 6/3/09 by Gakes]
Description
|
|
designer
|
posted on 23/3/09 at 10:55 PM |
|
|
I think the wheelbase is 25 to 30 cm too long.
|
|
Gakes
|
posted on 1/4/09 at 09:03 PM |
|
|
Hi Designer. Why would you say that??
I had to remove my cylinder head, I bypass the heater pipe section and the water pipe to cool the intake loaded the the engine with water, bugger.
Then when I repaired every thing, I cracked the cam holder mounts in the head. Been a rough few weeks but bought a new head for about 20 Pounds and
fitted a 268 degree cam and a Weber downdraught. will be starting up tomorrow morning.
And I widened the front track, and busy with the new rear suspension and pedal box.
[Edited on 1/4/09 by Gakes]
Description
|
|
designer
|
posted on 2/4/09 at 07:58 AM |
|
|
Hi
If you look at the lower picture (side view) of your initial post, there would seem to be a long way from the soles of the drivers feet to the front
suspension.
Probably, floor mounted pedals will be used and I would seem that it will be difficult to solidly mount them without having a very solid, thicker than
necessay, floor, whereas pedal sets are usually braced to a bulkhead.
This is only my opinion of course.
Otherwise, you are doing a good job.
|
|
Gakes
|
posted on 2/4/09 at 07:20 PM |
|
|
I was concerned that there was going to be too little space for extra bits I wanted to add and maybe wanted to mount a fuel cell in front.
I made my center console today, will fit it in tomorrow.
|
|
cheapracer
|
posted on 11/4/09 at 03:38 PM |
|
|
Great to see your still into it Gakes, good luck hope you take some of the local hints for what it is - constructive hints!
It's coming....
|
|
Gakes
|
posted on 13/4/09 at 08:44 AM |
|
|
For sure.Heres some update pics, new front suspension and tunnel in. The car sits much better and turns well:
Description
|
|
cheapracer
|
posted on 13/4/09 at 12:42 PM |
|
|
Ok, the shape/style your trying to get to is becoming clearer and more interesing.
Mate a little more constuctive hinting.
Your lower control Aarms, I see no reason at all why they aren't simple triangles? I see the top Aarm you are trying to clear the shocker, fair
enough and there is lower loading there but the lower Aarms....???
Please tell me those top Aarm bolts through the upright are just there for the pictures!! Being something of a graphic artist, I just spent a full day
on illustrating one way you should consider doing the higher mount you have using a turned cone (be warned, the following drawing is copyrighted and
copying or usage, even personal, anywhere will be considered serious and legal action may be pursued).
It's coming....
|
|
Gakes
|
posted on 13/4/09 at 05:01 PM |
|
|
Its always welcome
As illustrated in my highly detailed drawing, for my lower control arm, the crossed section at A, circled in red, gives a bit more reinforcing
strength to the wishbone and increases strength for the lower shock mount.
And, in the exploded view, you will see i have a tapered machined part that fits into the upper swivel hole of the upright.
Rescued attachment 132.jpg
Description
|
|