markyb
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| posted on 10/4/08 at 11:05 PM |
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R1 oil pressure
Having read numerous threads ref getting a reading for oil pressure I am looking at getting a sandwich plate for the oil filter and getting the
reading from their.
I want to check I am doing the right thing before commiting the cash.
Would this
link
do the job along with any electrical oil pressure guage and sender ? would I need anything else ?
Also is m20 x 1.5 the correct thread for for the sandwich plate on an 03 R1 ?
In case it makes a difference I am not running an oil cooler
cheers
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adithorp
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| posted on 10/4/08 at 11:39 PM |
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I took mine off the main gallery end plug (one each end) as thats where Yamaha test it. Very easy to do as well, though I can't remember the
thread size.
adrian
[Edited on 10/4/08 by adithorp]
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nitram38
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| posted on 11/4/08 at 07:21 AM |
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As said, it will be easier and probably cheaper to tap the oil gallery plug or the centre bolt on the oil cooler.
I am going to get a new gallery plug made as the existing aluminium one looks a bit thin where the allen key goes in.
I would have used the oil cooler bolt, but because of my rear engine and exhaust, it will be easier from the side of it.
I have asked before, but does anyone know what the actual pressure is at idle?
I have been told it is around 10 psi. I know the manual says to test at 5000 rpm and it should be 32.5 psi.
I am going to fit a pressure switch too.
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lsdweb
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| posted on 11/4/08 at 08:01 AM |
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markyb
Which engine is it?
I've fitted oil pressure sensors to a 4XV (drilled oil cooler bolt) and to my current 5VY (adaptor into the oil gallery). A sandwich plate just
complicates things, and adds weight!
Wyn
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stuart_g
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| posted on 11/4/08 at 08:01 AM |
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I have mine on the oil cooler bolt. I am using Reacetech pressure sender and gauge. Bolt needs to be tapped for 10x1 thread.
I have been told that the pressure senders can fail when mounted direct to the engine through vibrations so I plan to get a steel braded flexi and
mount it remote on the chassis somewhere. I don't know if anyone else has experienced this.
Here's a pic of it now.
 
Rescued attachment Oil pressure sender.JPG
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motorcycle_mayhem
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| posted on 11/4/08 at 08:37 AM |
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I don't have an R1, I have a Suzuki, but they're the same in one respect - there's a gallery plug that you can drill and tap. This
is what you want to do.
You then need a Racetech gauge and sender unit, and teeth to grit as you look at the (very accurate) readings through the corners...
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markyb
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| posted on 11/4/08 at 10:21 AM |
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thanks for the info everyone - I have never done a tap before and didnt want cutting into my engine to be my first time !!!
That was why I was looking at the sandwich plate option (plus the ease of installation)
Having looked at the pic that Stuart_g has put up I am wondering would a sandwich plate foul the pipe to the left of the oil filter.
Has anyone any pics of a sandwich plate in place ? Surely I am not the only one too afraid to drill to fit a sensor ?
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nitram38
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| posted on 11/4/08 at 11:30 AM |
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Just remove the bolt from the oil cooler and get a local engineer to drill/tap it.
It is easy to get a new bolt if things go wrong.
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Bob C
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| posted on 11/4/08 at 11:41 AM |
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I have same as stuart-g
still OK after a year & 500 miles...
Bob
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markyb
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| posted on 11/4/08 at 11:49 AM |
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Nitram38 - I like the sound of someone else doing it !!! and would still be cheaper than a sandwich plate
will go away and look at that option
a bit o/t but anyone have any recommendations for buying R1 parts online - I did try the local bike place a few days ago but 'the computer
has been down all day' so their world stopped spinning
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nitram38
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| posted on 11/4/08 at 12:45 PM |
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I need to do mine soon, but I plan on replacing the main oil gallery cap with a tapped brass adapter. I stuck a caliper on the original and it is
15.91mm so is probably a 16mm thread?
I am going to do a search on ebay etc before I have one made.
I'll let you know what I find.
If not I will get one or two made if you are interested?
Obviously I will go with the cheapest option.
I do have a brass adapter which seems to be the same tread pitch but only screws in about 3 threads. I don't want to wind it too tight as
aluminium castings tend to crack and I can do with out a weld repair!
I am not sure if the thread on adapters are tapered?
I was wondering if a bit of pumbers tape would do it?
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adithorp
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| posted on 11/4/08 at 02:07 PM |
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Rally d and Europa do them or Durite part No 0-523-98 is a set of 3. 1/8npt M14 M16 M18 all x1.5
adrian
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nitram38
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| posted on 11/4/08 at 02:37 PM |
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Originally, I was going to fit an oil pressure switch, but reading on here and other sites, the pressure drops to about 6 psi at idle (32.5 psi @
5000rpm).
Having a warning switch so low is probably why the R1 does not bother having one.
The R1 oil light works off the oil level switch.
Since that is the case, I will have to do the same and rely on my capilary gauge.
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TimC
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| posted on 11/4/08 at 04:44 PM |
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For this:
.JPG)
See this!
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lsdweb
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| posted on 11/4/08 at 07:11 PM |
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Oil temperature sender in sump and oil pressure sender, on end of braided hose tapped into blank in end of gallery.
Here.
And what I did on the 4XV here.
Wyn
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 (WinCE).JPG)
