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Author: Subject: R1 Sump Chop, now with picture's
welderman

posted on 10/4/08 at 11:09 AM Reply With Quote
R1 Sump Chop, now with picture's

Anyone done there own sump chop, thinking of doing my own, any issuse doing this, ie pick up pipe, baffle etc.
Any info welcome.

Or can you buy sumps already made smaller?

[Edited on 10/4/08 by welderman]





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nitram38

posted on 10/4/08 at 11:25 AM Reply With Quote
Why do you want to chop it?
It isn't very deep as it is.






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hobbsy

posted on 10/4/08 at 11:35 AM Reply With Quote
Which R1 engine do you have?

The 4XV sump holds less oil than the 5PW so I'm guessing it shallower?

Only really helps if you've got a 4XV.

However as in the previous post (other than ground clearance) why would you want to do it? People often go the other way to increase the oil capacity.

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smart51

posted on 10/4/08 at 11:36 AM Reply With Quote
You will reduce the oil capacity if you cut the sump. Its a bit lower than I would like as it is. You would probably have to dry sump it if you cut it.

You would need to shorten the pickup pipe, or plumb it to your dry sump system. You'd need to shorten the drain tubes too.

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TimC

posted on 10/4/08 at 11:45 AM Reply With Quote
Agreed, the R1 sump is shallow!






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welderman

posted on 10/4/08 at 12:35 PM Reply With Quote
it's an option im thinking of doing, as ive no wheels for my Fury yet, it looks low now and im sure the engine sits too low, approx 60mm from bottom chassie rail at the moment. I re-made the mounts to allow the sump to sit flat as it was intended in a bike too.
R1 2003 fi engine.
Will nip downstairs and take a picture.





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welderman

posted on 10/4/08 at 12:38 PM Reply With Quote
1 Rescued attachment Image249.jpg
Rescued attachment Image249.jpg






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welderman

posted on 10/4/08 at 12:39 PM Reply With Quote
2 Rescued attachment Image250.jpg
Rescued attachment Image250.jpg






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welderman

posted on 10/4/08 at 12:39 PM Reply With Quote
3 Rescued attachment Image251.jpg
Rescued attachment Image251.jpg






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nitram38

posted on 10/4/08 at 01:41 PM Reply With Quote
Even a dry sump will stick out on that!
You need to raise your engine.






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bassett

posted on 10/4/08 at 02:03 PM Reply With Quote
Having taken my 5PW sump off at the weekend i personally wouldnt as would be a heap of unecessary work when its surely easier to raise the engine mounts, although you might need a bonnet vent.
Adam





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andy o

posted on 10/4/08 at 02:31 PM Reply With Quote
i was told that the join between sump and block should be level,not the bottom of the sump!hope i've been told right for my sake and wrong for yours!anybody know which is right?mines a 5vy by the way
andy

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welderman

posted on 10/4/08 at 02:31 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by nitram38
Even a dry sump will stick out on that!
You need to raise your engine.


that will do me, rase engine it is





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Minicooper

posted on 10/4/08 at 03:53 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by andy o
i was told that the join between sump and block should be level,not the bottom of the sump!hope i've been told right for my sake and wrong for yours!anybody know which is right?mines a 5vy by the way
andy


The bottom of the sump should be level as Welderman has it, but I have seen a few cars that run with the joint level and as far as I'm aware no problems

Cheers
David

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nitram38

posted on 10/4/08 at 04:01 PM Reply With Quote
I have a few R1 sump baffles for sale which fit 04-07 engines. u2u me.






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ChrisGamlin

posted on 10/4/08 at 09:20 PM Reply With Quote
The R1 sump is very difficult to chop anyway, not because of the sump itself but because of the pickup design which is very difficult to shorten without serious amounts of work, coming down from the block at an angle rather than vertically like most pickup pipes do.






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adithorp

posted on 10/4/08 at 09:57 PM Reply With Quote
The Kit Car Workshop used to recommend having the seam between the sump and engine level with the bottom of the chassis. Mine is slightly higher than this (not much). Without measuring I'd say 40mm (I'll check tommorow) giving me about 100mm ground clearence. There's a couple of down sides to this.

First is that the engine is leaning over backwards a little compared to the bike fitment. Opinion seems to be split on this but personally don't see it as a problem. After all the bike doesn't sieze up going up hill or pulling wheelies. From what I hear the bikes spend most of thier lives with the front wheel in the air!

Secondly the drain plug isn't at the bottom; I plan to get hold of a second sump and have the drain moved at some point....

I tried getting it in with the sump base level but it wouldn't work. It was too high (at the throttle bodies) and the exhaust didn't clear the chassis rail.

adrian

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welderman

posted on 11/4/08 at 12:18 AM Reply With Quote
thanks for the comments, and Adrian get your tyape out tomorrow,





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welderman

posted on 11/4/08 at 12:21 AM Reply With Quote
it sits 25mm below the chassie rail now, but sat on ally blocks Rescued attachment Image259.jpg
Rescued attachment Image259.jpg






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welderman

posted on 11/4/08 at 12:22 AM Reply With Quote
blocks and bed time too

[Edited on 11/4/08 by welderman] Rescued attachment Image258.jpg
Rescued attachment Image258.jpg






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PAUL FISHER

posted on 11/4/08 at 12:41 AM Reply With Quote
Have you been out with the brasso Joe,polishing all them pipes,nuts and bolts,looks more like a steam engine than a bike engine
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welderman

posted on 11/4/08 at 06:45 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by PAUL FISHER
Have you been out with the brasso Joe,polishing all them pipes,nuts and bolts,looks more like a steam engine than a bike engine


Paul the engine is a brand new, 2003 R1..
It's looking dirty now ive had it a few months.





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