StevieB
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| posted on 27/8/07 at 10:01 AM |
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R1 Plumbing (again)
Mornin' all!
I have a diagram of how to plumb my R1 engine, and have half managed to complete it using copper central heating pipe.
Is there anywhere that would be able to do me a kit?
The problem I'm having is finsing the right t-piece to go here:
[Edited on 27/8/07 by StevieB]
 
Rescued attachment R1 Plumbing.JPG
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iiyama
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| posted on 27/8/07 at 10:06 AM |
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If you used copper, why not use copper fittings to make the T's required??
T's are readily available in 8,10,15,22,28,35. Can also get reducing T's. ie 22,22,15 where 15 is the leg of the T. or 22,15,22 where 22
is the leg etc etc.
Ian
If its broke, fix it. If it aint broke, take it apart and find out how it works!
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StevieB
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| posted on 27/8/07 at 10:13 AM |
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That was my original plan, but I can't find a t-piece that goes 28mm to 9mm.
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 27/8/07 at 10:46 AM |
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Could you not get a 28mm T that reduces as much as possible (maybe 28 to 15) then get a straight reducer that goes from 15 to 9mm ?
Are you sure its as small as 9mm though, I thought that one (on my 2003 engine anyway) was nearer 13mm from memory, but may be wrong.
Glad the diagram is helping though 
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Peteff
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| posted on 27/8/07 at 11:05 AM |
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That's what I've used on the ZX9 but mine was a 22x15 unequal T and straight reducer from 15 to 8 with a bit of pipe soldered into it for
more grip.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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iiyama
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| posted on 27/8/07 at 11:14 AM |
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wont get copper in 9mm.8 or 10 only in the UK.
assuming the header is where you want 9mm then you need a 28,28,15 T and a 15 to 10mm fitting reducer. Job done! 
[Edited on 27/8/07 by iiyama]
If its broke, fix it. If it aint broke, take it apart and find out how it works!
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gezer
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| posted on 27/8/07 at 12:04 PM |
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are you sure it's 9 ? as post above normal is 8 or 10,
try B&Q or any plumbers suppies for T pieces and reducers,
look in your yellow pages,
I'm to old to live and to young to die --- buggerit
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StevieB
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| posted on 27/8/07 at 12:13 PM |
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I meant 9ish (rough guess)
Cheers guys - I'll go back to B&Q and get some bits and bobs - at least I get to mess with the sarcastic plumbing assistant again
Last time he saw me looking for a while and came up with the 'you're obviously lost and don't know what you're looking
for', to which the reply was 'yes, can you tell me which fittings I need to plumb an R1 engine'. Conversation over
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nitram38
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| posted on 27/8/07 at 12:29 PM |
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I am going to do all of mine in aluminium as my rad and block are ali too.
I don't like using different metals, even with anti-freeze. Not sure about electrolysis occuring.
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StevieB
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| posted on 27/8/07 at 01:13 PM |
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I plan to use ali and silicone hoses eventually as an upgrade, but at the moment it's a case of just getting it on the road for now.
Just been to B&Q, bought the parts and done half of the remaining work already - looks a bit daft, and not sure about the seals I've got (I
got the pre-soldered stuff and used a blow torch). I'm thinking that I could use some self amalgamating tape to fix any leaks (if and when they
happen)?
Cheers to all for the advice.
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StevieB
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| posted on 27/8/07 at 02:00 PM |
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I think there certainly would be a market for a budget kit - there are a couple of places who will sell the kit, but it comes at a premium
(£130ish).
I don't know how cheap it could be made for though.
I do plan to upgrade to ali/silicone hoses later on and will probably have the same problem then in terms of getting just the right joints and
junctions put together.
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worX
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| posted on 27/8/07 at 02:30 PM |
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Is all the water pump and internals, aluminium aswell then?
Steve
quote:
Originally posted by nitram38
I am going to do all of mine in aluminium as my rad and block are ali too.
I don't like using different metals, even with anti-freeze. Not sure about electrolysis occuring.
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adithorp
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| posted on 27/8/07 at 03:53 PM |
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I've used 22mm and 15mm on mine with pre-soldered connecting T's and strieght conectors on the ends to give a ridge for the hoses to grip.
I also Tee'd an air bleed in the return pipe as it had a potential air lock.
Hope these pictures help.
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z282/adrianthorp/Picture009.jpg
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z282/adrianthorp/Picture008.jpg
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z282/adrianthorp/Picture011.jpg
Adrian
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chockymonster
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| posted on 27/8/07 at 03:57 PM |
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I plumbed mine up slightly differently.
http://vortx.chockymonster.co.uk/images/zoom/July14/cooling.jpg
The bottom hose has no tee, the top tee was made for me, it reduces the top hose from a 32mm to a 28 and tees out to a 13mm for the oil cooler.
It was knocked up for me by a guy on ebay, cater7man on ebay.
PLEASE NOTE - Responses on Forum Threads may contain Sarcasm and may not be suitable for the hard of Thinking.
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StevieB
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| posted on 27/8/07 at 08:07 PM |
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That looks a lot simpler, though I have a small, third outlet on my rad that'll go to the expansion tank. Maybe I could blank it off and use
the simpler arrangement?
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TimC
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| posted on 27/8/07 at 08:11 PM |
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For what it's worth, I'm using Paul's method.
[Edited on 27/8/07 by TimC]
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 27/8/07 at 09:06 PM |
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Chokymonster, doesnt that take an age to fill though, as from what I can work out your header tank is feeding into two small 6mm hoses, one into the
thermostat, the other into the small pipe on the back of the wate pump, which goes up to the throttle bodies on mine to feed water into the automatic
"choke" so it can adjust accordingly when the coolant is cold. Im not sure if this is the same on the carbed engine?
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