Alez
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 posted on 28/6/05 at 07:51 AM |
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Inners of my clutch
Been breaking more stuff inside my clutch..
There's this inner basket which takes the 5 bolts for the springs. This basket is fastened to the big shaft which goes to the gearbox, via a big
retaining nut. The nut is locked in place with some "stake" (according to the Haynes manual). I don't know what this stake is but now
it's very important for me to know because I took the nut off, breaking any stakes. Result, the big threaded shaft is nice and clean with no
stakes (takes a new nut smoothly), and the old nut was damaged when I took it off.
Can you take a look at the pics and tell me how in big sh1t am I? Will I need to replace the big shaft or what?
Cheers,
Alex
 
Rescued attachment shaft.jpg
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Alez
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| posted on 28/6/05 at 07:51 AM |
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Damaged nut..
 
Rescued attachment nut1.jpg
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Alez
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| posted on 28/6/05 at 07:51 AM |
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Another view..
 
Rescued attachment nut2.jpg
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Petemate
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| posted on 28/6/05 at 08:11 AM |
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Hi Alez
As far as I can recall, this is the normal method on Jap bikes of retaining the nuts for the clutch. The shaft is hardened, and the
"stake" area, i.e. the collar which you stake into the groove, is mild steel. Therefore when removing the nut, virtually no damage is done
to the threads, and you can fit a new nut and stake it as before. Same method is used on, for instance, the drive shaft outer nut on most Escort
variants. I always dig out as much as possible of the deformed collars in these applications to reduce the chance of any damage, but have never
encountered damaged threads on the shafts over the years.
HTH
Petemate
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Peteff
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| posted on 28/6/05 at 08:13 AM |
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The stake is the locking mechanism on your nut Alez. It's best to tap it out with a punch (screwdriver  ). If you use a new nut you tap the
thin edge into the cutout on the shaft to lock it. You shaft looks fine.
 
Rescued attachment nut1.jpg
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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Alez
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| posted on 28/6/05 at 08:20 AM |
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The way I feel after reading your posts can't be explained with words (and I'm not exaggerating, honest). I was having nightmares about
dismantling my gearbox.
Cheers,
Alex
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 28/6/05 at 10:27 AM |
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All looks fine to me too Alex, just get yourself another nut from the Honda dealer 
As Nick Ross always says, don't have nightmares, do sleep well! 
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Alez
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| posted on 28/6/05 at 10:31 AM |
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Cheers Chris, I got the new nut already and goes very smoothly (by hand) into the shaft so I've not damaged the shaft thread at all!
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tks
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| posted on 28/6/05 at 12:39 PM |
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was thinking the same
just replace nut...
oil axle an bit with engine oil..and put it on..
then carefully slam the nut into the pos for it..and it cant go anywhere...
Tks
The above comments are always meant to be from the above persons perspective.
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Alez
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| posted on 28/6/05 at 12:44 PM |
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Thank you Walter!
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tks
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| posted on 28/6/05 at 12:45 PM |
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de nada
Senor Alex
The above comments are always meant to be from the above persons perspective.
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tks
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| posted on 28/6/05 at 07:12 PM |
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Alez
want to tell you that for
putting the new springs on you will need an special tool?
because they need to be tightened by an wrench wich you can adjust on his torque..
offcourse the bikeshop does have them?
to buy them they are expensive and you need to store them on 0 Newtons..
Tks
The above comments are always meant to be from the above persons perspective.
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Alez
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| posted on 29/6/05 at 08:37 AM |
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I don't have such tool But I now understand how important it is: the reason why I had to take the big nut off is because one of those 5 bolts
BROKE while I was tightening it. Still I should be using a normal tool again as I don't have an alternative
Cheers,
Alex
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tks
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| posted on 29/6/05 at 05:16 PM |
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Alez, Watchout!!
Guys are those bolts tightened to an stop? or are they 'flying' and is the torque process only for the amount of pre spring force??
Tks
alez if they are flying you need an torquewrench, if not you could do it by the way you did but then more carefull!
its impossible that an bolt wich compresses an spring will undo...
The above comments are always meant to be from the above persons perspective.
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 29/6/05 at 10:07 PM |
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They bolt down to a stop, just not very tightly as they are going into ally
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Alez
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| posted on 30/6/05 at 07:19 AM |
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Thank you guys. So what happened is I just continued tightening them up past the stop
Anyway, it's almost finished now, I'm posting a few more pics.
Cheers,
Alex
Washers for the (big) locking nut, I took this pics because one of the washers looks quite dark and blue. I have fitted them back anyway..
 
Rescued attachment washers1.jpg
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Alez
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| posted on 30/6/05 at 07:20 AM |
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Washers..
 
Rescued attachment washers2.jpg
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Alez
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| posted on 30/6/05 at 07:22 AM |
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New locking nut, fitted & punched. I'm posting this so you let me know if the punching looks good to you..
 
Rescued attachment new_nut_installed1.jpg
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Alez
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| posted on 30/6/05 at 07:23 AM |
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New nut:
 
Rescued attachment new_nut_installed2.jpg
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Alez
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| posted on 30/6/05 at 07:25 AM |
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Punch!!
 
Rescued attachment punched_nut.jpg
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Alez
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| posted on 30/6/05 at 07:31 AM |
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BTW I have just ordered one of these torque adjusting tools (whatever their name is, sorry!) They ARE expensive but I don't want the same
sh** happening again (or the opposite, a loose nut is not good either!).
So I should not use it for the 5 pressure plate bolts, but I guess I'll be using it for the many bolts of the outer cover (the one with the
gasket).
Cheers,
Alex
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sebastiaan
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 posted on 30/6/05 at 07:50 AM |
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punch
Alez,
The nut looks to be punched Ok.
Cheers,
Sebastiaan
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Alez
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| posted on 30/6/05 at 12:02 PM |
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Thank you Sebastiaan. I was not too sure because the old one looks like it was punched more heavily but I haven't been unable to warp it more
than that. I'm sure it will do!
Cheers,
Alex
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tks
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| posted on 30/6/05 at 06:31 PM |
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punching..
You need to deform it that way
that it cant pass by the edge of the shaft
its that easy...
but if you torqueed the big nut up to the hayness amount..(or bloody much) then you sure are ok....
if the hayness states 25N/m then it is by hand tigtened up...
if it states 300N/M then you need an 1 metere bar to do the job?
(its just for some feeling of how much is stated for the aplication....)
you could also compare values..Alez
between oilfilter (done by hand)
- engine support bolt
- schok bolt
etc.
Tks
The above comments are always meant to be from the above persons perspective.
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Alez
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| posted on 4/7/05 at 09:28 AM |
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Thank you so much for all your posts. Clutch now repaired, just in time for a track day yesterday which was fantastic. I experienced no slip
whatsoever.
Cheers,
Alex
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