DODGEY RODGERS
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| posted on 28/12/12 at 04:09 PM |
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Advise about barnett clutch conversion on R1 ?
Hi everyone,
I just purchased a MK INDY R1( tunned and carb'ed ) and swiftly done the clutch in after about 500 hard miles and am interested in replacing
this with a barnett jobie. Has anyone got any advice about this as the standard one tended to slip a lot especially after I changed the oil to full
synthetic and now it permantley slips ( wet clutch on a 2003 engine ). Im prepaired to purchase complete conversion kit but am unsure whether to fit
all long springs or alternate short-long or even long with washers? I have herd lots of stories regarding this but nothing concrete, can anyone help
me. I only managed to take it out a couple of times before weather changed so am hopping to get this sorted ready for easter fun along with a few
other issues Im having.....
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Wheels244
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| posted on 28/12/12 at 05:19 PM |
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This might help
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=161334
I would stick to semi synthetic oil if I was you - fully synthetic induces clutch slip.
I used all 6 race springs - black if I remember correctly
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sdh2903
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| posted on 28/12/12 at 05:32 PM |
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I have carbed r1, standard clutch and Barnett springs, the race ones. I used semi synth with no problems at all, no slip even with spirited launching.
Great pedal feel and easy to control around town.
There have also been some people using silkolene oils with clutch slipping problems.
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DODGEY RODGERS
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| posted on 28/12/12 at 05:51 PM |
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Thankyou for the help I think I will fit complete barnett conversion using all the race springs and change the oil back to semi then .
Have you ever had any problems with rev gauge going crazy on its own ? mine is standard R1 dial and just flicks straight around on its own ????
Measure twice, cut once ....
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sdh2903
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| posted on 28/12/12 at 05:55 PM |
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Sorry I use a stack dash so can't help you there but I'm sure someone will be along to help.
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Wheels244
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| posted on 28/12/12 at 06:21 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by DODGEY RODGERS
Thankyou for the help I think I will fit complete barnett conversion using all the race springs and change the oil back to semi then .
Have you ever had any problems with rev gauge going crazy on its own ? mine is standard R1 dial and just flicks straight around on its own ????
Is this with the engine running ? These could be fault codes - what revs is it going to ?
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DODGEY RODGERS
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| posted on 28/12/12 at 06:40 PM |
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Engine running and it's just the needle flicking right around and back again. Sometimes it goes back to correct position but only shortly?
Measure twice, cut once ....
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Wheels244
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| posted on 28/12/12 at 07:51 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by DODGEY RODGERS
Engine running and it's just the needle flicking right around and back again. Sometimes it goes back to correct position but only shortly?
Copied this off another forum - is it doing any of this ?
Diagnostics, Troubleshooting 1 The tach jumping to 8k then dying means there is a problem with the fuel light (fuel low indicator) connector. Lift the
tank and check the green connector to make sure it is plugged in. Yamaha rep told me that the R1 has a self-diagnostic tach. 6k is exup problems 7k is
ignition problems and 8k is with the fuel system.
2 Tachometer trouble shooting:
Tach jump to 3000rpm: = faulty circuit:tps (throttle position sensor)
Tach jump to 7000rpm: faulty circuit: exup valve
Tach jump to 8000rpm: faulty circuit: fuel level indicator
If some trouble should occur in any of these circuits, the tach will repeatedly display as follows: 0 rpm for 3 seconds->specified problem (rpm)
for 2.5 seconds->current engine rpm for 3 seconds->repeat.
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DODGEY RODGERS
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| posted on 29/12/12 at 11:16 AM |
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Great ! Will unwrap the car over the weekend and have a little tinkle and make a note of the rpm. Thanks again and what a great forum.....
Measure twice, cut once ....
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DODGEY RODGERS
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| posted on 29/12/12 at 01:06 PM |
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Just came out the garage and yes its going to 7000rpm and doing the whole 0rpm 3 second thing ext ext .
Next question is WHAT IS EXUP VALVE ? As you can tell Im no mechanic but have spare time and Im patient ..... what do I do now and what will I need?
And what do I need to order ?
Measure twice, cut once ....
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sdh2903
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| posted on 29/12/12 at 01:54 PM |
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Exup valve is a flap within the exhaust system on the bike. Opens at certain rpms. As you don't use this on the kit you either have to have an
exup motor attached or trick the ecu into thinking it's there. If you Google exup delete you can buy a unit which plugs in or you may be able to
find a guide to make one yourself.
You could always look for a second hand valve and just plug it in, but as the valve fails quite often when used on the bike second hand ones are
pretty scarce and are quite a few quid.
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gaz_gaz
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| posted on 29/12/12 at 01:59 PM |
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I had the same problem with the rev counter.
I just swapped the tacho feed to a coil instead of being fed from the cdi wire.
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sdh2903
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| posted on 29/12/12 at 02:01 PM |
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If you have a carbed motor you need one of these:
Yamaha YZF R1 4XV 5JJ EXUP SERVO MOTOR 
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Wheels244
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| posted on 29/12/12 at 02:27 PM |
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If your engine is a 2003 it is a 5PW ( same as mine was ) and fuel injected.
I just plugged the EXUP motor into it's plug and made a bracket for it out of the way in the engine compartment - I'll see if I can find a
picture.
Rob
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Wheels244
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| posted on 29/12/12 at 02:37 PM |
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Here you go - mounted on the aluminium bracket in the middle.
 
Exup mounting
Two for sale on ebay
YAMAHA R1 2004 5PW EXUP VALVE SERVO UNIT
YAMAHA YZF R1 5PW 2003-2005 EXUP EXHAUST VALVE SERVO MOTOR
and a picture of the my Barnett Clutch Conversion - much shinyness
 
Barnett conversion
Rob
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DODGEY RODGERS
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| posted on 29/12/12 at 03:26 PM |
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Excellent, yes its a carbed engine 2001 not as said earlier a 2003 sorry. Ok then Ill go back out there tomorrow and see whats been fitted
previously as regards to the exup valve before I buy anything , and Wheels244 Im ordering one straight away just looking at it makes me want
one.....were was the cheapest complete conversion kit from ? ( Ive seen some on flee-bay for around £270 )
Measure twice, cut once ....
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gaz_gaz
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| posted on 29/12/12 at 03:27 PM |
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Does anyone know if there is any truth that the ignition map is effected when the exup fault is active?
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ReMan
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| posted on 29/12/12 at 03:41 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Wheels244
Here you go - mounted on the aluminium bracket in the middle.
Exup mounting
Two for sale on ebay
YAMAHA R1 2004 5PW EXUP VALVE SERVO UNIT
YAMAHA YZF R1 5PW 2003-2005 EXUP EXHAUST VALVE SERVO MOTOR
and a picture of the my Barnett Clutch Conversion - much shinyness
Barnett conversion
Rob
Very nice.
Is that it though, just the top cover plate (and springs presumably)?
www.plusnine.co.uk
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sdh2903
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| posted on 29/12/12 at 04:19 PM |
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If you want the full kit, springs, pressure plates, and steels then you need this:
BARNETT CLUTCH COMPONENT KIT YAMAHA R1 1998 - 2003
If your steels are ok I would go for this pressure plate and springs:
BARNETT CLUTCH SPRING CONVERSION KIT - YAMAHA R1 98-03
Then just use oem friction plates such as:
Yamaha YZF R1 ''99 - ''03 EBC Heavy Duty Clutch Kit
Remember to soak the frictions in oil for a couple days before fitting. You can get the spring kits a bit cheaper from the states but by the time you
get stung for import duty and the time it takes I couldnt be arsed and ordered the ones from Jays on ebay.
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Wheels244
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| posted on 29/12/12 at 04:31 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by sdh2903
If you want the full kit, springs, pressure plates, and steels then you need this:
BARNETT CLUTCH COMPONENT KIT YAMAHA R1 1998 - 2003
If your steels are ok I would go for this pressure plate and springs:
BARNETT CLUTCH SPRING CONVERSION KIT - YAMAHA R1 98-03
Then just use oem friction plates such as:
Yamaha YZF R1 ''99 - ''03 EBC Heavy Duty Clutch Kit
Remember to soak the frictions in oil for a couple days before fitting. You can get the spring kits a bit cheaper from the states but by the time you
get stung for import duty and the time it takes I couldnt be arsed and ordered the ones from Jays on ebay.
+1
I would definitely stick with OE friction plates and semi synthetic oil.
And yes, that's all you get in the conversion kit - bolts to existing clutch basket.
Rob
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DODGEY RODGERS
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| posted on 30/12/12 at 04:33 PM |
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will stick with OE plates then and semi......
just took a look and it appears that I don't have a exup valve not that I can see anywhere near the exhaust or around throttle cable anywhere ?
But have found what looks like a white home made box connected to a bracket next to my Regulator/rectifier ? Ill try to show on photo if I can work
out how top put photos on this reply.....
/Users/waynerodgers/Pictures/iPhoto Library/Masters/2012/12/30/20121230-162649/IMG_1123.JPG
/Users/waynerodgers/Pictures/iPhoto Library/Masters/2012/12/30/20121230-162700/IMG_1122.JPG
/Users/waynerodgers/Pictures/iPhoto Library/Masters/2012/12/30/20121230-162634/IMG_1124.JPG
Measure twice, cut once ....
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DODGEY RODGERS
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 posted on 30/12/12 at 06:45 PM |
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have not managed to add photos as you can see but could add them to my archive if it helps .......
Measure twice, cut once ....
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sdh2903
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| posted on 30/12/12 at 08:30 PM |
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Not sure what that is but it ain't anything to do with the exup as the plugs are different, the exup has a white plug and small green plug as
you can see on the one on eBay It doesn't have to be in any particular location near exhaust etc mine is fixed to a chassis member up front out
of the way. it's just a 3" or so squarish black lump.
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